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Question about changing cam seals on 98 with VVT-i

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Old 05-16-14, 04:33 PM   #61
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Sorry I mean the front bearing cap....the last thing holding down the cam...
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Old 05-16-14, 04:35 PM   #62
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Also....my throttle body was dirty like that too....if you clean it up then the car will idle better and smoother. I used steel wool and long screwdriver and some throttle body cleaner..
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Old 05-16-14, 04:53 PM   #63
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I actually used some carb cleaner even though they say don't use it because That's the only thing I had around. The other front bearing cap came off easily Though. I'm thinking of just taking the intake cam out and leading the exhaust one in there tomorrow.
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Old 05-16-14, 06:22 PM   #64
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isn't the intake cam the only one that needs removal for the new seal? the exhaust cam is internal.
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Old 05-16-14, 08:47 PM   #65
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Quote:
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isn't the intake cam the only one that needs removal for the new seal? the exhaust cam is internal.
Yes the intake cam is the only one the really needs to be removed but if you just follow the manuals instruction it directs you to remove both as if you would be servicing the exhaust also. You do have to lift both of them out initially since the gear teeth are meshed but you can then sit the exhaust cam back in there.
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Old 05-17-14, 08:51 PM   #66
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This is what I found on the drivers side head where the valve cover gasket goes. I was snapping picks to keep track of all my work and noticed it. Will this mess up the gasket seal? If so how does anyone suggest I file it down?
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Old 05-18-14, 02:54 PM   #67
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I'm having the same issue as others before me. I can't get the TB on the passenger cam. I remember when I helped/watched do the first TB at 120k that the right cam actually moved clockwise but not actually turn when you pull on the ratchet. This time however it turns but doesn't actually remove the tension. Any ideals?
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Old 05-19-14, 06:39 AM   #68
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Look what I did. Just made a major mistake. I mistakenly set my torque wrench to 66ft/lbs when it was only supposed to be torqued at 66in/lbs.
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Old 05-19-14, 08:47 AM   #69
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I've been turning the Broken bolt from the back and make a Lil progress but it's slowing going. The needle nose pliers keep slipping though. Is the a better method with this much of the bolt exposed?
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Old 05-19-14, 09:22 AM   #70
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I'd probably try vice grips. Otherwise drill it out. Or if you have a welder you could weld a nut on it and turn it out with a wrench.
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Old 05-19-14, 11:24 AM   #71
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Thanks I got it out with the vice grips right after I posted. I want sure there was enough bolt to grab on to it.
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Old 05-19-14, 11:28 AM   #72
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as for the gouge in the gasket mating surface, just file off whatever exposed excess metal there is but don't go overboard and take off too much metal. the new FIPG should go into the spot and still form a good seal.

how is the rest of the job coming along?
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Old 05-19-14, 07:57 PM   #73
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Quote:
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as for the gouge in the gasket mating surface, just file off whatever exposed excess metal there is but don't go overboard and take off too much metal. the new FIPG should go into the spot and still form a good seal.

how is the rest of the job coming along?
The valve cover actually has a rubber gasket but I will put some FIPG under that spot to help it seal. The job is almost done considering I had to take the belt back off the passenger cam to remove the pulley and front bearing cap to get that bolt off from behind. I got it all back together and the timing is still spot on though. I just have to install the valve covers, fan coupling, fan, radiator and air box. Then I will put some seafoam in the oil and let it run for about 15 minutes, drain it and put some mobile 1 synthetic in the engine.
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Old 05-20-14, 09:27 PM   #74
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Finally got it done and no leaks so far. Car started right up but there is some valve tick. I guess they need to be lubed after being open for so long.
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Old 05-20-14, 09:27 PM
 
 
 
 
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3s, 98, 99, cam, camshaft, lexus, ls, ls400, oil, pull, removal, seal, seals, top, valve, vvti

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