I removed the drivers side first....replaced the oil seal on the cam. Then put it back in the engine and bolted it down. But it was not the final bolt down.
Then moved on to the passenger side. I treated the cams well but was not overly careful outside of keeping them level.
Once the cams are out because of the vvti....in particular.
I worked on a bench with towels on it...and I believe if you dropped the cam with the vvti.....that would be bad!
How sure are you about the alignment overall? Did you check it along the way? Or check it per the instructions prior to removing the belt?
Yes the alignment was spot on. I put several marks with whiteout all over the place and even on the cams so I would know where everything was at before I remove them. I already moved the drivers side cam some to try to get the service hole in position but it's not too far from where it was at originally. I'll take some pics of the markings tomorrow and post back. Like i said I have to get the correct seals ordered tomorrow so I wont be finishing this job until next week,
Yes the engine was working perfectly. I started this job to get rid of the leaking cam seals and decided it was best to do everything while I'm in there. I will def be checking the timing before I start the car!
It took me a few days to do. And I was very nervous along the way.....but everything turned out fine..
If you have any more questions let me know! I hope I was able to help. ...I did my repair awhile ago....it is still my daily driver and I live in la.........I feel like it has many miles left in it
I'm posting a lot and taking lots of pictures with the ideal of doing some kind of how-to thread. Anyway I had to go to the dealer and pay the outrageous price of $60 for the correct cam seals. Even if I bought them online from Sewell or Lexusof Atl they still would have been $50+ with shipping and having to wait for them to arrive. I briefly looked at the aftermarket ones on Ebay and Rockauto that were Timken and Felpro branded but quickly crossed that out. This job is stressful enough without having to maybe go back in to put OEM seals in if those did not hold up. I also got Toyota red for $28.
Well I got the courage up and turned the exhaust cam on the drivers side to get the markings and the service hole lined up. It gave some resistance and actually snapped back on the last half turn so I had to move it back forward again. Talk about nervous! But that is done and I hope it's Ok since there is no turning back now. So I loosened all the bearing cap bolts in the sequence that the manual tell you to do, then removed them but ran into another issue. When I tried to lift the front bearing cap which is the one in back of the pulleys and the OCV ( Oil Control Valve ) goes into the cam seal was stuck to the bearing cap on top. You'll see what I'm talking about in the pics. So since the seal is stuck to the bearing cap when I try removing the cap it also pulls the intake cam up with it. I tried holding the cam down with the wrench while pulling on the cap to see if I could separate them but it was no go so I left it the for the time being since it was starting rain.
Some drops of water got on the cams from the slight drizzle before I closed the hood. Sort of like that annoying mist that gets on your windshield when it's not really raining yet. I hope that wont be an issue.
1998 LS 400
2010 GS 350 AWD
Last edited by sha4000; 10-18-14 at 10:35 AM..
I've resized the pics since they were taking up tooooo much space in the thread. Why doesn't the sight automatically resize them like on LOC??? I just noticed it. Anyway I've been cleaning up the various parts of the engine and here are before and after pics of the throttle body. It kind of had dried up oil or something on the surfaces. There was some built up carbon but not alot. Most of the stuff I could just wipe off. How would oil make it's way into the throttle to the degree in the pics??/
1998 LS 400
2010 GS 350 AWD
Last edited by sha4000; 05-17-14 at 08:02 AM..