Help!! Lol Sheered off idler pulley bolt
02-20-14, 04:38 PM
#31
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Also, this is totally off topic, but can anyone that views this thread confirm for me that this is where the block heater installs? I want to install one before I'm done this job and fill with new coolant (using dex-cool, which I'm not fond of, lot's of controversy around this coolant eating head gaskets, but lexls used it in his tutorials, so....)
02-20-14, 05:55 PM
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02-20-14, 06:11 PM
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02-21-14, 11:18 PM
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02-22-14, 12:03 AM
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what part of Canada doesn't have a Toyota dealer within 200 km?
and are you certain no dealerships will ship it?
I guess if I had no Toyota red accessible, I would flush system with water and use Zerex Asian vehicle.
and are you certain no dealerships will ship it?
I guess if I had no Toyota red accessible, I would flush system with water and use Zerex Asian vehicle.
Last edited by LScowboyLS; 02-22-14 at 12:06 AM.
02-22-14, 04:38 PM
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02-25-14, 03:43 PM
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luckily I found a way to get ahold of some Toyota coolant and ordered a block heater for the water jacket in the posted pic.
Also I think my code 25 should be gone when this job is finished, I changed my fuel filter which looked relatively new and also took note that before removing the belt the cams appeared to be off by at least a tooth, I'm amazed at how well the engine ran considering that observation. Will have her back together this weekend and then the next job is tackling the elusive proper ABS/TRAC bleed to get this system back in working order, also going to do a full bleed and switch to DOT4.
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Also I think my code 25 should be gone when this job is finished, I changed my fuel filter which looked relatively new and also took note that before removing the belt the cams appeared to be off by at least a tooth, I'm amazed at how well the engine ran considering that observation. Will have her back together this weekend and then the next job is tackling the elusive proper ABS/TRAC bleed to get this system back in working order, also going to do a full bleed and switch to DOT4.
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02-26-14, 01:11 PM
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Another question, when I did a belt replacement on my E34 BMW, the FSM stated "be sure to place the transmission in neutral before performing timing belt replacement", however, the Lexus FSM doesn't state the same precaution, so I have had it in park with the e-brake engaged while doing belt/seal replacement.
A friend of mine with Toyota experience that's been giving me a hand with this job found that it was odd that the crank/cams would turn with P engaged, since I'm very inexperienced I don't understand the workings of the situation but I was curious so I thought I'd ask about it. When I finish the job this weekend will there be any reason to put the car into neutral at any point or should I leave it in P? (Battery is also disconnected).
I guess some other suspicions I may have involve typical sweat points; I've always noticed ATF sweat where the transmission dipstick tube sleeves together, never had observable fluid level drops though so I assume that spot is 100% normal. But I've also noticed fluid on my "PS oil cooler line" that goes around the oil pan, on this system I've also never had observable fluid loss, and it even gives me ultra smooth steering from dead cold in -30 C or colder compared to summer temps, I did notice the bracket that holds the line on the drivers side wasn't quite stable and the line had been pushed up above the pan flange. Just looking for someone's 2 cents on how durable this hose is and if I should expect replacement in the near future, luckily I've never had the commonly mentioned leaks that exhibit near pump/reservoir.
And lastly, another possibly stupid question so I apologize, but is there some sort of baffle in the brake fluid reservoir? I was checking the quality of the fluid and noticed something baffle-like literally right below the surface of the fluid. I also am assuming this is normal.
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A friend of mine with Toyota experience that's been giving me a hand with this job found that it was odd that the crank/cams would turn with P engaged, since I'm very inexperienced I don't understand the workings of the situation but I was curious so I thought I'd ask about it. When I finish the job this weekend will there be any reason to put the car into neutral at any point or should I leave it in P? (Battery is also disconnected).
I guess some other suspicions I may have involve typical sweat points; I've always noticed ATF sweat where the transmission dipstick tube sleeves together, never had observable fluid level drops though so I assume that spot is 100% normal. But I've also noticed fluid on my "PS oil cooler line" that goes around the oil pan, on this system I've also never had observable fluid loss, and it even gives me ultra smooth steering from dead cold in -30 C or colder compared to summer temps, I did notice the bracket that holds the line on the drivers side wasn't quite stable and the line had been pushed up above the pan flange. Just looking for someone's 2 cents on how durable this hose is and if I should expect replacement in the near future, luckily I've never had the commonly mentioned leaks that exhibit near pump/reservoir.
And lastly, another possibly stupid question so I apologize, but is there some sort of baffle in the brake fluid reservoir? I was checking the quality of the fluid and noticed something baffle-like literally right below the surface of the fluid. I also am assuming this is normal.
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02-26-14, 04:43 PM
#44
If the BMW came optionally with a 5 speed manual tranny, that could be a reason to put it in neutral. In that case, the engine is physically connected to the drive wheels while the clutch is let out. So, turning the crank by hand will cause the wheels to rotate. Not good if up on a stand. Otherwise, an automatic has a torque converter which is made to let the engine and tranny slip (no wheel movement) and will allow the engine to freely rotate for the timing belt alignment even when in Park.
Last edited by randal; 02-26-14 at 05:01 PM.