Just bought a 1997 LS400 with 111,000 miles any maintenance advise to start?
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Just bought a 1997 LS400 with 111,000 miles any maintenance advise to start?
It all looks good (especially considering I'm a convert from BMW and I'm used to maintenance).
The car has 111,111 miles exactly and boasts one owner claiming to have done the timing belt and ALL scheduled maintenance at the dealer. In my excitement to pay only $3,900 I forgot to get or even look at the receipts. What should I look for on this car to make it a good daily driver? The tie rod ends are worn and the power feels a bit low for 260hp... Any help is great.
The car has 111,111 miles exactly and boasts one owner claiming to have done the timing belt and ALL scheduled maintenance at the dealer. In my excitement to pay only $3,900 I forgot to get or even look at the receipts. What should I look for on this car to make it a good daily driver? The tie rod ends are worn and the power feels a bit low for 260hp... Any help is great.
#2
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I would do the following:
● go to local Lexus dealership and give them your VIN and they will give you a record of all maintenance that has been done (timing belt, etc.) - if the timing belt was over 90K or more than 10 years ago, I would have it done now.
● read the LS400 FAQ here on Club Lexus
● replace caps, rotors, plug wires and plugs (genuine Toyota on caps & rotors, OEM Denso or NGK is fine on plugs & wires)
● replace Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (ECTS) with genuine Toyota part (big difference in mileage and power)
● fix your power steering leak (you very likely have one and it will kill your alternator!)
● clean throttle body, especially butterfly area
● replace air filter and PCV valve
● replace strut bar bushings if this has not yet been done
● ECU capacitors (future very likely problem area and you get free low end power now and even nicer shifting)
● change oil (use a name brand full synthetic 5W-30 such as Pennzoil Ultra or Platinum, Mobil 1, etc.)
● change tranny fluid (do NOT have tranny flushed, just changed like the oil, use only genuine Toyota T-IV fluid and a new drain bolt and gasket)
● change differential fluid
● change coolant (be sure to use genuine Toyota long-life red)
● consider a new fuel cap, new coolant reservoir cap, and new positive battery terminal (use Toyota parts on all 3 of these)
● four wheel alignment
● a set of one of the following three sets of tires: Michelin Primacy MXV4, Pirelli Cinturato P7 All Season Plus, Bridgestone Turanza Serenity Plus
● inspect condition of main drive belt, all fluid levels and condition of all hoses
● inspect brakes
if you do these things, the power will be back, and you will have a reliable daily driver!
genuine Toyota parts are available online for ~25% discount from online dealerships such as Lexus of South Atlanta, Park Place Lexus, Lexus Parts Now, Sewell Lexus, etc.)
on outer tie rod ends, the Toyota ones are cheap enough at discount to go ahead and use those, on inner tie rods ends, I would probably save the money over the very pricey factory parts and use Raybestos Pro or possibly Beck-Arnley
● go to local Lexus dealership and give them your VIN and they will give you a record of all maintenance that has been done (timing belt, etc.) - if the timing belt was over 90K or more than 10 years ago, I would have it done now.
● read the LS400 FAQ here on Club Lexus
● replace caps, rotors, plug wires and plugs (genuine Toyota on caps & rotors, OEM Denso or NGK is fine on plugs & wires)
● replace Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (ECTS) with genuine Toyota part (big difference in mileage and power)
● fix your power steering leak (you very likely have one and it will kill your alternator!)
● clean throttle body, especially butterfly area
● replace air filter and PCV valve
● replace strut bar bushings if this has not yet been done
● ECU capacitors (future very likely problem area and you get free low end power now and even nicer shifting)
● change oil (use a name brand full synthetic 5W-30 such as Pennzoil Ultra or Platinum, Mobil 1, etc.)
● change tranny fluid (do NOT have tranny flushed, just changed like the oil, use only genuine Toyota T-IV fluid and a new drain bolt and gasket)
● change differential fluid
● change coolant (be sure to use genuine Toyota long-life red)
● consider a new fuel cap, new coolant reservoir cap, and new positive battery terminal (use Toyota parts on all 3 of these)
● four wheel alignment
● a set of one of the following three sets of tires: Michelin Primacy MXV4, Pirelli Cinturato P7 All Season Plus, Bridgestone Turanza Serenity Plus
● inspect condition of main drive belt, all fluid levels and condition of all hoses
● inspect brakes
if you do these things, the power will be back, and you will have a reliable daily driver!
genuine Toyota parts are available online for ~25% discount from online dealerships such as Lexus of South Atlanta, Park Place Lexus, Lexus Parts Now, Sewell Lexus, etc.)
on outer tie rod ends, the Toyota ones are cheap enough at discount to go ahead and use those, on inner tie rods ends, I would probably save the money over the very pricey factory parts and use Raybestos Pro or possibly Beck-Arnley
Last edited by LScowboyLS; 01-16-14 at 12:52 PM.
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Drewsrew (04-22-23)
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Thank you cowboy, that's a pretty long list, but it shares most of what my untrained eyes and brain we're telling me to do. It looks like the ECTS sensor is an issue on these and I believe you are correct about a power steering seep. One drip on the garage floor after four days the valve cover (driver side) seems to have wetness at the rear bolt as well. Is that something that needs to be addressed? Also the lower pan gasket may be perished, but I'm no mechanic. Thanks. Do you feel it was a worthy purchase knowing what you know?
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refresh this page as I have expanded my list - lol
the power steering leak may well be only a $3 dollar o-ring, if you do it yourself or have an honest mechanic, the o-ring between the pump reservoir and pump - but that o-ring will end up costing you a very expensive alternator if you put it off! (I put mine off ) - do not listen to crooked dealerships and mechanics that want to tell you that your pump or rack is leaking (they're not)
I would not worry about a small oil leak from the valve cover gaskets, just clean the area well and if it's not leaking enough to drip down on the manifold and cause an annoying burnt smoke smell then I would concentrate on far more important things in the list above
the power steering leak may well be only a $3 dollar o-ring, if you do it yourself or have an honest mechanic, the o-ring between the pump reservoir and pump - but that o-ring will end up costing you a very expensive alternator if you put it off! (I put mine off ) - do not listen to crooked dealerships and mechanics that want to tell you that your pump or rack is leaking (they're not)
I would not worry about a small oil leak from the valve cover gaskets, just clean the area well and if it's not leaking enough to drip down on the manifold and cause an annoying burnt smoke smell then I would concentrate on far more important things in the list above
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Do you feel it was a worthy purchase knowing what you know?
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I made it through most of the inspection and fluids part today (all good). The sensors, suspension and perhaps rotors still need attention, but all in due time.
** premium gas in southern CA is 91 octane. Is that good, or do I need any additive?
** premium gas in southern CA is 91 octane. Is that good, or do I need any additive?
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So far so good. In fact I even discovered the change trey has $8.35 in coins lol.
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Well, the plot thickens...
Finally got her up on a rack (i work at a Honda dealership) and it is really oily down there under the skid cover. I went to look for the thunking sound in the strut bar/control arms and was told the "A arm" main bushing (where it attaches to the frame) is shot and metal on metal...
Valve covers are all leaking, not seeping
transmission pan is leaking and could use a drain/filter and and gasket (looks like silicone though)
timing tensioner is leaky
engine oil pan needs a gasket
unknown number of rubbers and or suspension pieces may need attention.
May need a timing belt due to age of old one
the bill has eclipsed $2500 and rising...
Is there a good way to do these items for less than the Stealership charges? can an independant be trusted. I dont feel good trying to do any of this myself.
** Sad thing, is the car drives like a creampuff!!!
Finally got her up on a rack (i work at a Honda dealership) and it is really oily down there under the skid cover. I went to look for the thunking sound in the strut bar/control arms and was told the "A arm" main bushing (where it attaches to the frame) is shot and metal on metal...
Valve covers are all leaking, not seeping
transmission pan is leaking and could use a drain/filter and and gasket (looks like silicone though)
timing tensioner is leaky
engine oil pan needs a gasket
unknown number of rubbers and or suspension pieces may need attention.
May need a timing belt due to age of old one
the bill has eclipsed $2500 and rising...
Is there a good way to do these items for less than the Stealership charges? can an independant be trusted. I dont feel good trying to do any of this myself.
** Sad thing, is the car drives like a creampuff!!!
#13
Lexus Champion
Finally got her up on a rack (i work at a Honda dealership) and it is really oily down there under the skid cover. I went to look for the thunking sound in the strut bar/control arms and was told the "A arm" main bushing (where it attaches to the frame) is shot and metal on metal...
Valve covers are all leaking, not seeping
transmission pan is leaking and could use a drain/filter and and gasket (looks like silicone though)
timing tensioner is leaky
PS - when you do the timing belt - you get a NEW one anyway! (if someone competent does it)
engine oil pan needs a gasket
unknown number of rubbers and or suspension pieces may need attention.
May need a timing belt due to age of old one
the bill has eclipsed $2500 and rising...
Is there a good way to do these items for less than the Stealership charges? can an independant be trusted. I dont feel good trying to do any of this myself.
Is there a good way to do these items for less than the Stealership charges? can an independant be trusted. I dont feel good trying to do any of this myself.
I would try and do most of these items (the few that are truly necessary) yourself! - you will save a ton of money and it will be done right and you will end up with an awesome factory service manual set and some new tools in addition to the money savings!
Last edited by LScowboyLS; 01-17-14 at 06:46 PM.
#14
Congrats on a sweet find and welcome to the club...Gotta love the pearl white ones... I know I do.
Just follow the instructions from above and your 'new' lexus will last you a long time.
Just follow the instructions from above and your 'new' lexus will last you a long time.
#15
what you have listed isn't anything out of the ordinary. i always expect to spend upwards of $1000 or so to get a used car up to my standards.
if you work at a honda dealership, you can tackle all of what you've listed fairly quickly. listen to cowboy, he is a resident guru!
if you work at a honda dealership, you can tackle all of what you've listed fairly quickly. listen to cowboy, he is a resident guru!