waynep

I have a 95 Lexus LS 400 and the key will not turn the ignition, I put lube in the ignition snd it still won't turn. Do you have any suggestions.

ls40098

Just a thought….is the steering wheel by chance all the way to the left or right with pressure on it. I have had that happen, took pressure from wheel by turning in the correct direction and key worked.

Largefarva

Try tapping the end of the key with a screwdriver handle or small hammer, if it works don't shut it off because key cylinders need to be in the in position to be changed.

LScowboyLS

do NOT ever put "lube" in your ignition lock

do NOT ever tap the key with a hammer while inserted into the ignition

good grief, people!!

wiggle the steering wheel and the shifter while stepping on the brake

aomdedude1

Thats strange. I had that exact issue just last week. I had to wiggle the key for around 15seconds and put quite a bit of pressure before it would turn.

My wheels were straight too. Maybe my cylinder just needs some lube?

I wonder if it has something to do with the cold weather in my area.

Largefarva

You sure about those? We lube them all the time at work, also we advise customers to do the same, sticky tumblers are quite common, if nothing else works a tap on the end of the key usually does.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

steering wheel lock, standard anti-theft feature since like the 80s.

YoshiMan

Any results with this? Will it not turn at all? Or will it not allow you to turn it past the accessory position? If its the latter, Your ignition tumbler may have gone south, which happens sometimes with vehicles this age.

JM51526

My 1990 LS did that, once, and inexplicably - I could never duplicate it. A little pressure pushing IN on the key and it turned fine...

rysugihara

Thanks for the posts...I have a 1999 Lexus LS400 and last night, the ignition key wouldn't turn. Thanks to the posts, I stepped on the brakes, turned my steering wheel a little toward the curb (direction where the wheels were turned), and turned the ignition key--the ignition key turned with no effort! It appears that the steering wheel pressure prevented the ignition key from turning. Thank you!!!!!

dicer

"NO LUBE" Well maybe the newer electronic locks don't need it, but in the older stuff especially the door and trunk locks need lube, if they don't have any then they corrode and won't work at all. If there are mechanical tumblers or what ever you care to call them they need something to prevent corrosion and wear. I have taken apart a few that wouldn't move the reason was corrosion, and I actually had to use emery and sand the sides of the tumblers to remove the corrosion scale. That lock works like new now. I have not attacked the ignition lock yet but I do have one that needs attention.

cobalt91

Hey dicer, when you do this, can you post up some pics? My trunk lock is siezed and have been thinkin about trying this. Lucky my release inside still works.

dicer

I haven't had camera software in this pc for along time. And besides I would only post pictures if the website allows them to be uploaded. I will not do those goofy photo bucket deals. Its no fun to see worthless links to non existent pictures on websites when the photobucket account becomes defunct. I was thinking of doing that sort of thing (take pics of fixes), but it sure takes more time to do stuff then. And the lock is a pain sorta you have to be very organized with it. You will need to remove the inner trunk lid panel to remove the lock. On each side in the openings for access to the tail light in that panel towards the LH and RH sides of the car are little metal clips you slide off carefully the side to the panel has a barb that kind of digs into the panel so careful with that. I start at the front driverside and pull out on the panel and get my hand behind it to work out the clips holding it. Do it carefully as they are glued to the panel they pull out of the holes in the metal lid. It is kind of self explanatory how to get the lock out, I tied a string to the actuator rod and stuck it out the hole the lock was in then put electrical tape over the hole. You can still use the electric release and or the string and a finger to open the trunk while working on the lock. Once lock is on bench you remove the nut on the back of the lock to remove the arm, and the switch, take good notes and some pics. Its been awhile since I did it. There are some little metal tabs to bend, if you can get the key in it do so before removing the cylinder tumbler assembly. If they are all not corroded they will fall out and you will have a mess figuring out where they go. You have to lay them out as they come out and remember what slot they go in. There are small springs in holes that push them out, the key is what pulls them in. If when the key is in and if any of the them stick out its not going to work, if its in the proper slot and that happens either its not the right key or key or tumbler is worn.
OH and if it is a corroded mess and you can't even take it apart or if the tumblers are corroded into the cylinder, just use some vinegar in a paper cup or glass not metal and put the parts in it took mine about 2 days I think to decorrode it, check it ever so often. when it looks good wash with soap and water and then lube with something like WD40 let set a bit and the tumblers should come out okay. When apart clean everything the best you can, assemble dry and then use a good spray lock lube. If its not ready after doing the lube thing, then you need to degrease it then back into the vinegar for some more soaking. Believe it or not vinegar is one of the best things for removing corrosion and rust.

cobalt91

Thanks for the information. I'll try this next weekend. I'll post up the results when I get it finished.