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Timing, Tensioners and now Radiators?... oh my! HELP! Pics inside

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Old 12-11-13, 05:37 PM   #1
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Default Timing, Tensioners and now Radiators?... oh my! HELP! Pics inside

So finally got around to the timing belt and water pump work today (to be fair, I am doing far less than the bulk of the work, have a real mechanic over)

(Side note, both my mechanic and I were AMAZED that the old timing belt with a full 120k on it looks almost brand new, no where, nothing... see pics (damn could have waited, is this normal for a 120k gates belt?)

Anyway, using the Aisin TKT-030 and all was going pretty well... until putting it back together. First the drive belt tensioner assembly snapped off where the tensior is bolted to the assembly. There's 150.00

Then the radiator overflow nipple broke off. Mechanic said he can fix with JB weld... (see fix in pic) but I am dubious of the hold.

So here is my dilema; unless someone tells me otherwise (i.e. JB Weld will hold for that nipple) then I am sourcing a radiator locally tomorrow and my options appear to suck. Since I cannot order one (HAS to be tomorrow) my options are crappy autozone, oreilly, advanced and napa.

Any thoughts on which is best my 96 LS? I am leaning toward Napa.
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Old 12-11-13, 06:11 PM   #2
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For the radiator nipple mine was the same, and I think Jb weld was use but it didn't hold up long, so I just order a new radiator instead. Bought one from oriely and been working fine, no issue at all
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Old 12-11-13, 06:42 PM   #3
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previous owner of my car (my friend) didnt do the timing belt. I bought it from him with 180k on it.
v8 belt is wider than a 4cyl belt so Id expect it would last a tad bit longer. But some belts to wear out quicker than the other depends on temps (so i hear)

The tensioner assembly needs to be replaced. Its reverse thread meaning turning it right would over tighten and snap like it did.

I replaced my entire tensioner assembly with a gates. Dayco pulley did not fit correctly that I got from the autoparts store. The entire assembly was about $20 more. (ebay)

The jb weld on the nipple is fine but if you drive long distances Id suggest replacing the radiator for peace of mind. I jb welded my nipple and drove it over 20hrs in one weekend and held up fine. It would be still on there but i was under the hood aiming my head lights and my hand broke the nipple off again. (two months later) So i replaced the radiator since I already had it and new hoses.
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Old 12-11-13, 07:12 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dengman View Post
previous owner of my car (my friend) didnt do the timing belt. I bought it from him with 180k on it.
v8 belt is wider than a 4cyl belt so Id expect it would last a tad bit longer. But some belts to wear out quicker than the other depends on temps (so i hear)

The tensioner assembly needs to be replaced. Its reverse thread meaning turning it right would over tighten and snap like it did.

I replaced my entire tensioner assembly with a gates. Dayco pulley did not fit correctly that I got from the autoparts store. The entire assembly was about $20 more. (ebay)

The jb weld on the nipple is fine but if you drive long distances Id suggest replacing the radiator for peace of mind. I jb welded my nipple and drove it over 20hrs in one weekend and held up fine. It would be still on there but i was under the hood aiming my head lights and my hand broke the nipple off again. (two months later) So i replaced the radiator since I already had it and new hoses.
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I jb welded my nipple
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Old 12-11-13, 07:27 PM   #5
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NICE.....
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Old 12-11-13, 07:41 PM   #6
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As long as the nipple is the one that comes into the radiator from the coolant reservoir, there isn't a problem at all. There isn't any pressure on that side and simply uses a slight vacuum to suck in coolant in the event the radiator starts to go low.

The old school trick is to stick a straw in the hole that fits inside as a brace, and jb weld the plastic back together.
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Old 12-11-13, 07:55 PM   #7
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tensioners and nipples and other things don't just break or snap off, not when using genuine Toyota OEM parts or the parts that came on the car, be careful and use a torque wrench for everything when tightening!
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Old 12-12-13, 12:39 AM   #8
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tensioners and nipples and other things don't just break or snap off, not when using genuine Toyota OEM parts or the parts that came on the car, be careful and use a torque wrench for everything when tightening!


If the person working on the car is rough, yes they do break or snap off... And considering all those parts look like they are OEM parts... Obviously they do.
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Old 12-12-13, 01:16 AM   #9
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tensioners and nipples and other things don't just break or snap off, not when using genuine Toyota OEM parts or the parts that came on the car, be careful and use a torque wrench for everything when tightening!
they do break when they're going on 20 years old....
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Old 12-12-13, 05:11 AM   #10
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Both parts are definitely OEM but my mechanic while definitely good at his craft, has only done a few toyotas so is not overly familiar with the setup.

Its all good, I have an OCD about replacing what I can while in there, so I figure after 17 years that radiator did its job.

The real question is can I trust a "parts store" radiator to replace it? Not surprisingly the Autozone, OReilly and Advanced radiators are the EXACT same price... the Napa is about 20 bucks more. Are they ALL the same or should I spend 20 bucks more and drive 20 miles further to get the Napa?
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Old 12-12-13, 08:00 AM   #11
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I have had good luck with a radiator in my 300ZX from Advance! - the main thing is to open it up while you are still at the store and if there are any crush/bent fins, get another one! - This also goes for A/C condensers.
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Old 12-12-13, 09:49 AM   #12
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Find out what brand they are as well. Often you will find decent part reboxed! So open up the box and have a look. If the shop says no then say the last place you went to tried to sell you a rad with have the the fine crushed and you buy another without checking it out first!
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Old 12-12-13, 09:58 AM   #13
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Find out what brand they are as well. Often you will find decent part reboxed! So open up the box and have a look. If the shop says no then say the last place you went to tried to sell you a rad with have the the fine crushed and you buy another without checking it out first!
It looks like the radiator while labeled as a "Murray" is actually made by CSF. Does that mean anything to anyone?
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Old 12-12-13, 12:18 PM   #14
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I think the good one I got from Advance Auto Parts was "Ready-Rad" brand.
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Old 12-12-13, 12:38 PM   #15
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The serpentine belt tensioner bolt does tend to shear off when it's turned the wrong way and therefore overtightened, was it you or your mechanic that removed it?
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