MngreLMatt

Well,

Another semi-successful day on my mom's GX 470 and the 99 LS. Cleaned the throttle body of the GX which is now squeaky clean. Although since hooking everything back up, the auto window key turn in the door handle no longer rolls up/down all the windows and she's also having trouble with the windows from the interior controller. Seems like a strange problem to have after a simple TB cleaning. The GX has had loads of problems ever since we got it. Definitely not the same caliber beast as our LS's. FIX - ALL that needed to be done was a little normalization of the windows

Onto somewhat better things..Wanted to take a look at the spark plugs on my car as well as other things. I pulled one out and did not like what I saw, so I figured I'd pull one more out just to take a looksy (I was having a good time doing it). Needless to say from the pictures, I was not pleased with what I saw. I'll be replacing all 8 here ASAP. Stoked to have another project to do.

On the list still : Plugs, Trans mount, ECT (If needed), Valve cover gasket producing a little smoke on start up from the passenger side.

~Matt

LScowboyLS

I would be willing to bet those are the factory original plugs!

MngreLMatt

By the condition of them I would be inclined to agree. Ha! Although I thought the factory originals were IFR6A11 for the '99? In any case, I'm excited to see how it runs with the new plugs in. I'm getting 22-22.5 combined mpg as is. I avoid A/C and rolling down the windows at all costs to squeeze a few more mpg out of the tank. Can't wait to see the difference with the new ones WOOHOO.

LScowboyLS

both Denso SK20R11 and NGK IFR6A11 were installed by the factory, the Denso probably more often, and I would lean slightly to that plug. - and your pics show why, they may not look that good, but for 15 year old plugs, they look fantastic!

PS - don't use a plug that isn't Denso or NGK, or I don't think you will be very pleased

If you hate doing plugs, stick with the two mentioned above, they are both good for 100K miles - the NGK's are now called IFR6T11

If changing the plugs is easy and enjoyable, then a nickel alloy plug such as Denso K20R-U11 are fine - and double check factory gap to make sure it's 1.1 mm (0.043-0.044 in.)

I don't care for platinum.

FYI - copper plugs are a myth! - all NGK and Denso plugs are "copper core" - the only thing that varies is the electrode material, which is nickel alloy in their standard plug, or else it is made of platinum or iridium (longest lasting) - no plugs have a copper electrode, that is a myth, copper wouldn't last 5 minutes in a combustion chamber, too soft and too low of a melting point!

billydpowe

iTrader: (1)

I just drove my black 99 (235k) on a 160 mile trip and it clocked 26.5 with out air, speed was 70-80 mph..

MngreLMatt

Word in from the jefe that the plugs were never touched...ouch! Those are the original plugs all right. Sheesh Dad! Awesome info cowboy, thank you mucho. I would like to stick with the SK20R11s if possible as to keep the car as close to how the engineers designed it. Now, if there is a different, superior plug that is unanimously agreed upon for our cars I'm all for it. Although for me, I would rather go for stock performance and best mileage possible-- as opposed to higher performance and lower mileage.

Billy that is exactly what I like to see. The other day I filled up, drove 20 miles south on the freeway and about 4 miles on stop-go, hill ridden roads and the average getting off the highway was 32.5mpg for the tank. It's amazing that these cars can get such good mileage on the highway and yet have such a luxury feel. I can't speak for the earlier LS's but the 1998-2000 models are just a dream.

Thanks again guys

Matt

LScowboyLS

I don't know of any plug any better than SK20R11 when you factor in durability. - They really shouldn't be run for 100K, that was an exaggeration, I would replace every 60-90K

just make sure to check the gap (should be already correct out of the box) and only tighten to 13 lb-ft. with a torque wrench. Hand tighten initially so you can feel if it becomes cross-threaded.


any fuel savings (slight) gained by turning off the A/C will be more than eaten up when you prematurely wear out your A/C system by doing this, it may seem counter-intuitive, but A/C systems run longer, trouble-free, the more you use them! (because they stay internally lubricated better) - I even turn on my compressor (A/C button) in the winter, even though I have the air blowing heat, of course, because even a few months of not using the A/C is not good for it! - A/C is one of the most expensive systems to fix on the car!

MngreLMatt

Wow. More great info. I'll have to throw it on from time to time then to keep it going.

As far as the spark plugs-how do you hand tighten it when there is a long tunnel leading down to them. When installing them yesterday I went very slow and it seemed to work out all right and put my torque wrench
.5lb/ft lower always because quite frankly I'm pretty scared about shattering one of these things.

LScowboyLS

with a long extension of course!
(I am actually being serious here)


it won't shatter, the porcelain insulator is not even stressed when you are torquing it (due to physics) - you could put 50 ft-lbs of torque on them and there would be no shattering (but you would probably strip out the threads in the head, so don't torque them with high torque), but even at 20 ft.-lbs everything will likely be fine. - so torque at the full 13 ft-lbs. next time, and do it with gusto!

MngreLMatt

Roger that

MngreLMatt

I also pulled out the ECT this evening while completely removing and cleaning the throttle body. The ECT was atrocious.. To me, it doesn't even look functional it is so corroded.

I'm sure if cars could feel mine would be very happy someone is taking care of it. haha

LScowboyLS

that component can have a huge effect on gas mileage, I would stick with the real Toyota one from the dealership - around $50 if you shop it

MngreLMatt

As far as I can tell it is a simple resistance relay at different temperatures right? What would the difference be between the Toyota and a generic one? Where I live the cheapest I can get it for is 60$.

I wouldn't be surprised if I was wrong, but I'm thinking what could Toyota/Lexus have done to make such a simple device so superior. I undeestand that there is an obvious bias for oem. And for good reason, I am bias in that same way. Although, after research many oem junkies went with a high quality gneric version. I'm really hoping I didn't do the wrong thing by buying one this evening from a ma and pop shop close to my house for 27$ by Standard ignition

charlesw62

The mileage loss is very minuscule with the a/c on. In fact you will probably see mpg loss with the windows down due to the "drag" produced by air rushing in and bumping against the backlight (rear window). The air has nowhere to go. Roll your windows up and enjoy the peace and quiet!

MngreLMatt

Noted Charles, thank you