deanshark

It sounds to me that one of your coils is bad. Usually the drivers side goes first, b/c it gets pretty hot down in there. I'd check for spark on the coils first. Your timing looks correct.

LANcr3w

No signs of a bad coil. The header doesnt glow. Both are brand new and ive tested both of them.
Plug wires, spark plugs, distributor caps and rotors are all new and correctly installed.

The car gives me the code 13. Flashes once then 3 more times. Its the only code it says too.
Ive tried to rule out anything spark related. This is the 4th time ive checked timing and doesnt
look to be out.

deanshark

Even though something is new, it can still be bad. A coil can give you spark in a test but doesn't give you a good enough spark. You have a fuel smell so you're not getting spark to some of your plugs. I would pull the plugs and check for spark to see which aren't firing. From there, go backwards. Wires, coil wire, cam sensors, igniters. It could be a number of things to go with a code 13. First thing to do is figure out which side isn't firing. That cuts out HALF of the diagnostic time.
Code 13 can get tricky sometimes.

LANcr3w

Well would anyone like to trade me 2, 100% WORKING and tested ignition coils? cuz apparently the 3 different sets ive gone through could be a waste of money...

Now Cam Sensor could be a possible thing. The wires that go to it through the cam gear cover were once pinched and grounded out. This caused a number of problems and i had no idea what it was till i came across it checking the timing one of the numerous times. I taped it up and it ran 100%.

LANcr3w

If one side wasnt firing i think itd be pretty noticeable. Ive had that be an issue before and you can hear the one cam loping just from exhaust and the motor would shake and feel if it was trying to cut off. The idle seems strong, too strong since its at 1,100rpms+ until u put it in drive then it goes to normal idle rpms

LScowboyLS

OK, if you are sure about all marks on both cam pulleys then do the steps on DTC 13 in the Engine Troubleshooting section in the factory service manual here

LANcr3w

Yeah i just saw that on ALLDATA. Now, would i get a code 13 if a camshaft position sensor had issues? Or would that not get a code on it own?

python

iTrader: (4)

u just solved ur problem right here...more than likely lol
get the connectors at the dealership

LANcr3w

hahaha yeah possibly, i havent actually got to look at that yet. Its not the connector but the wires themselves got pinched through and we fixed that and from there it ran. Theres a possibilty ijust might have got loose and isnt making a full connection so ill have to check that first. If it cam all the way undone the car wouldnt run at all, trust me i know hah.

Im really just ttrying to get all the options it could be so if that turns out to be fine i know where else to begin lol

LScowboyLS

yes, if you will go way back to the beginning of this thread, I had said that it could be any of the following:

● jumped time
● crank position sensor
● cam position sensor (2 of these)
● ECU


I think you are better off using the real Lexus factory service manual that I linked you to, rather than All-data

deanshark

In your first post you say "as i was driving it lost all power now it feels like a 3 cylinder, sounds raspy and rough. RPMS are very slow when revving the car. It also smells very rich of fuel"
so I guess it is noticeable. Seeing how you know you had problems with the cam sensor wires you should check those to make sure they're all connected right. That could very well be your problem right there.

LANcr3w

Oh definitely, i wasnt going to rule any of that out. Not if i dont want to get it running anyways lol.
And thanks for link im liking the manual so far better than ALLDATA anyways.

Ive noticed that if either unplugged or not working either cam sensor, the car wouldnt run at all.
Now would the crank sensor do that as well? if not itd be more likely that thats the issue.

LANcr3w

Yeah i was saying its very noticable that i lost a LOT of power, but its not really showing the signs of just one side not firing off, ive had that issue already and i can tell if thats what its doing.
But yeah, once i get to work on it tonight first thing on my list is to check that wire haha.

deanshark

The manual is so much better then Alldata. (So I've heard) I'd never give up my manual.
If one cam sensor was bad the car will run but very very badly. (only 4 cylinders) If the Crankshaft sensor was bad (or unplugged) it wouldn't run at all.

LScowboyLS

A crankshaft sensor screwing up say once every 20 revolutions would cause the car to run badly, but it would still run