LS400 Rear Deck Subwoofer Mounting
05-16-14, 04:39 PM
#121
well. I decided what I'm going to do. I'm going to do the same thing Shmee did and cut out a section in the rear deck to mount an MDF board with the sub in it. few things I'll do different will be using a 10" sub instead of a 12" sub and cutting a section large enough so I can upgrade to 2 10" subs in the future.
05-16-14, 05:49 PM
#122
I would suggest against the cutting a section big enough for 2 10s unless you are going to build a frame like I did and really weld it in properly. With how I did it, I could get away without doing a full coverage weld because I stayed away from the factory support braces but if you at going to cut bigger than I did you will cut through those braces and will have to do a lot of welding and make a fairly strong and structural frame for the subs.
I'd suggest cutting a single hole big enough to upgrade to a quality 12 or 15 sub rather than 2 10s...
I'd suggest cutting a single hole big enough to upgrade to a quality 12 or 15 sub rather than 2 10s...
05-16-14, 11:11 PM
#124
I can assure you, my single 12" SPB-4, driven by a super clean 475W is more than enough sub even just using a LOC and everything turned down to pretty low levels.
I've had some big systems in the past and what I have now is beyond adaquate.
I am really happy I listened to the suggestions to go with this sub!
I've had some big systems in the past and what I have now is beyond adaquate.
I am really happy I listened to the suggestions to go with this sub!
05-18-14, 01:02 PM
#130
No worries man, just plan ahead and only cut once!
To build a baffle and frame like I did you'll need to add 2" to the OD of the sub to get the outside perimeter dimensions of the frame and baffle you'll need to build. If you want to upgrade to a 12" sub, you'll need about a 14.5-15" frame, for a 15" sub you'll need about a 17.5-18" frame and baffle!
12" is about as big as you can go without doing major work on the third brake light. With my cram I had to trim off a couple of tabs but it fits almost factory now, just need to trim a little off the back edge around the forward edge to sit tighter to the surround and flush to the floor again. Then it's just finding something to stuff between the deck cover and surround and fill the hold where the center seatbelt came out, to make it look a little more factory clean
Almost done... by ZX3Tuning, on Flickr
I also want to try and track down some speaker cloth similar to the factory blue-grey fabric...
To build a baffle and frame like I did you'll need to add 2" to the OD of the sub to get the outside perimeter dimensions of the frame and baffle you'll need to build. If you want to upgrade to a 12" sub, you'll need about a 14.5-15" frame, for a 15" sub you'll need about a 17.5-18" frame and baffle!
12" is about as big as you can go without doing major work on the third brake light. With my cram I had to trim off a couple of tabs but it fits almost factory now, just need to trim a little off the back edge around the forward edge to sit tighter to the surround and flush to the floor again. Then it's just finding something to stuff between the deck cover and surround and fill the hold where the center seatbelt came out, to make it look a little more factory clean
Almost done... by ZX3Tuning, on Flickr
I also want to try and track down some speaker cloth similar to the factory blue-grey fabric...
06-25-14, 04:32 PM
#132
ok, I have a bit of a delima.
I have a 10" JL sub rated Rms 150w @ 4 Ohms and a 300W class D Mono Block Kicker amp rated 150w Rms @ 4 Ohms or 300W @ 2 Ohms.
My problem is I don't really want to have to cut away at the back dash. Will a 10" sub fit by just stacking a 10" MDF ring on the rear dash? If not, what other options do I have?
My only other idea to solve my problem is by just getting a 8" sub. If I do that, I'm looking at getting the Kicker CompS 8" Single-Voice-Coil Subwoofer rated 200w Rms @ 4 ohms or Kicker CompR 8" Dual-Voice-Coil Subwoofer rated 400w @ 2 ohms.
What would be my best option for dropping a new sub into the rear dash using the Kicker 300.1 Class D Mono Block amp?
I have a 10" JL sub rated Rms 150w @ 4 Ohms and a 300W class D Mono Block Kicker amp rated 150w Rms @ 4 Ohms or 300W @ 2 Ohms.
My problem is I don't really want to have to cut away at the back dash. Will a 10" sub fit by just stacking a 10" MDF ring on the rear dash? If not, what other options do I have?
My only other idea to solve my problem is by just getting a 8" sub. If I do that, I'm looking at getting the Kicker CompS 8" Single-Voice-Coil Subwoofer rated 200w Rms @ 4 ohms or Kicker CompR 8" Dual-Voice-Coil Subwoofer rated 400w @ 2 ohms.
What would be my best option for dropping a new sub into the rear dash using the Kicker 300.1 Class D Mono Block amp?
10-27-14, 07:12 PM
#133
Wondering if I can squeeze in a 12" without cutting. I want to just trim out the hole.sub needs an 11" cut out my idea is trim out the factory opening from 7.5" to about 10" then add 1/4" baffle on top(top reduce cutout needed) on bottom I'd add a 3/4" baffle and sandwich them togther. The rear deck is already deadened with a couple layers and I plan to seal everything with modeling clay/ rope caulk. Good idea or should I just settle for a 10" which fits with minimal trimming
10-27-14, 08:52 PM
#134
Either or.
But it really depends on what you are after and how much bass you want. Doing a riser baffle is probably going to be a LOT higher than you expect and it is also going to heavily limit the flow of the airmass being moved as you neck it down like that. It is honestly not that hard to build a proper baffle and the end results are well worth it. Plus with my design, you could just build a quick little 2nd battle and throw the stock sub back in without much issue if you ever sell the car!
But it really depends on what you are after and how much bass you want. Doing a riser baffle is probably going to be a LOT higher than you expect and it is also going to heavily limit the flow of the airmass being moved as you neck it down like that. It is honestly not that hard to build a proper baffle and the end results are well worth it. Plus with my design, you could just build a quick little 2nd battle and throw the stock sub back in without much issue if you ever sell the car!
10-28-14, 11:24 AM
#135
Not having the tools or the know how to weld makes it exponentially more difficult to pull off what you did. I think I'm going to be lazy and go with trim + the 10