Really stuck on this one!
10-02-13, 03:19 AM
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Really stuck on this one!
This is going to be a bit of a read but please bear with me.
I recently purchased for £200.00 ($300.00) a 1994 Toyota Celsior CF package with various issues.
The flickering dash,non working CD changer and leaking heater valve were soon sorted but the main reason I got the car at the price was because of a misfire on which the previous owner had spent over $750.00 trying to get sorted.
Initially the misfiring was there from cold start up,after a couple of minutes you could clearly hear the popping out of the exhausts so I removed the engine ECU and using the correct components did the capacitor change but the fault remained.
Having got the same car already I then swopped over the ECUs knowing mine was good and sure enough the fault switched cars so confirmed duff ECU.
I then purchased another good ECU did the capacitor replacement and the misfire had gone.
So now the engine idles fine from cold and settles down to a nice 650RPM when fully warm.
I then noticed when revving the engine it didn't sound quite right and sure enough when trying to drive it the engine has a complete lack of power or smooth delivery.
The EML was not illuminated but checking the codes revealed both main O2 sensors were faulty (21/28) with open circuit heaters so these were replaced with OEM types.
The codes have been cleared and have not returned but the fault remains.
From here I have checked all that I can think of, the CTS is reading correct resistance wise and voltage wise according to the factory manual, both cam sensors along with the crank sensor read correct. I have swopped the MAF from one car to the other and this makes no difference.I have rechecked the new distributor caps,rotor arms,leads and spark plugs all good. Fuel pressure also checked and correct,throttle body cleaned,TPS set up correctly and cylinder compressions are all around 300PSI.
I have noticed that when you rev the engine to say 2000RPM it will hold without fluctuation but there is a rythmic low frequency droning noise also present which seems to pulse in and out every couple of seconds.It's just not the free revving sound a V8 should make.
I don't know what to check next but it may be injector test time.
One more thing that I have is error code 22 on the SRS airbag systen which appeared after the dash was refitted even though the battery was disconected throughout the process and the wire dance will not clear it, back burner for now until the engine problem is sorted.
I recently purchased for £200.00 ($300.00) a 1994 Toyota Celsior CF package with various issues.
The flickering dash,non working CD changer and leaking heater valve were soon sorted but the main reason I got the car at the price was because of a misfire on which the previous owner had spent over $750.00 trying to get sorted.
Initially the misfiring was there from cold start up,after a couple of minutes you could clearly hear the popping out of the exhausts so I removed the engine ECU and using the correct components did the capacitor change but the fault remained.
Having got the same car already I then swopped over the ECUs knowing mine was good and sure enough the fault switched cars so confirmed duff ECU.
I then purchased another good ECU did the capacitor replacement and the misfire had gone.
So now the engine idles fine from cold and settles down to a nice 650RPM when fully warm.
I then noticed when revving the engine it didn't sound quite right and sure enough when trying to drive it the engine has a complete lack of power or smooth delivery.
The EML was not illuminated but checking the codes revealed both main O2 sensors were faulty (21/28) with open circuit heaters so these were replaced with OEM types.
The codes have been cleared and have not returned but the fault remains.
From here I have checked all that I can think of, the CTS is reading correct resistance wise and voltage wise according to the factory manual, both cam sensors along with the crank sensor read correct. I have swopped the MAF from one car to the other and this makes no difference.I have rechecked the new distributor caps,rotor arms,leads and spark plugs all good. Fuel pressure also checked and correct,throttle body cleaned,TPS set up correctly and cylinder compressions are all around 300PSI.
I have noticed that when you rev the engine to say 2000RPM it will hold without fluctuation but there is a rythmic low frequency droning noise also present which seems to pulse in and out every couple of seconds.It's just not the free revving sound a V8 should make.
I don't know what to check next but it may be injector test time.
One more thing that I have is error code 22 on the SRS airbag systen which appeared after the dash was refitted even though the battery was disconected throughout the process and the wire dance will not clear it, back burner for now until the engine problem is sorted.
Last edited by steve2006; 10-02-13 at 03:26 AM.
10-02-13, 04:03 AM
#2
Steve we once had a car in the shop that had the same failure, every thing looked good but it had no "get up and go".. we found that the exhaust (CC) was partially restricted and would not let a high volume of exhaust thru.. you might want to check that.
10-02-13, 04:14 AM
#3
Lexus Champion
10-02-13, 08:07 AM
#4
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Cheers guys, I hadn't considered this possibility and with both O2 sensors failing this would seem to reinforce the idea of blocked exhausts.
Another thing which I failed to mention is there is a large amount of water exiting the exhausts,dripping out at tickover but literally spraying out when revved.
The coolant level however remains constant and the compression check would seem to confirm no gasket failure.
It's pretty cool here in the UK now 10-12 degrees C so it could just be heavy condesation with the car being stood for a week or 2 between repair attempts.
If I can't borrow the device you recommend I will invest in one for sure.
Thanks again.
Another thing which I failed to mention is there is a large amount of water exiting the exhausts,dripping out at tickover but literally spraying out when revved.
The coolant level however remains constant and the compression check would seem to confirm no gasket failure.
It's pretty cool here in the UK now 10-12 degrees C so it could just be heavy condesation with the car being stood for a week or 2 between repair attempts.
If I can't borrow the device you recommend I will invest in one for sure.
Thanks again.
10-02-13, 01:17 PM
#6
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
I will take a look at the gauge again when I next call in, I can remember where the needle ended up so will recheck the scale.
I can remember all the readings were much the same so unless both banks have CHG problems they should be OK.
Having thought a little more it was 180PSI, when I checked one of the cylinders was down at 140 and I marked this on the engine but it was due to the connector not being fully tightened and rechecked OK.
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