camer0nn

Yup all replacement parts are OEM

Everything was torqued up correctly

I removed the cam pulleys again and found that yes, the lh cam seal is pinched... So off to get a replacement seal for that one

OMAHA

my car has crank seals, cam seals, valve covers leaking oil also......plus a power steering leak.....i have the work order posted on my page under "my albums"

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

isn't there a proper tool to push the seal in? a large socket perhaps can double as said tool?

camer0nn

I used the old cam seals to push the new ones in.
I placed the new one on the cam shaft then 2 old seals onto the cam shaft. Then tapped slowly into place and repeated on the other seal

LScowboyLS

the valve covers are often not worth the trouble or expense, the leak is typically very light - I only do them if oil is still getting down to exhaust manifold and making an annoying burnt oil smell after cleaning engine

power steering leak should be done ASAP to prevent alternator damage (and your RACK is not the source of any leaking )

cam & crank seals are very little additional labor when it is time to do a timing belt (might add another 1/2 hour or an hour tops)

racersky

iTrader: (2)

Is there a DIY on how to access the crank seal & cam seals? I have to do mine soon and I've seen the tutorial on the timing belt on LexLS.com but other than that I cannot find how to get to the crank seal and cam seal

LScowboyLS

the way you get to them, pretty much is the timing belt job! - so I would always do these two things together!

once you have everything disassembled ready to change the timing belt, then just remove cam pulleys to access cam seals, and remove crank pulley to access crank seal

I would not attempt this crank or cam seal job without a successful timing belt replacement under my belt in the past

racersky

iTrader: (2)

my question was does the timing belt pulley just slides right off or do i need a specific tool.

LScowboyLS

you need a special tool for each - this is clearly shown in the service manual in the timing belt removal section

I know you are not planning on doing a timing belt replacement or replacing these seals without the factory service manual, are you?

Aeok18109

i did most of this job without a FSM. Ive been working on cars since 2008. I know my way around an engine. This was my first timing belt/water pump job. it took FOREVER to do. If you are going to attmept to do this on your own i would highly suggest getting the FSM. I had to guess or research on stuff all the time and it was a giant pita!

My oil pump housing was leaking BADLY. thats where all my oil was coming from. redid the crank and cam seals along with dropping lower pan, and prying down as best i could to remove the oil pump without dropping upper pan (didnt have way to support engine from top at the time).

It was one hell of a learning experience and a much deeper appreciation for my car. before i did the job it was CLEARLY pushing out a quart a minute out of that hole in the bottom timing cover. it was FUBAR. now? not a drop of oil or coolant to be found anywhere.

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

Here's a GREAT thread to get you going with pictures and everything you need. It's explained very thoroughly and even gives hints which the FSM ( Factory Service Manual ) won't do.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...cement-how-to/

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...-seal-removal/

racersky

iTrader: (2)

I'm replacing everything like I try to mention before I'm looking at the tutorial on LexLS and he doesn't show how to remove the time belt pulley.

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

He has a red circle over the pulley bolt that you need to remove.

LScowboyLS

racersky

iTrader: (2)

Thank you for your help guys. Where can I buy the sst tool and do I have to buy that or could I use something else instead of buying that tool.