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Harmonic balancer / crankshaft pulley 1UZ-FE and 2UZ-FE... interchangeable?

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Old 08-16-13, 02:28 PM
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peterls
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Default Harmonic balancer / crankshaft pulley 1UZ-FE and 2UZ-FE... interchangeable?

I am trying to figure out this puzzle but had very little success so far, if anyone knows, please share:

- It seems that all the ls400 models share the same harmonic balancer, p/n 13407-50020 even if they look different.
- Now, it also seems that all Lexus/Toyota cars (GS, SC etc) with 1UZ-FE engine share the same harmonic balancer, even if the part number is different.
- To make it even more interesting, it seems that 2UZ-FE including the non-VVTI-i LX470 uses the same harmonic balancer, again with a different part number.

Or maybe not?

Is there anyone who can confirm this, in which case I can just buy whichever harmonic balancer I find for my gen1 LS400, and put that on, or perhaps I should stick to the original part #13407-50020? Anyone tried using a 2UZ-FE harmonic balancer on 1UZ-FE engine? I am thinking that if anything, they should be backwards compatible as all newer engines had more power, so the balancer would have to be more resistant to vibration... making it just fine for my first gen. LS400.

I could not find much about it on this or any other forum (with an exception of one other fellow who seemed to have gotten into the same dilemma but never cared to post a follow-up).
Old 08-16-13, 02:49 PM
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LScowboyLS
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although two parts may appear to be identical, in the Toyota world, if they are identical, they will have the same part number - some parts are used on dozens of different Toyota and Lexus models, and they will all have the same part number!

if two part numbers are different, you may think it is the same part, but it is not - it is an optical illusion!

Toyota does not give the same part multiple part numbers.

however, your correct part number 13407-50020 damper was used on a lot of Lexus V8 models, so it is a very easy part to find, and it looks identical on all of these models, because it is identical. - Do not use any other part number.

if the ones you are looking at look different, it is because some of them are not the genuine Toyota part!

Last edited by LScowboyLS; 08-16-13 at 03:02 PM.
Old 08-16-13, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
although two parts may appear to be identical, in the Toyota world, if they are identical, they will have the same part number - some parts are used on dozens of different Toyota and Lexus models, and they will all have the same part number!

if two part numbers are different, you may think it is the same part, but it is not - it is an optical illusion!

Toyota does not give the same part multiple part numbers.

however, your correct part number 13407-50020 damper was used on a lot of Lexus V8 models, so it is a very easy part to find, and it looks identical on all of these models, because it is identical. - Do not use any other part number.

if the ones you are looking at look different, it is because some of them are not the genuine Toyota part!
So, stick with 13407-50020 then.
Best deal I could find was on lexuspartsonline.com for $203.00
First - is that a legit dealer? Any experiences?
And second - any better deals out there?

Last edited by peterls; 08-16-13 at 04:51 PM.
Old 08-16-13, 05:23 PM
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LScowboyLS
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why in the world would this part need to be new?

you can find these all day long at www.car-part.com for $35 - $75

this place in Rancho Cordova has a good reputation

Last edited by LScowboyLS; 08-16-13 at 07:51 PM.
Old 08-17-13, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
why in the world would this part need to be new?

you can find these all day long at www.car-part.com for $35 - $75

this place in Rancho Cordova has a good reputation
That's what I have been debating about with myself: on one hand, this is a consumable type of item, the rubber does age and goes bad eventually, so I don't want to replace it only to have to replace it yet again...
On the other hand, maybe it is not that "consumable"? Maybe I can find one that will last a long time?
While on the subject, how hard is it to replace it? If I am understanding this correctly, I would just need to remove the serpentine belt and maybe the fan, right? Can I do that with only a pair of ramps, no lift?
Old 08-17-13, 12:03 PM
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I agree about the rubber, best to get a new damper, if money is not tight, I just talk to a lot of guys here who are on a shoestring!

and you need to remove a lot more than just the belt & fan, the radiator will have to come out for enough access for your impact gun, for example

removing it requires a high quality impact air gun, as it is on there and breaking it will require several hundred pounds of force, some people use the starter to remove it with a breaker bar, but I don't like that idea, as our starters are a pain to replace and a little iffy anyway - I recommend the Earthquake 1/2" gun at Harbor freight like he uses in this video below:

timing belt replacement time is a great time to do this job as it is a lot of the same work

it also need to be installed with a high quality torque wrench that will do 200 lbs. the spec is around 180 if I recall

in this video, he removes the crankshaft pulley from your same engine, at the 9:23 mark in this video

Old 08-17-13, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
and you need to remove a lot more than just the belt & fan, the radiator will have to come out for enough access for your impact gun, for example

removing it requires a high quality impact air gun, as it is on there and breaking it will require several hundred pounds of force, some people use the starter to remove it with a breaker bar, but I don't like that idea, as our starters are a pain to replace and a little iffy anyway

timing belt replacement time is a great time to do this job as it is a lot of the same work

it also need to be installed with a high quality torque wrench that will do 200 lbs. the spec is around 180 if I recall
I agree with doing the T-belt/WP job now. As much as you need to remove, why not. I've done my T-belt 3 times and only the first time I removed the radiator. To get the harmonic balancer off I used a breaker bar and a BIG screwdriver to jam the flywheel. Never use the starer to remove that bolt, very dangerous. Plus by that point of the job the battery is disconnected and maybe already out of the car. And yes, the install torque is 180 ft lbs.
Old 08-17-13, 01:49 PM
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The threads are reverse of normal threads as well. I have replaced one on an LS. It made it so much easier having a lift. There is a special tool to loosen the bolts http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/pr...-REMOVAL-TOOL/

With that tool you don't need to take very much off of the car. All you need is a hammer to hit it with. That bolt can be VERY stuck!!
Old 08-17-13, 01:54 PM
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When i've done Crankshaft pulleys, I used a trick I learned at the Lexus dealership i worked at about 7 years ago, with a chain wrench:



Bascially wrap a large slice of a used serpentine belt around the pulley to both provide better grip, and to keep it from being damaged. fasten the chain wrench and then turn the crankshaft until the handle of the wrench rests against a part of the cars frame. Get your breaker bar out and go to town.

Advantage is it allows you to pull crank pulleys off of cars in the junkyard, and it's useful in places where sometimes an impact wrench won't fit... .It's kind of strenuous though, as is it REALLY difficult ot break loose a crank bolt just by hand! I would use the impact tools to remove it if they are available.
Old 08-17-13, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by dc893
The threads are reverse of normal threads as well. I have replaced one on an LS. It made it so much easier having a lift. There is a special tool to loosen the bolts http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/pr...-REMOVAL-TOOL/

With that tool you don't need to take very much off of the car. All you need is a hammer to hit it with. That bolt can be VERY stuck!!
Apparently you posted this as i was typing my response... have you used that tool by chance? And if so, how does it work?
Old 08-17-13, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by YoshiMan
Apparently you posted this as i was typing my response... have you used that tool by chance? And if so, how does it work?
I wish I would have taken pictures. This should help though. It does take a lot of force with that hammer to get it to start and loosen up.

I was also told before I did mine that I needed a jaw puller to get it off. Mine just pulled off by hand after the bolt was removed.

You don't need to remove anything like the radiator with like this either. Maybe just the plastic intake piece above the radiator and of course the serpentine belt.
Attached Thumbnails Harmonic balancer / crankshaft pulley 1UZ-FE and 2UZ-FE... interchangeable?-pbt-70865lg.jpg   Harmonic balancer / crankshaft pulley 1UZ-FE and 2UZ-FE... interchangeable?-jaw-puller.gif  
Old 08-17-13, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by dc893
The threads are reverse of normal threads as well. I have replaced one on an LS. It made it so much easier having a lift. There is a special tool to loosen the bolts http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/pr...-REMOVAL-TOOL/

With that tool you don't need to take very much off of the car. All you need is a hammer to hit it with. That bolt can be VERY stuck!!
I dont remember the threads being reversed, although, it's been a while since I had mine off.
I dont know about that tool though. I'd rather spend $130 somewhere else and just use a breaker bar which has always worked great for me for over 35 years. It seems to me that when you hit that tool with a hammer it would still turn the engine unless ya lock the flywheel. Does it?
Old 08-17-13, 03:31 PM
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I think you are all doing it the hard way, taking out the radiator is literally a 5 minute job, and provides so much luxurious nice room to do the timing belt, and then it takes exactly 2 seconds with the air gun to pop off the crank pulley! - and due to the moment of inertia from physics, no "holding of the pulley" is required in the air gun case!

and don't use the excuse of not having a compressor, when home depot runs 8 gallon real oiled compressors for $99 on sale all of the time and you can stack a coupon on top of that to take away the tax, etc.
Old 08-17-13, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by deanshark
I dont remember the threads being reversed, although, it's been a while since I had mine off.
I dont know about that tool though. I'd rather spend $130 somewhere else and just use a breaker bar which has always worked great for me for over 35 years. It seems to me that when you hit that tool with a hammer it would still turn the engine unless ya lock the flywheel. Does it?
It does not. I have done this before.
Old 08-17-13, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
I think you are all doing it the hard way, taking out the radiator is literally a 5 minute job, and provides so much luxurious nice room to do the timing belt, and then it takes exactly 2 seconds with the air gun to pop off the crank pulley! - and due to the moment of inertia from physics, no "holding of the pulley" is required in the air gun case!

and don't use the excuse of not having a compressor, when home depot runs 8 gallon real oiled compressors for $99 on sale all of the time and you can stack a coupon on top of that to take away the tax, etc.
Yea, compressors are nice, and cheap sometimes. But when ya live in a small apartment with no storage it makes having one a little difficult. It was nice when I had my garage and everything I needed but in my divorce I lost said garage and all its contents. I look back now and, hey, it's worth it. MUCH happier now.


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