LScowboyLS

sounds like it is time for a fuel pressure test at the rail, after the fuel pressure regulator

Yamae

Judging from confirmations so far, we now need to check the the fuel pressure at the rail, I think too.

LScowboyLS

here is my favorite low cost fuel pressure tester with correct banjo bolt adapter for Lexus/Toyota!

BobSmith00

So got the Fuel Pressure tester in. Followed the instructions from the FSM

Well semi followed. I dont have the Handheld tester. But I did hook up the banjo bolt where it says to.

Some rain came that ran me inside, but hopefully it clears up in a bit and I can get some numbers.

I guess I have it hooked up in the right place, I don't really know. I think I do though.

BobSmith00

So checking the pressure where I did, where it says to remove the dampener. It says 40lbs as soon as the key is turned. Then as the car dies it jumps to 42lbs. Or it may jump right after the car dies. But anyway its hitting 40lbs dead on, then going up to 42.

LScowboyLS

I think it is time for the test below - go to the 5:53 mark in the video - this will test the coils, the igniters, and all associated wiring - watch the entire video for the theory portion if you like

you will need a T-pin from wal-mart craft department or any sewing or hobby shop (a whole box of them is like $2, a paper clip might work in a pinch)

BobSmith00

So again I'm going to show my lack of knowledge. BUT, that's a different car, and I'm not aware of where to do such things to my car.

Any knowledge/photos/etc would be helpful.

LScowboyLS

it is the same car, same engine, just previous generation - coils are in the same place, and igniters are in the same place - igniters may stacked rather than side by side, but that is of no consequence in this test

BobSmith00

I actually realized where I got confused.
There is this little black box, that someone had wrote "alarm" on the side of it, so I didn't think it was anything to do with the igniters.

Of course this was not the alarm, but the cover on the ignitors, that are stacked.

Now to figure out the rest so I can do the testing as outlined in the video.

I have a pdf file of the 1995 Wiring Diagram, but not the 1996, are these going to be similar enough to go by, or must I track down the 96 one?

BobSmith00

So I believe I did the test proper.
1) I found what I believe was the proper place to t-pin.
2) I ended up having to go to ground vs go to 12v. So the opposite of the video.
3) I ended up not getting the huge spark that guy in the video was getting, nor was I getting a spark every time.
What I got was a very small spark, every other touch or so. Or it may have been doing its thing every time just not as noticeable to really see, Maybe will try doing it at night and see how it looks.

So From that I do not know, anything more for the most part. Does it pass this test, I dunno,

LScowboyLS

the 95 wiring diagram would be fine, essentially no changes to 96, but not sure why you would need a wiring diagram for this test

Paul "Scanner" Danner just uses a wiring diagram in the video so that you understand the theory behind the bypass test!

LScowboyLS

I know it is frustrating doing all of these tests, but now you know why Lexus gets over $1000 before any parts costs when you bring your car to them in this situation!

BobSmith00

The only real frustrating thing is, my lack of knowing exactly what it is I'm doing. I used to design injection molds years ago, that was far easier than this. Granted I had training and knowledge in that field.

The car stuff I have a very base knowledge of, and I am willing to try to do most anything anyone can suggest that will point me towards a solution.

I've only had to take the car to the Lexus dealership one time. It was very costly, but there was a belt tensioner that needed replacing, and I didn't have the time, space, skills, tools, etc to do it.

And like 800 bucks later I drove away.

LScowboyLS

the next easiest test is probably to pull the ECU, carefully open it, and take some very high resolution pics of it, and a great deal of the time Yamae or I can spot either leaking capacitors, or an overheated switching transistor, or a burned resistor

another test that is a bit more work is to uncover enough of the timing belt to carefully rotate the crank clockwise only as viewed from front of car, and check to make sure that valve/ignition timing has not been lost via the marks on the pulleys and backing plates

a third easier test is the service manual tests of crank & cam sensors

and did you ever rescan this car for codes since having the negative battery cable disconnected overnight? (and subsequently starting it)

BobSmith00

Well I checked for codes again, nothing has ever shown up. The only code I know that ever came up was related to the O2 sensors I think behind the cat (if I'm remembering the words of the Lexus guy at the dealership)

I will read up in the service manual on these crank and cam tests.

That Timing belt test is maybe after the others I can give that a spin.

I can easily snap some photos of the ecu. I've got removing and reinstalling it down to a science. I would hope no caps would be leaking since it has a whole new set from digikey, but I dunno about the other bits and pieces you said. I can likely get those photos Wednesday.

I also been watching the "local" pull a part places, aka ones about 100 miles away, for when they get in the 95-97 ls400s, since maybe the ecu is toast, and who knows what else I may need to replace. The car being down for as long as it's been has already cost me a fair amount of funds, so I really am hoping at some point I can get it going again. Thanks again for all the help so far.