recomended aftermarket upper control arms?
05-29-13, 10:28 AM
#1
Recomended aftermarket upper control arms?
I am in the process of acquiring the parts needed to finish my suspension work. I already have the rear carrier axle bushes.
My plan is to use the ROCA urethane lower control arm bushing set and replace the whole upper control arm. Lexus wants $422 each for the uppers, which is crazy.
I am thinking Meyle or Beck/Arnley. Does anyone have any experience with these parts or recommendations?
My plan is to use the ROCA urethane lower control arm bushing set and replace the whole upper control arm. Lexus wants $422 each for the uppers, which is crazy.
I am thinking Meyle or Beck/Arnley. Does anyone have any experience with these parts or recommendations?
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 06-01-13 at 05:22 PM.
05-29-13, 10:46 AM
#2
beck/arnley is what im planning to use for UCA... I need to go through my lower control arm bushings and rear trailing arm i think. Felt some side to side shifting over bumps..
05-29-13, 11:10 AM
#3
Yeah, my lateral movement became more pronounced when I lowered the car. I purchased a set of Adus bushings off ebay. To my knowledge, the ROCA bushings are the only ones that make a urethane set for the front lower. Don't want poly up front.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 05-29-13 at 11:34 AM.
05-29-13, 11:21 AM
#4
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What year?
I have tried the B/A and the doorman (both currently on the car) on my 90'. The beck had no stop on the taper for the ball joint and looked a bit beat up. The castle nut also had no flare like the OEM and required a washer to be fully tightened. The doorman looked exactly like the OEM and had the stop on the ball joint taper and the flare on the castle nut and did not require a washer. Both have been fine for ~20k miles.
I have tried the B/A and the doorman (both currently on the car) on my 90'. The beck had no stop on the taper for the ball joint and looked a bit beat up. The castle nut also had no flare like the OEM and required a washer to be fully tightened. The doorman looked exactly like the OEM and had the stop on the ball joint taper and the flare on the castle nut and did not require a washer. Both have been fine for ~20k miles.
05-29-13, 11:33 AM
#5
What year?
I have tried the B/A and the doorman (both currently on the car) on my 90'. The beck had no stop on the taper for the ball joint and looked a bit beat up. The castle nut also had no flare like the OEM and required a washer to be fully tightened. The doorman looked exactly like the OEM and had the stop on the ball joint taper and the flare on the castle nut and did not require a washer. Both have been fine for ~20k miles.
I have tried the B/A and the doorman (both currently on the car) on my 90'. The beck had no stop on the taper for the ball joint and looked a bit beat up. The castle nut also had no flare like the OEM and required a washer to be fully tightened. The doorman looked exactly like the OEM and had the stop on the ball joint taper and the flare on the castle nut and did not require a washer. Both have been fine for ~20k miles.
The reviews for Meyle arms seem to be good. They are a German distribution company. Don't know who actually makes the arm though.
Other options are, Moog, Ac-delco, Raybestos, Mevotech, Dorman, Arnott, and Karlyn,
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 05-29-13 at 11:45 AM.
05-29-13, 12:19 PM
#6
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I would have happily bought Moog if it was offered for my year. Have used moog parts for years and never been disappointed. Raybestos is a fairly respectable name also. I would avoid Arnott like the plague, several first gen guys tried them and they were failing like crazy.
(Sig's don't come up with the mobile site, always good to post year)
(Sig's don't come up with the mobile site, always good to post year)
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05-29-13, 02:14 PM
#8
When i bought my LS400 I was in a bind and needed to replace my left control arm before taking her to california several days later. The only place that had a control arm immerdiately in stock was NAPA, and it was their in house brand "ultra-8" whatever the hell that is, however, I have had zero issues with it and it got rid of ALL of the play i had in that side. If i were to do it again, i would use MOOG as i also have had good luck with them is the past as well.
05-30-13, 04:51 PM
#12
It's relatively simple, but it does require that you remove the strut and spring, which isnt really difficult either. you will likely need an alignment afterwards as well, as anytime you screw with the suspension/steering, it will be off.
Basically involves pulling the tire, using a puller (a $14 one from any parts store will work perfect) to disconnect the steering knuckle from the upper control arm, unbolting the lower strut bolt, then the top 3 nuts, and sliding it out, then you can unbolt the two bolts holding the upper control arm in.
Make sure you secure the steering knuckle with a peice of wire or something to keep excess strain off the lower ball joint and some of the other parts.
Basically involves pulling the tire, using a puller (a $14 one from any parts store will work perfect) to disconnect the steering knuckle from the upper control arm, unbolting the lower strut bolt, then the top 3 nuts, and sliding it out, then you can unbolt the two bolts holding the upper control arm in.
Make sure you secure the steering knuckle with a peice of wire or something to keep excess strain off the lower ball joint and some of the other parts.
05-30-13, 06:11 PM
#13
I would have happily bought Moog if it was offered for my year. Have used moog parts for years and never been disappointed. Raybestos is a fairly respectable name also. I would avoid Arnott like the plague, several first gen guys tried them and they were failing like crazy.
(Sig's don't come up with the mobile site, always good to post year)
(Sig's don't come up with the mobile site, always good to post year)
05-31-13, 01:10 PM
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05-31-13, 10:07 PM
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