LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

Is sea 10w-30 oil ok for my 92 ls???

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Old 05-12-13, 10:47 AM
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LS400BOY
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Default Is sea 10w-30 oil ok for my 92 ls???

I just realized i put the wrong weight oil in my 92 ls it takes 5w-30 but i put 10w-30 i used gtx high milage sea 10w-30 part synthetic motor oil, should i be ok until the next oil chang or should i change it to the correct 5w-30 oil?
Old 05-12-13, 12:04 PM
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PerpLexusd
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yes that's fine, that's what I put in mine and it hasn't had any problems
Old 05-12-13, 01:23 PM
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Great so should i stick with 10-30 for now on or go back to 5-30 when its time to change oil,
Old 05-12-13, 11:54 PM
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Hodson
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5w-30 is what the manufacturer says to use, so what do you think the answer should be...? The only reason you should up the oil weight is if your car leaks lots of oil, as a higher weight (thicker oil) will leak less. At my last job some junkers would come in that took 5w-20 from the factory but were up to 15w-40 which is diesel oil lol. Use 5w-30 and check your oil level at your next service and see if you need to up it to 10w-30. Otherwise just listen to your owner's manual/oil cap.
Old 05-13-13, 12:09 AM
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yeahhh....you need to read your owners manual.

oil choice is linked to local climate. if it doesn't get too cold 10w-30 is fine.
Old 05-13-13, 10:16 PM
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Car didnt come with manual
Old 05-13-13, 11:04 PM
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LScowboyLS
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it would help us guide you to the optimal oil viscosity for your LS if you would tell us what city you are in (to look at the weather there) - and how much you burn between oil changes would be useful as well.
Old 05-13-13, 11:20 PM
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IM IN COLUMBUS GA SO IT GETS SUPER HOT/MUGGY AS HECKREALLY DONT KNOW HOW MUCH I BURN

Last edited by LS400BOY; 05-13-13 at 11:41 PM.
Old 05-14-13, 12:18 AM
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LScowboyLS
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10W-30 is actually better for hot Georgia than 5-30W, but either one will work

I would suggest using a full synthetic next time such as Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra, Valvoline SynPower, Castrol Edge, etc. and I would also drain and fill transmission with genuine Toyota T-IV fluid from the dealership (about 3 quarts) and use a new drain bolt and metal gasket (also from dealership)

The FRAM Ultra oil filter, p/n XG3614 is a pretty awesome oil filter and only about $8 at Wally World

T-IV fluid is about $5/quart and the drain plug & gasket are also about $5 for the set, at the Toyota dealer

Last edited by LScowboyLS; 05-14-13 at 01:06 AM.
Old 05-14-13, 04:28 AM
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python
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Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
10W-30 is actually better for hot Georgia than 5-30W, but either one will work

I would suggest using a full synthetic next time such as Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra, Valvoline SynPower, Castrol Edge, etc. and I would also drain and fill transmission with genuine Toyota T-IV fluid from the dealership (about 3 quarts) and use a new drain bolt and metal gasket (also from dealership)

The FRAM Ultra oil filter, p/n XG3614 is a pretty awesome oil filter and only about $8 at Wally World

T-IV fluid is about $5/quart and the drain plug & gasket are also about $5 for the set, at the Toyota dealer
wow..if ur not running synthetic now and have high mileage don't run straight synthetic..and btw fram filters are garbage..get urself a wix from napa.
Old 05-14-13, 04:39 AM
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j2b4o
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Originally Posted by python
wow..if ur not running synthetic now and have high mileage don't run straight synthetic..and btw fram filters are garbage..get urself a wix from napa.
Fram is garbage but switching to synthetic is a no risk all benefit change. All the hype about not mixing and not switching is unfounded and has been proven wrong several times over. Switching is commonly blamed for finding leaks the Dino oils left clogged but in reality synthetic has a habbit of cleaning the gunk and than conditioning the seals cutting down on leaks and leaving a cleaner engine.

I have switched numerous cars at varying mileage, a few north of 180k.
Never ever had a problem.
Old 05-14-13, 05:17 AM
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Thanks, j2b4o..
I was thinking of switching to synthetic on mine and just had not pulled the trigger... but will on the next oil change.
I know that filter choices can be very emotional for people and all of us have our favorite brands...but curious why we wouldn't just recommend the OEM? A case from Sewell prices out at $3.50 each... and that seems like a pretty good price to me. And they'll fit from 1990 up to 2006 LS models if I'm not mistaken.
Just curious.. Thanks for the info, though.
Old 05-14-13, 05:27 AM
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python
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Originally Posted by j2b4o
Fram is garbage but switching to synthetic is a no risk all benefit change. All the hype about not mixing and not switching is unfounded and has been proven wrong several times over. Switching is commonly blamed for finding leaks the Dino oils left clogged but in reality synthetic has a habbit of cleaning the gunk and than conditioning the seals cutting down on leaks and leaving a cleaner engine.

I have switched numerous cars at varying mileage, a few north of 180k.
Never ever had a problem.
cleaning the gunk is what causes the leaks
Old 05-14-13, 06:43 AM
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j2b4o
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I generally use OEM denso from rockauto ~3.50$ ea. when I run out or forget to order more i go with a napa gold(wix) or the nicer carquest (also wix). I haven't found a local source for the denso that isn't a PIA to get to from my house.
Old 05-14-13, 09:33 AM
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Thats what i was scared of using full synthetic and then finding leaks? Thats why i went part synthetic for now


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