PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

I'm a big fan of R1concepts. They use Centric rotors as the base and i've been running them (slotted and plain) on multiple cars over the years

Hiroshi12

iTrader: (1)

Been looking at R1's also. Rust issues?

bdan

You can hit up 88rotors in El Monte. They're pretty legit and everyone I know has rotors from there.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

mine are e-coated, but not any more than regular rotors I would think.

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

i recall your mentioning this in another thread and i agree!

i find that most OEM pads are generally very soft and wear quickly to necessitate a pad change early in it's life. this is how dealerships make money within say 5 years of ownership, among other crap that breaks just as the warranty expires. soft pads can surely make a rotor last very long. depending on driving habits, the rotors definitely should last the life of the car if properly maintained.

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

just installed a set of rotors from R1, on my friend's accord v6, and i can attest their quality with a decent price point. they have all the provisions for the rotor retaining screws, threaded extraction holes, etc. which i believe is important and necessary. i've seen too many cheapo rotors without them!

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

My brakes lasted 70,000 miles and none of the pad wear lights were on. The rotors looked great. I choose AKEBONO ProACT Ultra Premium Ceramic Pad. I think they are OE but these pads feel more aggressive

+1 to being happy with R1. I put a nice set of slotted / cross drilled on my old Sedona. Those rotors helped a lot.

That van needed a break job at 17,000 miles on the factory setup....

rick1987

iTrader: (1)

Is it true that the cross drilled rotors will crack around the holes?

Even those r1 rotors?

python

iTrader: (4)

ive had x-drilled on mine for 3 years and I don't have any cracks around the holes..but I brake long before I need to and never have to slam on the brakes..i also don't ride my brakes

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

cracks form around the holes on rotors that see excessively high temperatures, and that's usually only on cars being used on the track and road courses. a street car will never see those temperatures under normal driving conditions.

i always tell people to get blank rotors. one will never truly benefit from having slotted and cross-drilled on a street car. they are purely for looks. even on my dedicated track car i have blanks!

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

blank if you just want it to stop like normal, slotted if you want it to look a little better.

drilled i leave for higher end stoptech/alcon/brembo BBK multipiece rotors as they tend to cast the holes in, not drill them afterwards.