anesthesia

so my rear brake pads are about 3mm, getting ready to change them out, currently car break fine no problem, questions I want to ask is, is resurfacing needed on rotor? I feel it's just a waste of metal on rotor if the rotor is fine.

rome99LS

U can prolly just change the pads...but you cant resurface the rear rotors only the front. So either replace them or dont anything at all but just the pads.
Its becuz the rear rotors are too thin as is.

usoff89

iTrader: (2)

The proper way to tell would be to measure the rotors. But a visaul inspection would do just fine. If they don't look worn and you dont have any "warp feeling" in your braking, I would say just replace the pads. If you wanted to, I think you can get new rear rotors pretty cheap.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

the rear rotors can be resurfaced, but there are tolerances that need to be maintained just like any other set of rotors.

I tend to cut them if there's ANY ridges/grooves as those will hinder proper pad bed-in.

Kansas

Always resurface the rotors. I have the original factory rotors on my 00 LS. When I last checked rotor thickness at about 150,000 miles or so, they measured the same as when the car rolled out of the factory. The front pads on my car last about 70,000 miles and I had the rear pads replaced for the first time at something like 125,000 miles. The rears could likely have gone another 10,000 miles.

anesthesia

Kansas, those are very impressive numbers. I will take it to napa and just have them turn it, I think they charge $10/ rotor. Will go with oem pads.

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Like Kansas, ours has the original rotors now at 180K. If the tech is good they don't need to take lots off, some of these shops can be pretty heavy handed.

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

you can resurface the rotors. the shop doing the work usually does a thickness test to see if there will be enough metal after the resurface. they shouldn't even start the work if the tolerance will not be met.

i never knew these rotors lasted this long. 150k on the original rotors?! that's pretty cool, you guys must be very gentle with the pedal.

Kansas

By the way, 3mm pad thickness is still well within spec. I would wait as long as there is no or little pulsing.

Kansas

Not really. Most people could get far more miles out of brake pads if they changed them at the manufacturer's minimum thickness spec instead of way early. A Lexus dealer service writer (Superior Lexus of Kansas City) once told me that I was endangering my family by not replacing my brake pads when the pads were still far from worn out. Brake jobs are gravy for many dealers and repair shops - some would have you replace them as often as they can con you in to doing it.

I'd be careful of having a NAPA store machine your rotors - as RA40 said, some shops and amateurs get carried away when grinding on rotors. I think the reason my rotors measured like new at 150K is that all three brake pad replacements (2 front, 1 rear) and rotor machining operations had been done by an indie repair shop specializing in Lexus that is owned by a former Lexus dealer service writer I've known and trusted since the mid-90's.

Buy measuring calipers and measure the thickness of rotors and pads yourself - don't rely on anybody to tell you that your rotors or pads are worn out. I've carried the pictured calipers in my jacket pocket since I purchased them in the 1970's - amazing that I haven't lost them along the way. If you can't reach what you want to measure with your calipers, one trick is to use some stiff wire to gauge the thickness and then to use your calipers to measure the wire.

anesthesia

Thanks Kansas, for great reply, exactly as you mentioned, I took my car to Lexus dealer for oil service since I had a coupon discount, and they went ahead and check rear break and said I should replace them, I didn't want them to do becoz they quoted me around $420 for rear, which I thought were a lot but it is the stealership. Now that you mention I'm still within spec. I will hold off for another 10k mile. Thanks again Jim for your guidance

python

iTrader: (4)

cracks me up people attach mileage to pad/rotor life..if my car gets towed around all the time I will get great life out of my brakes...meaning it is all up to how u drive. someone who commutes with little to no traffic will of course get a lot more from their pads/rotors..constant city driving is another story...braking habits also come into play as well as the dreaded 2 footer method

RA40

iTrader: (6)

True. For us in So. Cal, the car is constantly braking to the stop-go, way different than if it were freeway. Well, So. Cal freeways are same as stop go anyway. LOL. As a general indicator with varied driving, the 60K intervals are ball park for most conditions for brake service.

Same can be said for tires. I was just telling a buddy that about mileage and that on the summer rubber, he said I wouldn't go beyond 25K. The BFG KDW II and Yokohama S-Drives went north of 40K miles. These Continentals can't be flipped so I anticipate less.

rome99LS

So the rear rotors can be Lathed but I would definitely check the minimal thickness as they are already thin. I always just took the easy route n replace them. But you can go either way. Aslong as they haven't got to metal on metal, then def replace them.

LScowboyLS

gonna have to kinda disagree here with "always"

recently changed my pads front and rear, rotors were smooth as glass, and there is absolutely no pulsing in pedal or anywhere else when brakes are applied, and stopping distance is as good as when car was new, so tell me again why, in my case, that I need to resurface my rotors that are apparently in fabulous shape?