cobalt91

Crank at TDC or zero on crank pointer, cam marks should be at ten and two oclock. There are reference marks on the backing plates for the cam pulleys. Ignore the marks on the timing belt. There only used during installation of the timing belt.

python

iTrader: (4)

just cuz u can pull things apart and put em back doesnt make u a diag specialist..huge difference between r&r and diag'ing a car..anyways good luck and keep us posted

LScowboyLS

adrenelin5

I'll be the first to agree. I'm nowhere near a diag specialist but that's o.k. that's why you guys are here.

I was able to remove the cam pulley covers, the tensioner and then pull the belt from the right cam. I then realigned and checked the cam / TDC positions . After 2 rotations of the crank it is still aligned. Just need to reassemble and see if she blows up. If it skips again I think I just need to replace the tensioner. If not, great.

LScowboyLS

if you have truly "jumped time", then you had better be replacing the timing belt & tensioner at a bare minimum!

that just doesn't happen as a random occurrence, like static electricity - lol

adrenelin5

I'm going to just put her back together for now. If it jumps again I'll replace the tensioner and belt. The belt looks very good with very little to no deflection and the ribs are also in good shape. Crossing my fingers.

Today when turning the crank I found a piece of plastic from the cam cover wedged betweeen the belt and crank. Makes me wounder if that is how it skipped in the first place.

Ashamed to say but last week when I was doing the alternator I lost my patience and hit the cover with my wrench . The cover cracked to pieces and that is where I believe it came from.

LScowboyLS

you need to tape that up with duct tape or even better, that metal HVAC tape, as all of the timing belt covers are very important for keeping foreign substances out of the timing belt area

sam12345

iTrader: (1)

Exposed timing belt do it

adrenelin5

O.K. I got the belt back on and it is off by one tooth on the RCAM? The LCAM and TDC are perfect. Do I need to adjust it or is that close enough. One other thing I was wondering was should I be able to move the piston back and forth on the tensioner or is it supposed to be that stiff?

LScowboyLS

no, it should not be off anywhere, and one tooth off is not "close enough"

- hey watch that top video in post #69 above, the one where the guy does the full timing belt job, he does a pretty damn good job actually, except he needs to learn what a torque wrench is, but I think everything you want to know is in that video, practically!

by the way, did you reload the tensioner like he did in the video with a c-clamp?

cobalt91

The tensioner should be hard to move. You dont want the belt to jump.

adrenelin5

No unfortunatly I didn't know that trick. Do you know if that piston should fell solid if you tried to push down on it? It is very very solid. Basically I tried to push it in by trying to use the ground and my weight and it didn't budge. Does that sound about right?

LScowboyLS

yes, that is why he has to use the C-clamp

now you got to do it again because it's tooth off, see why I suggested a new belt & tensioner at a minimum?

PS: if you want, I can find you a much cheaper price on those two Toyota parts than the dealership, if you want me to locate them online for perhaps 1/2 price. - or just get that full kit, which is the right way to go! - did you watch the whole video?

adrenelin5

I have an idea though. I have a bolt that is the same thread but longer than the ones in the tensioner. I'll remove one bolt on the tensioner and replace it with the longer one. Then remove the opposite side. When reinstalling, the long bolt will already be in there which makes it much easier to reinstall. If it skips again which I don't think it will I'll go from there.

LScowboyLS

you have to have correct tension from the tensioner, to make everything line up - so the tensioner has to be reloaded, and then released after it is installed, as well as the timing belt cannot have stretched, nor can the tensioner be out of spec, or things will never line up.

you have to get to the bottom of why it "skipped" in the first place, these things don't just happen for no reason.

did you ever watch the full 30 minute video in post #69 above?

he shows you a couple of tricks