PlotPoint

There's trans pan seepage and I want that fixed, plus it's due for an ATF change. I took a look at the lexls.com tutorial and he says you can do either after you get the trans pan off -- buy a new oil strainer (part number 35330-50010, which I think is around $35 OEM), OR just clean it.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/trans...anschange.html

The car is first gen so that oil strainer has been in there a long while. Does it need to be replaced? As far as I know the trans pan isn't dented up or anything so I am not replacing the pan itself. Just cleaning everything out and putting in the Toyota recommended fluids.

One other question...do you all use both a gasket and the Toyota recommended seal/packing stuff on the first gen lexus ('91), or use only the seal/packing. The lexls tutorial says to use Three Bond 1281 or equivalent.

FYI, the car has about 100K on it now.

If the oil strainer can be cleaned, what would we use to clean it with? There's no time to let it air dry (I am having lots of maintenance done all at once), so maybe I should just buy the part.

2GSKaizen

iTrader: (1)

If I am correct (please correct me if i am wrong guys), you just use the recommended sealant from Toyota. I do not think there is even a part # for a pan gasket. if it were me, I'd spend the money on a new strainer for piece of mind as I'm not thinking that part is really meant to be cleaned and re-used. If you are having the pan pulled down, don't put it back up without replacing that strainer. It's just a good idea since you are already in there.

LScowboyLS

agreed - you don't need a 20 year old strainer in there that might be about ready to disintegrate! - just get the new one

and for future reference, when you are just doing drain & fill - Toyota recommends replacing BOTH the drain bolt & metal gasket on each change, they actually consider the bolt as a sacrifice to get good sealing, so I know it sounds weird and unnecessary, but the bolt & metal gasket washer are only about $5 total at Sewell, and it is worth it to not worry about a leak - I skipped the bolt replacement and got a leak, won't do that again!

the Toyota part numbers are 90341-10011 (bolt) and 35178-30010 (metal gasket washer)

LScowboyLS

where are you getting the strainer for $35?? (more like $40)

hotdawwg

Oreilly's has a Trans filter for $20. Works just as good

LScowboyLS

Sorry, I ain't putting Chinese mystery mesh into my $7000 Aisin A340E transmission, thanks, but I will just pony up the extra $20 every 100K miles!

hotdawwg

To each his own....

LScowboyLS

here is an expert answer:

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

i've had too many sealing issues with paper/cork gaskets on toyota trans pans, stick to the right kind of toyota FIPG with proper application and it lasts a good long while.

PlotPoint

[QUOTE=LScowboyLS;7651540]where are you getting the strainer for $35?? (more like $40)[/QUOTE

A few days ago I did a search and found one at that price, but did not write down the source (just made a note of the price in my cost estimate spreadsheet). So I can't verify that it's avail at $35 (and it's possible I was not looking at the correct part...I probably googled it by make/model and part name, not part number that time).

Anyway, this morning, all the searches are coming up at $40ish, as you say. The place where I am ordering the parts quoted me $44, which is a few dollars mroe than most, but that's OK, since I am not being charged for shipping (due to the size of my parts order).

Can't thank everyone here enough for the great info. So yes, I will buy this part, no problem, and also get that bolt (already have the gasket). Thanks all!

PlotPoint

saved me a lot of time looking up that bolt parts number. working off an older computer (the new one crashed!) and it's slow as molasses. so the detail is very much appreciated.

PlotPoint

Thanks. I'd be tempted, but by the time I pay s/h for a single parts order I would not be saving that much. May as well go with the OEM.

billydpowe

iTrader: (1)

knowing that you cant drain all the fluid out with the pan off, would/should you change the fluid FIRST, using the flush method at the radiator, or change the strainer FIRST, and then the flush?
what do you think??

PlotPoint

Those are great photos. I never did find a gasket for sale (pre cut like that) so I am not sure where he got that. I've got the FIPG on order so will give this packing stuff one more try. Though I'm ready to go the gasket route if a leak develops again after this fix. Nothing worse than having to worry about whether you need to check the trans fluid levels.

PlotPoint

I'm having to redo a previous 'leak fix' after only three years. It was the first time the trans pan had been dropped and I am wondering now if it never will be as buttoned down as it was when it came off the production line. FIPG was used for the fix last time, but my guess is that it was not properly applied. We'll see. I am opting for seal packing one more time.