knowing that you cant drain all the fluid out with the pan off, would/should you change the fluid FIRST, using the flush method at the radiator, or change the strainer FIRST, and then the flush?
what do you think??
I would think a flush followed by dropping the pan would be the better bet. Or do the drain the pan every 3 - 6 months and don't drop anything. I am liking this method the best. No flushing and consistent supply of new fluid seems great to me. 2 new quarts every 6 months seems like a dandy way to keep her happy. I remember a member, who I thought had a transmission shop said that Aisin recommended this. Unless there is a reason to drop the pan better off just replacing the fluid consistently. Same principle with the oil pan.
The gasket I used was the one in the photo below. It was contained in the carton box printed FEL-PRO at the middle and it was also contained in the bigger and thicker one at the bottom when shipped. This is an American way of shipping a part I understand. They definitely need to learn more to save energy and cost. Actually I needed to pay more than 15 times of the part cost for the shipping charge.
"Toyota FIPG with proper application" is surely the best as PD has mentioned. It has to be applied as is below but I had no confidence to do that properly and precisely.
A manager of the dealer once confessed to me when I requested him to do the job,"I hate the FIPG. It requires us to wait for hours as well as it's not easy to apply by hands precisely. We often had some complains after the job. I wish there would be a good genuine gasket to avoid the risk and save the time." Actually he requested me to come next day to pick up the car.
I have also talked to a guy who was a supervisor of my company. He mentioned, "It requires some try and error every time we set up the FIPG applying robot."
My conclusion was to use a gasket which was made of a good material and do the job myself. In old days, paper/cork was used for gaskets but there are some better materials these days. I dare used the one above paying for the extra shipping fee. So far there is no more leak and also the transmission is working perfectly now.
if ur unaware of the maint. done on the car..then remove the pan and filter, get the kit,and fluid from the dealer,it cant be that much more. do as the dealer suggests and whatever they give u for replacement parts...i suggest u use those parts.once this service is done..then u will need a fluid transfer done.this will get all the old fluid out
Hours? Did someone at a dealer say that it takes hours for this FIPG stuff to "set"? How long do you all wait? It's a bit of a trek to where I am taking the car for maintenance and repairs. Sounds like I could be stuck there for awhile.
actually, just look at Yamae's photos earlier in this thread, if you want to see the FIPG found in his transmission pan - and Toyota specifies FIPG for off-venicle transmission repair, not on-vehicle service which is what the discussion is about here.
If you were assembling a transmission in a clean, off-vehicle environment, and had a boroscope to inspect your work, and could therefore avoid the oil contamination of the sealing surface or the FIPG itself issue, and the FIPG squeezed out into the pan horror, then it would be great, but that is hardly the case for CL members, and besides, when I worked at the Lexus dealership, there was no transmission building going on, just drain & fill or complete transmission replacement with a factory reman unit.
the most invasive surgery I ever saw inside the dealership service department was the valve spring replacement recall on the 2007-2008 models and it was nearly overwhelming for even the most seasoned techs, and even they had to go for intensive training first.
I think I just found my answer. 1 to 2 hours before you should even start the engine, and 15 or 16 hours for the seal to completely cure. So in other words, let the car sit there overnight and don't put the new ATF in until the next morning.
YES! - this extractor will work just fine, however, I don't really see the point since it only will extract what is in the pan, and you can do the same thing easier by just using the drain plug!
if you want to get out more fluid, say 4 quarts rather than the typical 2, I will let ya in on a little secret, let the tranny drain from the drain plug for full a 24 hours!
PS make sure to use a NEW drain bolt, as well as a new metal gasket (the pair is like $5 total) as per Toyota in the service manual instructions, I have skipped the new drain bolt and gotten a leak as my punishment!
If you go the extractor route, and you want to remove 4 or more quarts, extract as much as you can, wait 24 hours with car uncranked, then extract again
Yamae - I have used this exact Fel-Pro gasket, and they are very good about NEVER leaking, and the undersized holes make the whole job super easy, the only bad thing is that the next time you ever do this job on this car, you are going to be crying, because that FelPro gasket is harder to remove than FIPG by far!
I've done this one both my Lexus cars, on my IS300 just as maintenance, the dealer didn't want to sell me a strainer/filter they said they just clean them out. Inspection both times on that car revealed all is well. I used Permatex The Right Stuff FIPG and after removing it once, never again. Scraping that stuff off and cleaning the mating surfaces was a pain. Next time I'm getting a filter+gasket.
On the LS400, I found myself with a drivability problem, the car wouldn't shift, slow in reverse, just rev up, etc... I misdiagnosed as an ignition coil problem, turned out to be a really clogged tranny filter/strainer, fluid looked perfect and smelled normal. Fine metal shavings covering the mesh/screen not allowing fluid through. Duralast filter from Autozone came with gasket, has been fine since.
Ditto the 07 Camry I did for my buddy, auto store filter and gasket, fluid change and his car has no leaks and fixed all weird shift/drivability issues he had. Dealership didn't want to sell him tranny fluid even, claimed WS fluid is lifetime. Yeah, more like shortened lifetime and planned obsolecence.
I wonder if the condition of the transmission screen (whether or not it is clogged up) can be easily seen with a borescope through the drain plug opening. I don't want to drop the pan if I don't have to. I assume it's the original 15 year old screen on it.