All my crazy Lexus issues SOLVED!! (ECU-leaking capacitor)
05-28-15, 06:15 PM
#1126
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thank you!!!
i had 4 misfiring cylinders, no power off the line, possessed rpms, horrible shaking, missing shifts, and funny smell sometimes.
changed the caps with help of your detailed guide and my car finally drives!
i had 4 misfiring cylinders, no power off the line, possessed rpms, horrible shaking, missing shifts, and funny smell sometimes.
changed the caps with help of your detailed guide and my car finally drives!
05-28-15, 11:53 PM
#1127
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None of your link works by my computers, DETONATION.
I have tried to access using 2 different computers, a Linux one and a Windows7 one. Were you sure you linked properly?
As long as I search the Net, Panasonic capacitors can be found at below.
http://industrial.panasonic.com/lecs...A0000PE370.pdf
Why don't you search the Net all by yourself if you want to contribute Aristo 2jzgte owners?
Those who expect others to do and don't act themselves can't help others, I must say.
I have tried to access using 2 different computers, a Linux one and a Windows7 one. Were you sure you linked properly? As long as I search the Net, Panasonic capacitors can be found at below.
http://industrial.panasonic.com/lecs...A0000PE370.pdf
Why don't you search the Net all by yourself if you want to contribute Aristo 2jzgte owners?
Those who expect others to do and don't act themselves can't help others, I must say.
My apologies for pming you for opinions rather than posting it on this thread.
Perhaps I should have not used the word contribute, if you and LS have really already done all the work. What I meant was that, once confirmed, I would like for the part numbers to be added to the first post as with the rest of the LS400/Celsior repairs.
06-02-15, 09:22 PM
#1128
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Symptom, car sometimes can start and some time start and stall within seconds. When engine start and run, it cough and engine shacking.
Replace all capacitors, engine sometimes start and sometime start and stall. However if it get started engine run smooth.
Repair immobilizer, engine starts every time, regardless of cold or warm engine and it runs smoother than before changing capacitor.
Thank you Yamae-San and LS cowboy.
Regards.
06-03-15, 10:44 AM
#1129
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Good points. You wrote the best post in the thread regarding the selection and the worry to the stability. I can see how you feel. Some people have even suggested to use ceramic capacitors without knowing the Bode plot and the risk. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bode_plot
The availability of Nichicon PJ series is extremely low and I needed to find some others available. If you are able to purchase the PJ series, why don't you try those?
As I have checked different capacitors picking up in the market, some of latest low ESR capacitors were OK to use. The stability of the error amplifier relies on the phase rotation and the remaining gain of it. As far as I have tested listed capacitors, those had margins to begin to loose the stability. Some ceramic capacitors were still OK but quite marginal, I found.
Speaking of TEAPO, a Taiwanese company which used TEAPO capacitors many for their products had problems in the North American market due to the capacitor's quality issue and finally the company was bankrupted, I remember. As LScowboy knows and suggests, it is wise to select and use Japanese major brand capacitors purchasing from reliable sources.
The availability of Nichicon PJ series is extremely low and I needed to find some others available. If you are able to purchase the PJ series, why don't you try those?
As I have checked different capacitors picking up in the market, some of latest low ESR capacitors were OK to use. The stability of the error amplifier relies on the phase rotation and the remaining gain of it. As far as I have tested listed capacitors, those had margins to begin to loose the stability. Some ceramic capacitors were still OK but quite marginal, I found.
Speaking of TEAPO, a Taiwanese company which used TEAPO capacitors many for their products had problems in the North American market due to the capacitor's quality issue and finally the company was bankrupted, I remember. As LScowboy knows and suggests, it is wise to select and use Japanese major brand capacitors purchasing from reliable sources.
I found all the needed PJ series at Mouser. Surprisingly, the 15μF 35V doesn’t exists, event in the PF datasheet
so I’ll buy the 50V one.I’m still don’t know if I should buy the PJ or the KZE. The PJ will be fine of course because they are the PF substitutes and the characteristics are very close, so they are like the factory ones.
But maybe the KZE will smooth even more the ECU voltage. Or maybe not, because I’m convinced Nichicon or Nippon Chemi-con had better ESR/ripple current series back in the 90’s than the PF, and the engineers didn’t use them.
Yes the Tantalum capacitors are great, but in the automotive environment, they are not the best. I wonder what type of capacitors they use in the satellites and Aerospace stuff. It would be funny to go there every 10 years just to change electrolytics!!
Anyway, I will change all the electrolytic capacitors in the LS400, from the instrument cluster to the ABS, including transmission computer, radio, Airbag, etc…
Just to bring a little more info I can give, not all the Toyota ECU's use low ESR caps, my ’97 Toyota Corolla (EE111) use the Chemi-con KME series which is a multipurpose capacitor
06-05-15, 04:41 PM
#1130
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capacitor issue
06-06-15, 01:03 PM
#1131
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...-by-yamae.html
If the pinouts for running this test do not conform to the LS400, my next suggestion would be to pull the ECU and visually inspect the capacitors for leakage. The capacitor spec will be imprinted on the side and recording each one you'll be able to search for the replacement values using the similar series as listed in the first post for replacements. Higher values are also acceptable and Yamae can further advise.
06-06-15, 06:09 PM
#1132
Moderator
I don't know es300 nor rx300 because those were not sold here on this end. Toyota dare used those QAS capacitors in the late last Century aiming to get a good capability of ripple and noise rejection even at low temperature especially for cars that had 6 cylinders or more and the processor's job was heavy and complicated.
They considered that it was a must to use QAS capacitors for those cars. Otherwise some internal tests were not passed. Nichicon seemed to have some confidence to provide QAS capacitors with countermeasures such as specially coated legs and the special sealing rubber. Those were quite effective but not fully effective for a long term use.
Those QAS capacitors are marked PR(M) or PF(M). You can easily recognise those. Open the ECU box and see electrolytic capacitors. If you find those capacitors, simply replace them in accordance with the post #1 because they are now old enough. Other than LS400, there are many Toyota and Lexus cars and all you need is to replace them selecting from recommended capacitor series, if marked PR(M) or PF(M).
They considered that it was a must to use QAS capacitors for those cars. Otherwise some internal tests were not passed. Nichicon seemed to have some confidence to provide QAS capacitors with countermeasures such as specially coated legs and the special sealing rubber. Those were quite effective but not fully effective for a long term use.
Those QAS capacitors are marked PR(M) or PF(M). You can easily recognise those. Open the ECU box and see electrolytic capacitors. If you find those capacitors, simply replace them in accordance with the post #1 because they are now old enough. Other than LS400, there are many Toyota and Lexus cars and all you need is to replace them selecting from recommended capacitor series, if marked PR(M) or PF(M).
07-11-15, 09:10 PM
#1133
Intermediate
Very grateful for this thread. 
Sent my ECU out to an expert, who found 5 leaking capacitors.
I would have been worse had I waited much longer, but even as it was, some of the boards trace wires were damaged and almost unrepairable (which you can see in the pic).
Car runs stronger and the idle when the a/c is on is much better.
Skip
Sent my ECU out to an expert, who found 5 leaking capacitors.
I would have been worse had I waited much longer, but even as it was, some of the boards trace wires were damaged and almost unrepairable (which you can see in the pic).
Car runs stronger and the idle when the a/c is on is much better.
Skip
Last edited by wnyjazz; 07-11-15 at 09:29 PM.
07-12-15, 07:00 PM
#1134
Moderator
Very grateful for this thread.
Sent my ECU out to an expert, who found 5 leaking capacitors.
I would have been worse had I waited much longer, but even as it was, some of the boards trace wires were damaged and almost unrepairable (which you can see in the pic).
Car runs stronger and the idle when the a/c is on is much better.
Skip
Sent my ECU out to an expert, who found 5 leaking capacitors.
I would have been worse had I waited much longer, but even as it was, some of the boards trace wires were damaged and almost unrepairable (which you can see in the pic).
Car runs stronger and the idle when the a/c is on is much better.
Skip
Incidentally, what made you to decide to replace capacitors?
Any serious problems?
Many people decide after having problems and some are too late to fix because of the non fixable trace damages.
Some do pro-actively and notice the better drive feelings. 
07-12-15, 09:31 PM
#1135
Intermediate
Hi Yamae,
No serious problems...the car has about 225K miles on it and is driven daily. We bought it sight unseen off ebay in April 2011. It even survived a nasty collision last year.
There is some deferred maintenance that will be done next month like plugs, wires, caps and rotors etc.
After reading a lot of posts in this thread, it just seemed extremely likely my ECU would have leaking caps as well. Our board was real close to being unfixable.
Thanks again Yamae for yours and Cowboy's great help keeping these cars going strong.
No serious problems...the car has about 225K miles on it and is driven daily. We bought it sight unseen off ebay in April 2011. It even survived a nasty collision last year.
There is some deferred maintenance that will be done next month like plugs, wires, caps and rotors etc.
After reading a lot of posts in this thread, it just seemed extremely likely my ECU would have leaking caps as well. Our board was real close to being unfixable.
Thanks again Yamae for yours and Cowboy's great help keeping these cars going strong.
07-16-15, 11:36 AM
#1136
I think my sc may also have this issue. (1998 SC300, 150k miles)
Problem 1. Sometimes it doesn't start right away. When I turn the key, all I get is one click and no starter crank (starter replaced a few days ago ). A few days ago I tried for an hour until it finally started. Most of the time it does start though.
Problem 2. Clock on the dash stopped working correctly. It displayed the digital hour and minute and the colon in the middle was blinking like it should, but it did not change the time. It just stayed at the hour and minute it was set at. All of the sudden, when I replaced my starter, the clock started working again.
Problem 3. My transmission doesnt shift that smoothly. Its not bad, but I feel the gear change between 1 and 2 and it seems like it slips into 4th. (I read on the first page that it may be the capacitor)
Problem 4. Yesterday, when I took the key out of the ignition, my windows and sunroof continued to work. They stopped when I opened the driver's door (I did not open the passenger door). It stayed like that for 10 minutes. I tested it later and it worked as it should again (windows and sunroof did not move when the key was out of the ignition).
Ive never had any problems with this car and all of the sudden I am getting all of these electrical issues, and I have a feeling that it may be caused by one thing. What do you guys think?
Problem 1. Sometimes it doesn't start right away. When I turn the key, all I get is one click and no starter crank (starter replaced a few days ago ). A few days ago I tried for an hour until it finally started. Most of the time it does start though.
Problem 2. Clock on the dash stopped working correctly. It displayed the digital hour and minute and the colon in the middle was blinking like it should, but it did not change the time. It just stayed at the hour and minute it was set at. All of the sudden, when I replaced my starter, the clock started working again.
Problem 3. My transmission doesnt shift that smoothly. Its not bad, but I feel the gear change between 1 and 2 and it seems like it slips into 4th. (I read on the first page that it may be the capacitor)
Problem 4. Yesterday, when I took the key out of the ignition, my windows and sunroof continued to work. They stopped when I opened the driver's door (I did not open the passenger door). It stayed like that for 10 minutes. I tested it later and it worked as it should again (windows and sunroof did not move when the key was out of the ignition).
Ive never had any problems with this car and all of the sudden I am getting all of these electrical issues, and I have a feeling that it may be caused by one thing. What do you guys think?
07-16-15, 07:50 PM
#1137
These capacitors were used in many cars and the possibility does exist. The 2JZ was not used in the LS so we can only speculate. My suggestion would be to check for any readable error codes. In that absence I would suggest pulling the ECU to visually inspect the capacitors.
07-20-15, 10:08 PM
#1139
Moderator
As far as I know, for non US and non JPN market, following ECUs were used for UCF10 between 08/92-10/94.
ID code / Date used / Market
89661-50160 08/92-10/94 EURO, ARL, SINGAPORE SPEC
89661-50180 08/92-10/94 ARL, GENERAL, HONGKONG SPEC
89661-50190 08/92-10/94 EURO(LHD). AUSTRIA SPEC
89661-50200 08/92-10/94 VAN
89661-50210 08/92-10/94 EURO(RHD)
ID code / Date used / Market
89661-50160 08/92-10/94 EURO, ARL, SINGAPORE SPEC
89661-50180 08/92-10/94 ARL, GENERAL, HONGKONG SPEC
89661-50190 08/92-10/94 EURO(LHD). AUSTRIA SPEC
89661-50200 08/92-10/94 VAN
89661-50210 08/92-10/94 EURO(RHD)
07-23-15, 11:11 AM
#1140
Driver School Candidate
Hi guys, i have a 1990 ls400 and i wanted to know if the ECU from a 1992 ls400 would work in my car. I dont have trac control either. I recently did the tune up changing spark plugs, ignition wires, caps and rotors, valve cover gasket, engine oil filter and gasket and transmission filter and gasket. I have been having a low idle issue which is keeping me stressed while driving on freeway. When car is cold the rpm is high as normal but once the car is warn the rpm goes to the 2nd needle from 0. And seems like it is going to stall but never stalls. Please help or any suggestions will be appreciated. I did alot of research and i am confused if i shud get the fuel pump checked or replace the ECU?
As far as I know, for non US and non JPN market, following ECUs were used for UCF10 between 08/92-10/94.
ID code / Date used / Market
89661-50160 08/92-10/94 EURO, ARL, SINGAPORE SPEC
89661-50180 08/92-10/94 ARL, GENERAL, HONGKONG SPEC
89661-50190 08/92-10/94 EURO(LHD). AUSTRIA SPEC
89661-50200 08/92-10/94 VAN
89661-50210 08/92-10/94 EURO(RHD)
ID code / Date used / Market
89661-50160 08/92-10/94 EURO, ARL, SINGAPORE SPEC
89661-50180 08/92-10/94 ARL, GENERAL, HONGKONG SPEC
89661-50190 08/92-10/94 EURO(LHD). AUSTRIA SPEC
89661-50200 08/92-10/94 VAN
89661-50210 08/92-10/94 EURO(RHD)