Avenged42

Would it cause low idol and extreme over fuel issue? Mine is using a full tank of 98 octain in 130km or less and I can't figure out what it might be

GSPEED1973

i have a 1993 sc400 with all the symptoms described on page one of this thread...my ecu part number is 89661-24240. will the capacitors described in this thread can be interchanged into the sc400 engine ecu? if not i just bought a back up ecu for $69.00 and hopefully will get the car roadworthy enough to get it back home.

Supraman24

Yamae or Cowboy,
can you tell me if the following replacements are accurate? they are the closest i came up with from post #1

95 Toyota Supra non turbo automatic - California Spec
ECU 89661-14560 - California Spec

I found 7 Capacitors total - all Nichicon
Nichicon H9333 10uF 50V 105C x 2
Nichicon H9335 47uF 63V 105C x 1
Nichicon H9331 220uF 16V 105C x 1
Nichicon H9332 15uF 35V 105C x 2
Nichicon H9332 100uF 10V 105C x 1
I have no idea if the "H" #'s are a part # or what, i found them on each capacitor, thought i would list it.



10uF 50V 105C x 2 *10uF 50V Chemi-con KZE EKZE500ELL100ME07D*
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...1702-ND/756218
digikey part #: 565-1702-ND

15uF 35V 105C x 2 *15uF - the 63V Chemi-con KZE EKZE630ELL150ME11D* this one seems pretty high voltage compared to original
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...1718-ND/756234
digikey part #: 565-1718-ND

47uF 63V 105C x 1 *47uF 100V Chemi-con KZE EKZE101ELL470MJC5S* or should I use *47uF 63V Panasonic FR EEU-FR1J470B*
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...1734-ND/756250 or http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...5CT-ND/3072165
digikey part #: 565-1734-ND or should i use digikey part #: P15285CT-ND

100uF 10V 105C x 1 *100uF - the 35V Rubycon ZLH 35ZLH100MEFC6.3X11* this one also seems pretty high voltage compared to original
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...300-ND/3134256
digikey part #: 1189-1300-ND

220uF 16V 105C x 1 *220uF 50V Panasonic FR EEU-FR1H221* This one seems a very high voltage compared to the original
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...458-ND/2433592
digikey part #: P14458-ND

Much appreciated!

Yamae

See capacitors again. Can't you recognize characters PF(M) or PR(M)?
If yes, you'd better to change them because those contain the liquid QAS which prone to leak when aged corroding the leg badly and eats traces.

Regarding the high voltage capacitors, read the post #1 again. You will be finding the reason why. It's because of an availability issue.

Supraman24

Hi Yamae,

Thank you for replying. I apologize for being over cautious. I just wanted to make sure because finding a replacement ECU is impossible. They just don't have any new or re-manufactured ones available for a California spec ODB1 Supra non turbo with automatic.
My car actually runs fine, I'm hoping replacing the capacitors will solve my check engine light issue. It's telling me code 71, which is the EGR System. I've replaced the EGR Vavle, EGR temp sensor, the EGR modulator with brand new OEM toyota parts and it still throws code 71. Living in California with our smog laws and regulations my options are limited. They will not pass my smog until I can solve the check engine light issue.

Thanks!
Shane

python

iTrader: (4)

i had a code 71 and it ended up to be a vacuum line was cracked. when u replaced the egr valve did u clean the passages?

Shobai

G'day all,

I've got an Australian delivered 1992 LS400 and am investigating this ECU capacitor issue. I've had a look at the caps in my ECU and I was wondering if someone might chime in with more info for me.

The ECU in my car has the part number 89661-50070. I'm at least the 3rd owner, so I can't be sure if that's what it was delivered with, but I don't think it's much of a worry.

Inside I can see only 9 electrolytic caps. These are all 'Jamicon' brand - my suspicion is that someone's already had a go at replacing the caps.

On the first board, I have

C715 - 22µF 63V
C716 - 22µF 63V

On the second board, I have

C108 - 220µF 16V
C102 - 10µF 63V
C104 - 10µF 63V
C106 - 100µF 16V
C809 - 47µF 63V
C824 - 47µF 63V
C828 - 47µF 63V

In the lists in the OP, I see that 10 or 11 caps should be found, and none of them are 22µF. I'm hoping that someone knowledgeable will be able to tell me what I should actually have in these positions.

Cheers!

Yamae

The only thing I can say is that Toyota never has used Jamicon capacitors.

Other than that, my colleague has once evaluated those foreign capacitors and found none of them were acceptable.

Shobai

Thanks Yamae, I appreciate your input. That was my understanding also; when I cracked it open and didn't see Nichicon, my suspicions were aroused. Since few of the capacitors in there are a direct match for the caps listed in the OP, I'm guessing they've been replaced. I'd like to repopulate it with low ESR capacitors, even if just for peace of mind.

Do you know which values go where? My guess is that they used 22µF in place of 15µF, would that be a reasonable assumption? I'm not worried about the voltage rating differences, as long as the replacements are rated at least as high as the original.

I'd really like to confirm values and locations before I go putting it back together, but I haven't been able to find clear pictures so far - does anyone have a list of what goes where for the 90-92 LS ECU? I'll have another look through the thread, but if someone could link me I'd really appreciate it!

DK Audio

I replaced all the caps in my 98 LS400 with 150k. All of my issues remain.

-My check engine light turned back on after a day of driving (L and R bank catalyst below threshold)
-My speedometer sometimes still sticks at 0 (must be the lubricant on the needle)
-My car still idles low while at a stop and makes the car pulsate, even the RPM needle moves up and down slightly.
-AC compressor still doesn't turn on, must be an AC leak.

Also, on my 98 this was the most delicate PC board I have ever worked on! I work for a lighting control company and soldered everyday for almost 4 years (I now work in the office). I am a great solderer, have my AAS in electronics and still tinker with them all the time. Be warned, the pads and traces can lift extremely easy on this board (at least my 98). On the non polarity cap the entire via and pad on the back came off! I brought the cap lead to a surface mount resistor on the backside that the trace went to. Hopefully this cap wasn't connected to internal layers or the top side, I did not see any trace on the top side for it. This was NOT lack of skill on my part, I have worked on computer motherboards, replaced cell phone parts, countless boards for my company, etc. I was completely comfortable soldering and could not believe how delicate this board was. All the low ESR replacement caps went in fine. Also, my big 330uf high reliability cap I could not replace. The cap was mounted all the way down and was formal coated to the board, it would not budge.

Yamae

The major symptom of the initial failure for 98-00 is the AT shift issue as far as I have experienced. Yours are totally different from it.

Seria

Hello LSCowboyLS and Yamae,
Wow very interesting thread. You guys have spend tremendous of time.

I am new to this forum. My car has develop some weird problems and upon searching i come across your thread.

My car is :

Toyota prado 3.0 diesel turbo A/T
Chassis: JT111GJ95000XXXXX
engine: 1KZ-TE
manufacture 1996

Problem:
A). Airbag light stays on
B). Fuel needle will slowly go to full once the engine is switch off (regardless whether fuel tank is 1/4 fill or 3/4 fill), however when the engine is running fuel needle pointing to the correct position.
C). Random not starting
D). Often hard to start regardless whether engine is warm or cold

If it crank and engine not fire up (running), the DTC code was 99 - engine immobilizer. Do nothing but leave the car say for 6 hours or so and the engine fire right up. At this point no DTC code. Once fire up, engine run fine with lots of power, A/T shifting is normal, fuel needle showing correct position, idling at 750 to 800 rpm, A/C is working, the only thing is airbag light stays on.

I open up the ECM and found no leak from all 7 capacitors. Reading through this thread it's life time is up and needed changing. However 2 of the capacitors were not listed in post #1. This is because it's a prado and not a Lexus. But I need great help to identify which is the replacement capacitor.

Here is ECM detail.
89661-60560
175800-1723 12v
26p 16p 22p
1 KZ-TE A/T

Capacitors are (it has the infamous Nichicon PR(M) and PF(M):

1) C004
100 uF 10v Nichicon PR(M) A9730 105 deg C
will use the 100uF - the 35V Rubycon ZLH 35ZLH100MEFC6.3X11

2) C014
220 uF 10v Nichicon PR(M) A9723 105 deg C
will use the 220uF 50V Panasonic FR EEU-FR1H221

3) C51A
100uF 50v KME 78 S(3) (M) 105 deg C
will use the 50V Panasonic FR EEU-FR1H101 OR
the 50V Chemi-Con KZM EKZM500ELL101MHB5D

4) C521
1 uF 50v KME BP 78 S(3) (M) 105 deg C
There is no polarity on the capacitor.

5) C201
3.3 uF 50v Nichicon PR(M) A9723 105 deg C

6) C001
33 uF 35v Nichicon PR(M) A9720 105 deg C
will use the 33uF - the 35V Panasonic FR EEU-FR1V330

7) C011
47 uF 63v Nichicon PF(M) H9732 105 deg C
will use the 47uF 100V Chemi-con KZE EKZE101ELL470MJC5S OR
the 100V Panasonic FC EEU-FC2A470 OR
the 63V Panasonic FR EEU-FR1J470B

As for 4 and 5 could you please recommend which capacitor to use ( yes, I double check they are 1.0 uF 50v and 3.3 uF 50v). I have study your capacitor selection chart but has no clue what i am looking at. It's difficult for me.

Appreciate your help.

Regards.

Yamae

I'm not familiar to your car Prado but what I can say at least is that Nichicon PF(M) and PR(M) contain the liquid QAS and are prone to leak when aged. You'd better to replace them before the leaking problem starts.

I'm sorry I have never worked on any Prado cars and I can't provide you any practical information. I just can say that try finding low ESR series of capacitors from following series. Rubycon ZL or ZLH / Panasonic FR EEU or FC EEU / Chemi-Con KZM or KZE.

GSPEED1973

inside the sc400 ecu

another shot of the same board

capacitor set i bought off ebay

this thread have been very informative!!! as stated in an earlier post, my car is a 1993 sc400 non-tracs and it had all the symptoms described in the beginning of the posts. i had a chance to get the engine ecu since i had to go and help my daughter move out of her college dorm by next weekend. i was curious and took the cover off while i was there and sure enough i found a blown capacitor and upon further inspection, there was another. i do have the capacitors and while i did purchase them off of ebay, i think i found a reputable seller and hope these are the correct ones, if not, i will have to install them and try to get the car home so i can do the proper repair later. can someone chime in and tell me if they are the correct capacitors??

Seria

Hi Yamae-San, LScowboyLS,
I searched in Digi-Key website and came up with:

For 3.3 uF, 50v capacitor, below is the link. Can i used anyone of these?

http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...0314-ND/266323

http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...9-1-ND/4319996

http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...1888-ND/589629

As for 1.0 uF, 50v - no polarity
Please help which one shall i used.

My capacitor detail is:
1.0 uF 50v KME BP 78S(3) (M) 105 deg C

Thank you.