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Cold Air Intake on a 93 LS 400

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Old 09-12-12, 09:20 AM
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Corey6310
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Default Cold Air Intake on a 93 LS 400

so i have an LS 400 and the stock intake was messed up , hose connectors were broken along with the boot and a lot of other stuff. So i spent 50 bucks on a cheap chrome plated plastic cold air intake from oriley's, drilled holes for the hose connectors and everything is air tight and sounds good but my problem is when the car is under load like going up a steep hill or accelerating fast it looses power for not even half of a second then keeps going does anyone know what this is? i reset the ecu but i couldn't tell a difference. also can you guys show me some pics of cold air intakes on a 1993 LS400 because i cant find any pictures at all...
Old 09-12-12, 11:13 AM
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SkulCracka
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the stock air cleaner is a a cold air intake. so hook that part back up. also double check you didnt mess up the conection to the MAF. also you might want to make another hole in that new intake pipe for that big plastic box you removed. under load is has reserved air in it to help with suden bursts of throttle. its there for a purpose.
Old 09-12-12, 01:57 PM
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Corey6310
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I know what you mean but i paid 500 bucks for the car and the original intake is really messed up if i put the original back on ill loose 50% of my air from all the holes and cracks
Old 09-12-12, 02:33 PM
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RA40
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May not be directly related to the intake but the TPS, MAF and like. Any codes/warning lights?
Old 09-12-12, 10:11 PM
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Corey6310
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Originally Posted by RA40
May not be directly related to the intake but the TPS, MAF and like. Any codes/warning lights?
theres always been a problem with my MAS but the spark plugs and wires are old so im goin to replace them and buy some cleaner for the MAS and ill get back to you
Old 09-13-12, 01:28 AM
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cobalt91
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Dont clean the MAF. You might ruin it. It is very sensitive to solvents. I think this aplies to 90 to 96 iirc.
Old 09-13-12, 10:35 AM
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RA40
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Do the basics like plugs, wires, caps and rotors first. Usual suspects to a ruined MAF is an over oiled K&N filter but you would have more and obvious symptoms of that. Poor gas mileage, stumbling, etc.
Old 09-13-12, 09:16 PM
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PureDrifter
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Originally Posted by RA40
Do the basics like plugs, wires, caps and rotors first. Usual suspects to a ruined MAF is an over oiled K&N filter but you would have more and obvious symptoms of that. Poor gas mileage, stumbling, etc.
most K&N issues occur after a filter has been re-oiled by the end-user, and either too much is applied or it isnt adequately dried after oil application.

I've never personally seen a BNIB K&N filter screw up a MAF.


89-97 LS400s have karman vortex AFMs, and work differently than a hot-wire MAF.
Old 09-13-12, 11:28 PM
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RA40
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Would the alcohol based type cleaners not pose as much a risk of damage when spraying the MAF sensors then?

Thinking of K&N, the people who oil them must go crazy with the sprayer. The times I used the K&N, I don't recollect seeing an oil trail on the intake piping of my cars.
Old 09-14-12, 05:58 AM
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Daprex
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Doesn't it take some time for an ECU to relearn after you change something like this? I know its one of the biggest downfalls for putting them on certain cars, especially if it was not specifically engineered and tested for that make and model. I was under the impression CAI's can produce lean A/F ratios initially, and depending on the vehicle and ecu learning capability, it may not adapt?
Old 09-14-12, 02:50 PM
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the MAF specific cleaners work alright for hot-wire mafs, but a gentle wipe with a clean,slightly moistened cloth is frankly the absolute most i would do to an AFM. It's an optical sensor so the biggest issue is just dust/dirt.
Old 09-15-12, 09:07 AM
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Corey6310
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
the MAF specific cleaners work alright for hot-wire mafs, but a gentle wipe with a clean,slightly moistened cloth is frankly the absolute most i would do to an AFM. It's an optical sensor so the biggest issue is just dust/dirt.
so im probably gonna sound like a dumb A** but i looked at the MAF and there's no wires just plastic?? the sensor its self is just plastic, i didn't touch it I lust cleaned the small gasket that holds it in place. Its gonna be a week or two before i get plugs cause there a little more than i thought. $106 for the wires and $58 for plugs... but i found something out, when I turn on the etc power beside the shifter it doesn't surge or jerk like it did before. i know the etc power is for driving up mountains or for high speed driving but what does it really change? wouldn't that allow more air and adjust the tps differently?
Old 09-15-12, 10:27 AM
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SpencerT
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Originally Posted by Corey6310
i know the etc power is for driving up mountains or for high speed driving but what does it really change? wouldn't that allow more air and adjust the tps differently?
I dont think so. If it did I think the engine would rev faster in neutral and it does'nt.
iirc power mode raises shift points, increases the cars likelyhood to downshift, and raises the transmission fluid pressure.
Old 09-15-12, 01:09 PM
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etc=electronic transmission control, no effect on engine mapping, though in '98-00 cars it did have an effect on the throttle.

Line pressure is not changed afaik, just shift points and willingness to hold a gear+shift down.
Old 09-15-12, 01:12 PM
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cobalt91
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If it runs better in ETC mode, maybe the shift solinoids are sticking.


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