Brake ?
#1
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Location: FL
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Brake ?
I have read the DIY's on brakes here and see some people change pads & rotors without bleeding the brakes. I have changed pads on cars in the past by just pushing in the piston and putting in new pads. Is this hurting anything? I want to change out the warped rotors on the car and figure I may as well change the pads while I'm doing it. I have never bled a brake system and always have bad luck with systems like that. I'll let someone else do that. But I figure I can save some $ doing the rotors and pads myself.
#2
No need to bleed the brakes, unless you have air or water in the lines. The only benefit would be pushing some of the heat-exposed brake fluid out of the system periodically, which is not a bad idea. But most drivers don't get their brakes that hot, so its usually not necessary.
#4
Super Moderator
iTrader: (6)
For the most part unless the brake reservoir cap is cracked allowing moisture-air to react with the fluid, it isn't overly critical. Over time, as the brake fluid absorbs more water the fluid properties will change and deposits will begin to form. If confined to the top reservoir, not as big a deal to suck it out then bleed as normal. Don't bleed/push this stuff through the TRAC and ABS actuators. This is a non-circulating system so the worst stuff is in the reservoir. I bleed mine every 30-50K as I feel. Pretty easy if you have someone to pump the pedal.
#5
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Location: FL
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks again! and another ?. Should I open the reservoir cap when I push the pistons back in to allow the brake fluid level to rise? Anyone use Napa, or other auto parts stores rotors? Have been looking on line and seems you can get a better product on line but I really want to get this done this weekend so I don't have time to have shipped.
#6
I recently did my front brakes and I used pads from Checker. I had the rotors turned for about $15 a piece. I've always removed the cap on the brake reservoir when pushing the caliper pistons. Don't forget to get the brake pad wear indicator, if your car is equipped. Mine were on the passenger side brakes. Mine is a 1995 LS
#7
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Location: FL
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Did the brakes and rotors this weekend. Pretty easy job. Took me longer to get the driver side wheel off than the whole brake job due to the key lug nut being stripped I have a question though. The spring clip that acts as a cotter pin for the two pins on the caliper. In the center where it comes to a point. That fits into a hole on the caliper? One side was like that and one side wasn't. I think but couldn't remember for sure? The side that wasn't looked as if that spring could work it's way loose? Anyone know if that's the way it's supposed to be? Maybe fine either way. But putting that V into the hole looks like it would make the pin impossible to work free.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post