margarita

Hi All --

What would be reasonable for an indie mechanic to charge for labor on a fluid change on the rear differential? The lexls tutorial says it should take about 30 minutes. I would supply the fluids.

Second question: If I combine both transmission pan reseal (it's leaking) with the rear differential service, what would be reasonable for labor for both those items done together?

The last time I had those two things done together the labor was only $60. I realize that was three years ago, so what would be the current rate?

Thanks in advance for any estimates.

ocr

iTrader: (2)

Arround the same price.. maby only $15 more

LScowboyLS

1/2 hour of labor time is plenty generous (it is basically a 5 minute job if you have a lift) however, indie mechanics need to make a profit on parts, materials, AND labor to survive!

margarita

Really? Only 5 mins? The lexls tutorial shows that to get to the differential it's kind of in a tight space. If it's really only five minutes, that will make a difference in whether I agree to his price or negotiate. He doesn't have a lift, btw.

Also, he asks for the customer to supply the parts. It's how he works. I think he is a mobile mechanic.

margarita

Also want to know if a trans pan reseal fails within three years of being fixed, would you take it back to the mechanic and expect they would 'make good' on their work?

I drove the car for 15 years on the original transmission pan seal, and when it finally failed, I took it to an experienced mechanic and paid a more than fair price to have it fixed. I expected the reseal job to last a good long while, like the original seal did.

Three years later, and now it's leaking again. I looked at my old invoice and see that he did not charge me for a gasket, which means he probably 'just' used sealant.

I think his warranties are generally for one year only, but there is no reason I can think of for this to fail again except for sub standard work.

The car has not even been driven all that much since it was resealed, maybe 6K per year, if that.

LScowboyLS

5 minutes refers to the rear end oil change only and this assumes proper tools & a lift, and what kind of mechanic that is actually in business doesn't have a lift? - one that will be out of business soon, because with many car repair jobs, a lift is NOT optional

LScowboyLS

and yes, a transmission pan seal should never leak, it sounds as though someone used screwdrivers or other prying instruments to get it apart, or a substandard gasket, or improper torquing technique or tension

margarita

so are you saying it would be reasonable to ask him to redo it? it's been 3 years. if he did such a crap job maybe it's not the best idea to go back to him, come to think of it.

i do remember him saying that it was hard to get apart. i wonder if the pan itself was damaged if he pried on it. i will probably never know. as i said, i don't think he put on a gasket because there was no charge for that part on the invoice. he usually charges for parts. i think he used only sealant, but I am not positive.

margarita

he's a mobile mechanic (can't bring a lift with him). he should be able to get to that area if it's jacked up enough.

if a lift is really required, then i need to find someone else.

on that transpan seepage, i'm wondering if it would make sense to have him wipe it off and snug down the bolts? maybe the plug drain worked loose in the three years since it was done? ever heard of such a thing?

LScowboyLS

transmission pans do not "work loose" - that's why there are 22 year-old LS400's that the pan has never been off of, and are not leaking.

if it is leaking after 3 years, it is one of the reasons I outlined above, or several of them - if he had trouble getting it apart, it is very likely he ended up prying on it, a BIG no-no

find a different mechanic, one with a very good reputation, from other Lexus owners

hopefully he has not damaged the sealing surface on the transmission side, if the pan is damaged from prying, that can be replaced with the original Lexus part for around $100 or so online (part cost is around $100)

a careful inspection around the perimeter of the pan will reveal any prior prying, but again, you need someone with a lift and a good light in order to get a good look

save the mobile mechanics for emergency use only, there is a reason that good mechanics have a SHOP

now the leak may very well be at the drain bolt sealing area, this is quite common, because on an LS400, both the metal gasket AND the bolt are NOT supposed to be reused - you need to completely clean the exterior of the pan, so you can figure out definitely where it is leaking from - a new bolt & gasket combined cost is around $5-6 at the dealership, make sure the sealing surface around the bolt is very flat and smooth

margarita

Ok, thanks so much. I think I have enough info now to know how to proceed. No, not going back to the original mechanic, and I am not a happy camper that I have to go through this again (plus possibly shell out for a new pan). Yes, I will make sure any new repair is done properly this time. Saving all your info and will put it to good use. Tx. again.

ocr

iTrader: (2)

I have thought about being a mobil mechanic.. except I would want to have a large trailer that has a lift on it. I think people would love to be able to have the shop come to them, insted of having the car towed to the shop. Let's say ur drive axle brakes and you have a mechanic with a mobil lift come and put the car up in the air on the side of the road where it broke at.

ThomasGS4

iTrader: (19)

Sounds good in theory, although it means less than ideal working conditions, not to mention charging people a gas fee to get to them.

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

rear diff is very straightforward, so the pan replacement will be more labor intensive which will result in more labor fees. anything under $100 with those two jobs is considered a good deal to me, labor only. you have to consider fluid draining, refilling, recycling, etc. when doing it yourself.

ditch2

changed mine out in 30mins the other day