SpencerT

are the steps to remove the front shocks on my 95 ls400 the same as the first gen or in the lexls tutorial? http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/suspension/fshock.html

Is there a good tutorial somewhere for the 2nd gen front and rear shock replacement?

PK_Celsior

iTrader: (18)

yes the tutorial is the same for the 95 - 97 ls400 the rear you will have to remove the interior rear seats

SpencerT

Thank you. Thats what I thought.
And I found a tutorial to convert the air suspension for the 95 and that has me confident enough to do it. I dont have air suspension but it will work.

PK_Celsior

iTrader: (18)

its not to bad of a job for our ls400!! just make sure to spray everything down with wd-40 if you dont have an air compressor or a wrench with a pretty good length pipe to break those bolts off!!

SpencerT

I have all of the above and will be doing it at my job with a fairly equipped mechanic shop.
So this shouldnt be too bad.

If I take my back seat out beforehand, any idea how long this should take for front and rear?
My bolts will probably be pretty rusty.

awdandrwd

iTrader: (1)

I dealt with rusty bolts. I managed the fronts in maybe 4-6 hours, but the rears took a week or so to do, working nights as I'd get a bit of time. Rust sucks.

Just saying this so you are ready in case it's not all smooth sailing.

Stan

SpencerT

Thanks for the heads up. Which bolts were the worst for you?
could you drive it half completed?

awdandrwd

iTrader: (1)

The worst for me were rear shock lower bolts. The left rear one was locked in by rust, would spin but not come out. Both of my rear springs were snapped too, the highest coils broke off and were stuck in the tophats.

I'd attack the fronts first. The stock springs are long, getting them on the new shock will take some work, too.

Stan

awdandrwd

iTrader: (1)

I use PB Blaster instead of WD40. Also, I put anti-seize on all bolt threads, makes future work much easier.

Stan

SpencerT

We have plenty of pb blaster and free so thats covered.
And im doing a complete sway to kyb and tanabe df210 with all new insulators, bumpers and mounts.
A shop will put them together so I wont even have to mess with that.

I dont plan to do it this way but do you think there would be a problem if I lowered the front first then drove for a day or two before doing the rear?

awdandrwd

iTrader: (1)

It should be fine, it's only an inch drop. I rode on Eibach fronts with GR2s with rears stock for almost a week.

Stan

SpencerT

I did the front today in 2.5 hours. It wasnt bad at all with an impact wrench. I think this job would be impossible without one.
Tomorrow Ill do the rear. Back seats are out already.

Is there anything more to it than removing the lower shock bolt and 3 shock mount bolts? Or are there other steps like in the front?

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

if you want to do the rears without removing an axle or disconnecting a ball joint, take a big pry bar and lever the entire carrier down after removing the bolts holding the spring/shock in place, then feed the lower part of the assy. towards the inside of the car (centerline) and that way you can pull it out flat.

SpencerT

I am not nearly mechanically inclined enought to understand that. Can you dumb down those instructions for me?

And removing a ball joint isnt that big of an issue. I rented the ball joint puller kit from advance auto to do the front and I still have that.

SpencerT

scratch that. I know what you mean.
I thought the front might be possible withought removing the ball joint too.
is that so?