Studio 2.1 Camber Adapters Installed
03-08-12, 05:17 PM
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: MN
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Studio 2.1 Camber Adapters Installed
a few people asked for me to post up pictures of the install of the Sudio pieces that I got recently. Big thanks to Mike from Original-Garage for all the help and answering my questions. These pieces are very easy to install. I've never worked with a product that literally lines everything up before you bolt it in, haha.
Here are the tips that I was given and that I have after installing the camber adapters;
-threaded side goes to ball joint, and sleeved side goes to the knuckle.
-bolt up the knuckle side first.
-one of the bolts that goes into the knuckle goes into a close end. The bolt is a few MMs too long and should be ground down slightly before you install and tighten all the way.
As I said, the install was easy and took me and a friend 30 minutes to do each side. What we weren't expecting is how low the car would be. The camber you get with these plates is definitely a lot, but the drop is even more. I had to re-work my fenders on the spot to get the car driveable at this height. Also, my factory 16s won't clear the tie-rod anymore. The back of the wheel hits the tie-rod.
Here are a couple pics of the plates installed:
Now here is a photo of my car prior to the camber adapters:
Here is a shot after the camber plates. All I installed were the camber plates. Keep in mind, my car is NOT on coilovers or bags:
the car drives fine. I still need an alignment to get the toe sorted (prior issue), and I'm surprised my UCAs don't hit my shock towers. If anyone is selling, I am looking for a rear SS kit now
Here are the tips that I was given and that I have after installing the camber adapters;
-threaded side goes to ball joint, and sleeved side goes to the knuckle.
-bolt up the knuckle side first.
-one of the bolts that goes into the knuckle goes into a close end. The bolt is a few MMs too long and should be ground down slightly before you install and tighten all the way.
As I said, the install was easy and took me and a friend 30 minutes to do each side. What we weren't expecting is how low the car would be. The camber you get with these plates is definitely a lot, but the drop is even more. I had to re-work my fenders on the spot to get the car driveable at this height. Also, my factory 16s won't clear the tie-rod anymore. The back of the wheel hits the tie-rod.
Here are a couple pics of the plates installed:
Now here is a photo of my car prior to the camber adapters:
Here is a shot after the camber plates. All I installed were the camber plates. Keep in mind, my car is NOT on coilovers or bags:
the car drives fine. I still need an alignment to get the toe sorted (prior issue), and I'm surprised my UCAs don't hit my shock towers. If anyone is selling, I am looking for a rear SS kit now
03-08-12, 05:59 PM
#3
looks great! i just hit up kyle for a set but alas there are none in stock atm. i'm curious to see what you meant by the stock wheels not fitting due to the tierod? aren't you simply moving the knuckle out, thus the tierod end should follow? please explain more if you can.
03-08-12, 06:12 PM
#4
looks great! i just hit up kyle for a set but alas there are none in stock atm. i'm curious to see what you meant by the stock wheels not fitting due to the tierod? aren't you simply moving the knuckle out, thus the tierod end should follow? please explain more if you can.
RCAs are meant to correct roll center by spacing the lower pivot (LBJ) to compensate for a lowered car's geometry (and in the case of an NRCA, to angle the spindle for more camber). you lose wheel clearance depending on the thickness of the RCA, but gain suspension travel and proper steering/suspension geometry.
the classic thickness for an RCA is ~15mm as back in the day cars werent lowered much more than an inch or 2, but with modern cars (and older cars with modern suspension) being lowered much more, 20 and 25mm RCAs are becoming common. However, RCAs don't really help correct roll center (and fix bump steer!) when used to LOWER a car. the correct way to use them is to install them, and raise the height of the coilover or air suspension (original intent on the LS anyways, for suspension controller equipped cars) the thickness of the RCA. this way the ride height stays the same, and roll center is corrected.
03-08-12, 06:30 PM
#5
Pole Position
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: MN
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
looks great! i just hit up kyle for a set but alas there are none in stock atm. i'm curious to see what you meant by the stock wheels not fitting due to the tierod? aren't you simply moving the knuckle out, thus the tierod end should follow? please explain more if you can.
03-08-12, 06:32 PM
#6
Pole Position
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: MN
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RCAs are meant to correct roll center by spacing the lower pivot (LBJ) to compensate for a lowered car's geometry (and in the case of an NRCA, to angle the spindle for more camber). you lose wheel clearance depending on the thickness of the RCA, but gain suspension travel and proper steering/suspension geometry.
the classic thickness for an RCA is ~15mm as back in the day cars werent lowered much more than an inch or 2, but with modern cars (and older cars with modern suspension) being lowered much more, 20 and 25mm RCAs are becoming common. However, RCAs don't really help correct roll center (and fix bump steer!) when used to LOWER a car. the correct way to use them is to install them, and raise the height of the coilover or air suspension (original intent on the LS anyways, for suspension controller equipped cars) the thickness of the RCA. this way the ride height stays the same, and roll center is corrected.
the classic thickness for an RCA is ~15mm as back in the day cars werent lowered much more than an inch or 2, but with modern cars (and older cars with modern suspension) being lowered much more, 20 and 25mm RCAs are becoming common. However, RCAs don't really help correct roll center (and fix bump steer!) when used to LOWER a car. the correct way to use them is to install them, and raise the height of the coilover or air suspension (original intent on the LS anyways, for suspension controller equipped cars) the thickness of the RCA. this way the ride height stays the same, and roll center is corrected.
Trending Topics
03-09-12, 01:50 PM
#14
Pole Position
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: MN
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
like I said, I have never worked with a product that fit so flawlessly.different strokes...
give me a few months and I'll have it looking good again. Just need to re-work my fenders, smooth everything out and paint.
you would be correct. I'll probably remedy that at some point, lol.
me too...I need to find a shop by me with an in-ground alignment rack, haha
03-15-12, 04:48 PM
#15
my intention is not to thread-jack but to provide futher support for the parts in question. along with other supporting mods to the front, i have been running 1.5inch STUDIO RCAs for about 8+ months now and i love them!
Suspension-PBM Coilovers
Front Wheel Specs- 19x9 et 0
Camber-(-11)
Daily Driven
Suspension-PBM Coilovers
Front Wheel Specs- 19x9 et 0
Camber-(-11)
Daily Driven