LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

WTF!!! Brand new pads and rotors CAUGHT ON FIRE!!!

Old 02-17-12, 06:22 PM
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AirForceRa
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Default WTF!!! Brand new pads and rotors CAUGHT ON FIRE!!!

Aight so I just put new front rotors and pad on the Lexus. Reason being was that front was shaking really bad the farther I drove ther car and when I hit the brakes. I knew it was the brakes due to the fact that last night before I put the new rotors and pads on the passager front rotor was gloing red before I changed them out. I figured either that rotor was warped or craked. So last night I changed rotors and pads. Drove it last night no probs. Drove it to work no probs. No shaking nothing. After work tho on the way home a couple blocks from the house I started to smell what smelled like brakes burning. Cant to a stop sign noticed lil bit of smoke coming from the right front. Got home and lil more smoke. I figured hmmmm maybe they are just wearing down a lil cuz there brand new and what not. Anyways tonight I left to auto zone and couple blocks from the house hit a stop sign and saw lil more smoke. Took off down the road and about after a mile or two I I thought to myself maybe I shold pull over and check out the brakes. Pulled out got out rotor was BRIGHT RED and FLAMES coming out the caliber. I was freaking out took off my jacket and trying to blow the flames out. Had not water with me so ever started spiting on them. lol Finally got the flames out. Got my room mate to meet me and bring a gallon jug of water to cool down the brake more so I could get home. Cooled them down and got home no prob.

WTF!!!!! No real idea why this happened. I dont know if the pistons in the caliber are F'd up to the point that they are closed or what. Driver side is fine. Maybe the line is clogged on the passage side?

Any ideas?

When I got home looked at the rotor and caliber with a flash like and did see damage. Brakes were sticking or anything.

Very odd.

Oh Pads and rotors are Durlasts from Auto Zone.
Old 02-17-12, 06:25 PM
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PureDrifter
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did you remember to spray the new rotor down with brake cleaner to get rid of all the oil and top coat they ship with to keep from rusting...?

and bed in the new pads?

and make sure you don't have seized calipers?
Old 02-17-12, 06:39 PM
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AirForceRa
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Yes to number 1.

No to number 2.

The passager side caliber didnt seem to be seized when I put everythng back together. It ws kinda a pain to push the two pistons back to fit over to the new pads.

Last edited by AirForceRa; 02-17-12 at 06:42 PM.
Old 02-17-12, 06:46 PM
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LScowboyLS
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the rotor being bright red is the key here, regardless of what coating was on the rotors, the rotors are not going to be glowing red unless the brake pads are being pressed hard against the rotors while you are driving (like if you drove around with your foot on the brake)

therefore, you either have a stuck caliper or some other issue that is causing the passenger side brakes to be "stuck on" while you are driving


- unless....... you were competing in the NASCAR race at Martinsville or Richmond when this happened

Last edited by LScowboyLS; 02-20-12 at 06:55 AM.
Old 02-17-12, 07:30 PM
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RA40
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Yup, seized caliper/piston. Have to thoroughly clean the piston and those surfaces prior to pushing them back. I learned a similar lesson on my first brake job. Didn't get them glowing red but pedal had no feedback, the piston was stuck.
Old 02-17-12, 07:43 PM
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Stuck caliper! That is why you got the warped rotors and vibration in the first place.
Old 02-17-12, 08:00 PM
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lexsmooth
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sliders are seized maybe
Old 02-18-12, 06:46 AM
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for reference guys...

Guns have a Caliber.
cars have Calipers.
Old 02-18-12, 08:07 AM
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steve2006
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On the caliper mounting bracket you will see 2 rubber concertina seals, these are the dust coves for the caliper slide pins. Push the rubber seals off and then see it the pins are free to move. If one or move don't move in and out easily it/they will be seized.
Some times you can get away with removing them,cleaning in a solvent and then applying high temperature grease before refitting but if they are seriously pitted it is best to replace them.
Old 02-18-12, 11:26 AM
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AirForceRa
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
for reference guys...

Guns have a Caliber.
cars have Calipers.
Good to know! lol

Originally Posted by steve2006
On the caliper mounting bracket you will see 2 rubber concertina seals, these are the dust coves for the caliper slide pins. Push the rubber seals off and then see it the pins are free to move. If one or move don't move in and out easily it/they will be seized.
Some times you can get away with removing them,cleaning in a solvent and then applying high temperature grease before refitting but if they are seriously pitted it is best to replace them.
Aight thanks! I will look into this.
Old 02-18-12, 11:54 AM
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Raddison
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Sound's seized to me! The fact that your piston was hard to retract sounds like it may be time for a rebuild ):

..or some bigger brakes from a 95+
Old 02-19-12, 11:40 AM
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ChrisG1000
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
for reference guys...

Guns have a Caliber.
cars have Calipers.
That was starting to get on my nerves.
Old 02-19-12, 08:50 PM
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AirForceRa
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Well one of the pistons is sized. One moves freely. Is there anyway to fix this? Or should I just get a new caliper?
Old 02-19-12, 11:39 PM
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TRDMan
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Originally Posted by AirForceRa
Well one of the pistons is sized. One moves freely. Is there anyway to fix this? Or should I just get a new caliper?
I would just do what Raddison suggested and rebuild the caliper.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/brake/fbcaliper.html

Here is the guide to it.
Old 02-20-12, 01:06 AM
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Raddison
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Check out RockAuto (If you can afford the wait) for a Raybestos service kit for one caliper for five bucks, part # WK2006. That, along with the tutorial in the link TRDman gave you, you're golden.

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