need help wheel bearing replacement.
08-21-11, 02:59 PM
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need help wheel bearing replacement.
i just replace my upper control arms and now i think my front right wheel bearing is bad now,for example, my steering wheel shacks and the feelings comes from the right portion of the steering wheel and the rim has and wobbling look to it when I'm going 20 mph.
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08-21-11, 05:04 PM
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i just replace my upper control arms and now i think my front right wheel bearing is bad now,for example, my steering wheel shacks and the feelings comes from the right portion of the steering wheel and the rim has and wobbling look to it when I'm going 20 mph.
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08-21-11, 09:37 PM
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Thanks man i found the bearing for cheap and i push the rim back and forth with my foot while it wasn't jack up and the rim move..i have an old neighbor with a lot of tools so it should cost little to none. : )
08-22-11, 05:22 AM
#5
Ok. 9/10 times a wheel bearing makes a audible rubbing or grinding noise. It will be a rotational noise, so the faster you go the more frequent or louder it will be. If you swerve left to right, and right to left, the wheel bearing will get louder as pressure is applied to that side. You need to get both front wheels off the ground to check it, like a clock, place you hand at 9 and 3 o'clock (sides of tire), and press and pull like your trying to make the wheels turn. I saw that you can kick it, but that's not a good enough test you need to see what's moving. If you have movement, move your hands to 12 and 6 o'clock (top and bottom), and repeat pushing and pulling for movement. If you have movement at any stage, pay attention to what's moving.
General rule of thumb, don't hold me to this but... Movement from 9 and 3 o'clock could be outer tie rod end, inner tie rod end, the rack itself or wheel bearing. If it's a wheel bearing, your almost ALWAYS have movement at 12 and 6 as well. If you have movement at just 12 and 6, than your looking at ball joints or bushings.
It sounds like you have a very loose TRE, or tie rod end, could be inner or outer. But with the way I just described you have a much better idea now, and if someone else can shake it while you look on the back to see what's moving, you'll see what's going on. The problem is that you'll need to align it, so if you don't assemble the steering close how it was, it'll be a long ride to the shop.
Good luck.
General rule of thumb, don't hold me to this but... Movement from 9 and 3 o'clock could be outer tie rod end, inner tie rod end, the rack itself or wheel bearing. If it's a wheel bearing, your almost ALWAYS have movement at 12 and 6 as well. If you have movement at just 12 and 6, than your looking at ball joints or bushings.
It sounds like you have a very loose TRE, or tie rod end, could be inner or outer. But with the way I just described you have a much better idea now, and if someone else can shake it while you look on the back to see what's moving, you'll see what's going on. The problem is that you'll need to align it, so if you don't assemble the steering close how it was, it'll be a long ride to the shop.
Good luck.
08-22-11, 07:03 AM
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as with puredrifter......yes..double check the upper ball joint on your new upper control arm.
there is a thread on here about the ball joints not being the correct size on some uca's.
and then follow through with 3uzfte's advice.
there is a thread on here about the ball joints not being the correct size on some uca's.
and then follow through with 3uzfte's advice.
08-22-11, 10:36 AM
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i just ruled out the wheel bearing..but i found out my UCA bolt was lose on both sides so tighten all three bolts and drove the car i even step, there was no shacking of the steering wheel,but then it starting doing it again.so could the ball joint loosen itself without having the pin in. the new UCA didn't come with a pin and i threw away the old ones.. smh
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08-22-11, 12:42 PM
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just do this.
go home. triple check every nut and bolt. make sure everything is good and tight.
make sure the upper ball joint seats properly and tighten the nut. install the cotter pin, make sure you bend atleast the longer tab.
install the wheel, and do as 3uzfte suggested for checking for bearing play.
if there is absolutely no play, lower the car and go for a drive.
there is a thread on here for the uca/upper ball joint.....do a quick search for this thread.
it was titled 'installing uca's' or something like that. it shows how the ball joints appear correct, but actually are not. has several different pics to show the differences. this could be an issue. just double check EVEYTHING.
go home. triple check every nut and bolt. make sure everything is good and tight.
make sure the upper ball joint seats properly and tighten the nut. install the cotter pin, make sure you bend atleast the longer tab.
install the wheel, and do as 3uzfte suggested for checking for bearing play.
if there is absolutely no play, lower the car and go for a drive.
there is a thread on here for the uca/upper ball joint.....do a quick search for this thread.
it was titled 'installing uca's' or something like that. it shows how the ball joints appear correct, but actually are not. has several different pics to show the differences. this could be an issue. just double check EVEYTHING.
