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How to compress strut springs on 91 LS400

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Old 09-22-02, 03:26 PM
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Pilot
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Default How to compress strut springs on 91 LS400

I just bought new full set of Tokico struts for my 91 LS400. I am planning on changing them myself. I know I need a tool to compress the springs. Does anyone know the cost of this tool and where to buy it? My backup plan is to take the removed struts to a local garage and ask them to change out the struts with my new ones, and I will re-install them on the car.
I also want to change the rear axle boots, and repack the universal joints. I have ordered 4 factory OEM boot kits that should arrive in a few days. My boots are not torn but are slingling a slight amount of grease at the clamps. I want to take care of this before too much grease is gone and I have a bigger problem.
I was wondering what kind of tool is needed to install the new metal bands/clamps on each end of the boots? Also how hard is it to change these boots and repack the joints with the new grease that comes with the boot packs. I have heard you have to be carefull with the metal ***** that hold the joint together, and not get them mixed up etc.

Thanks

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Old 09-25-02, 10:17 AM
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mlevk
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Hi , I have a 91 also and will probably change the shocks
next year. Maybe you can help me with the details.
Here's what I do know. The rears will have to have the
half shafts removed.

You can rent the spring compressor tool at many places.
Pep Boys etc. usually about $15. I've done STRUTS before
and you do have to be careful when compressing the spring.
If it slips it , the spring CAN KILL YOU ! I prefer them out because
it allows better and SAFER access to the spring.
Some people try to shortcut and compress the spring while
it is in the car. Dangerous.

I've done boots as well and the tool you need can be rented too.
IT pullls the clamps together and then you need a tool to pinch the clamp closed. Some people use "hose type" clamps with pretty good success, and I've seen some people use large heavy duty tie-wraps and they work as well if you can believe it!

So let me know how it goes ? And what did you pay for the shocks ?
Old 09-25-02, 02:42 PM
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I just finished the front end. I changed out the struts, the lower ball joints, resurfaced the rotors, and installed OEM brake pads.
The struts are Tokico Premium HU3704 front, and HU3705 rear.
I bought them for 84.00 each with free shipping from www.coximports.com
I used a strut compression tool borrowed from Auto Zone. Auto Zone has all kinds of tools they will lend out. You have to pay for them, and then get the money back when you return the tools. The front struts are easy to remove, and the compression tool was simple to operated and use. It only takes about 5 minutes to change the strut inside the spring once it is off the car. I got the lower ball joints from Bell Lexus in Phoenix which has discount Internet sales. phone 602-866-3300, and ask for Internet parts sales. If you don't say Internet sales, you may be changed more. The lower ball joints were 82.00 each. I have bought all kinds of parts from Bell Lexus and they have great prices and fast shipping. The hardest part of the whole job was getting the tie rod shaft off of the lower ball joint arm. I had to use a two arm puller to pry apart the joint after removing the nut. You cannot hammer on the tie rod nor the top of the bolt without causing damage. All the other bolts etc, were easy to remove. Everything is very accessible and easy to get at.
It only took me about 90 minutes per side to do all this work, with no special tools except the puller, and the spring compression tool. I did all of it on my driveway.
I will do the rear struts and the axle boots next week. I will post a report on this as well.

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Old 09-29-02, 05:16 PM
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RE: 91 LS 400 Tokico struts:

I just finished installing the Tokico struts on the rear. It was very straight forward with no surprises. The rear seat has to come out, which only took about 5 minutes. This is to get at the top of the strut bolts. I had to disconnect the rear stabilizer link which is next to the lower strut attachment bolt. With this, the strut drops down forward of the rear axle and comes out. I used the same Auto Zone spring compressor and changed out the strut. Each rear side takes about 1 1/2 hours. This is with no prior experience with struts on my part.
The car handles like a dream now, with new brakes, lower ball joints, Tokico struts and new Bridgestone Turanza LSH tires.

I still have the Axle boots to change out and re-grease. I will wait for a nice day to tackle this job as well.

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Old 10-20-02, 12:42 PM
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rybikowsky
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are you saying,that you were able to change the rear struts without removing the axels.I am in the procces of changing mine.I dont see how you can do it without pulling the axels.This job for me has turned into one very hard job.Somewhere in my cars life Many of the nuts and bolts were Loctighted.It has been H--l getting them loose.I advise anyone doing this job,to make sure you have top notch tools.I have had to put a pipe on the end of the wrench to give enough force to break loose,Cheap tools have a good chance of breaking under that force.Our worse rounding off a nut or bolt.Than you are going to have a really terrible time.
Old 10-20-02, 05:04 PM
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Originally posted by rybikowsky
are you saying,that you were able to change the rear struts without removing the axels.
Yes, that is what I said. You DO NOT have to remove the axles to change struts. All I took off were the strut top and lower bolts, then I detached the small bolt for the anti torsion bar, and swung the small rod that it connects to, out of the way. After all bolts are out, you have to lower the strut out of the fender well on the forward side of the axle to bring it down low enough to clear getting it out of the car. If you try to lower it down on the back side of the axle it will not come out. I tried this, and simply pushed it back up in place and then lowered it down on the front side of the axle, where it came out easily. It only took about 90 minutes per wheel to change the strut, compress the spring etc on each wheel. I have never changed struts before on any car, and used standard tools. I did have a 1/2 ratchet/socket and straight breaker bar for the lower strut attachment bolt.

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Old 10-20-02, 05:11 PM
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rybikowsky
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pilot thanks for your reply.I will try again.The reason mine has been such a bi--h is that some previous owner had a lot of work done to the rear differental.I can see the red silacone on the rear.Whoever did this work.Put locktite on everything.And they used the strongest type.I will give you feedback when I finish the jom.
Old 10-22-02, 04:36 PM
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rybikowsky
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Pilot.I am in your debt.The strut job was exactly as you said.I wish I had seen your message before I unbolted so many things.I have the factory repair manuels.The say to pull the brake calipers and to pull both rear axels.You have proved the book wrong.I hope a lot of people read your instructions,It will make a strut change a lot easier.Michael.Carpe Diem.
Old 10-22-02, 05:06 PM
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Michael

I am glad you got your struts finally done, and I am glad that I was able to help someone. I have learned a ton on these message boards.

The value for all of us, is a single place where we can share our collective experience and knowledge. The world gets smaller every day!

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