McPierson

iTrader: (3)

Title says it all. I got a good deal on 4 10" Xtant subs new in the box. They were dual 4 ohm speakers so I got them.

I removed the old 8" speaker in good condition. Cut a piece of 1/2" mdf to use as an adaptor. I then attached this adaptor to the bottom of the rear deck. Next I attached the sub to the mdf.

I put some tinned the ends of the speaker leads and just jammed them in the back of the plug.


It bumps alot harder now, and when the amp starts to flake out it sounds alot more tolerable. At some point I may add an amp, but for now I plan on bumping it like this. Anyways on with the pics.

edit: I've added an amp with an adjustable boost frequency and a high and low pass crossover.

Bottom of rear deck:


Bottom of rear deck with adaptor:


Adaptor and Sub:


Bottom of rear deck with adaptor and speaker:


Top or rear deck with speaker:


Final Product:


Amp:


Cheers
Matt

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

that's a clean install and all (the GS guys have been doing it for ages) but you're going to kill that sub even with the OEM amp's power level.

an actual infinite-baffle subwoofer in that same setup will sound LOADS better.

also, thread title change to OEM SUB right?

McPierson

iTrader: (3)

Well, there isn't anything that makes an infinate baffle sub different. There are subs that are designed for that, but any sub can run IB with variable results. They have lower power rating for the same quality suspension and they shoot for the lowest resonant frequency. Most of it is marketing hype.

This sub's res freq is 32Hz which is low enough, and I don't think I'll have a power problem with the OEM amp.

I think the title is correct. I'm not using the OEM sub.

I'm not sure how you think I'll mess up this sub. Because it's running IB?

I've been running two 10 year old Orion XTR's in my Prelude IB for 7 years with 300wrms a piece. Those subs have similar specs to these and worse suspension. I think this one will manage.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

lol most of it is math and science. QTS/QTC and FS come into play, as well as the physical makeup of the sub (cone size/shape and weight, and especially XMax )

lev00221

iTrader: (28)

I agree with PureDrifter. The installation is clean but you would be better off reinforcing the entire deck with plywood and sound deadener and then installing your aftermarket infinite baffle subwoofer with an appropriate aftermarket amplifier. You will likely hurt your new subwoofer with the OEM amplifier because of LACK of power and clipping.

Again, your installation is well done aesthetically.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

the rear deck is pretty beefy as its a structural component, you could go ahead by sealing all the holes in the rear deck with dynamat or similar sound deadening material

sleepywgn

So what would you guys say is a good sub and amp set up for the stock location? I really need that bass to hit hard in my ride, but i dont know what to get. This is a very nice set up!

fatcat2

why dont you build a box around it to make it have better response and sound? kind of like this but with the position of your sub instead of how he mounts it.
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/audio/subbox.html

Mizzark

Very clean! Makes me want to get rid of my 2 12's and get one 10" sub...

anarchyx34

Looks interesting. How bad does the deck rattle/buzz?

McPierson

iTrader: (3)

I understand. A better speaker would sound better, but I feel it's hard to say how much since the car is fairly well sealed (vehicle Q). When I roll the window down is gets noticably louder.

There is no way the OEM amp will hurt this speaker. There just isn't enough power even when it's clipping. I could put a square wave into it and as long as there isn't too much power it will hold up fine.

There isn't any rattleing now, but after an amp I'm sure I'll find some rattles, I doubt any more than if I had it in a box in the truck though.

I doubt sealing any of the small holes will effect anything with all of the insulation over the rear deck. In an IB setup all you need to prevent is waves from behind the baffle cancleing waves from the front. That should be minimal.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

waves travel and get distorted through all those holes in the rear deck. the better the seal the better chance your sub has a chance of surviving and not exceeding its xmax/being overdriven.

will it sound better than stock? probably.
will it sound as good as it could for the minimal amount of work it takes to seal the rear deck? no.

93LexusES3

Nice Install....you won't actually harm the subwoofer with a Low Powered Amp UNLESS clipping happens...which can cause rapid heating of the voice coil even from small wattage amplifiers.

an Aftermarket Amp would be a good bet..

McPierson

iTrader: (3)

I just added an Infinity amp with the DBO. It turns out the Thiele/Small parameters for this sub are very much in line with other IB subs. If there are any frequency peaks I'll be taking those out with the amp's adjustable DBO.

The amp was mounted directly to the trunk liner. I'm impressed with it's strength. Hopefully it will hold up over the long run, but if not I'll reinforced it.

I used the OEM amp remote turn-on wire to supply the remote on for the new amp.

Hopefully I'll be able to put a DB meter on it soon and I'll be able to say for sure that I don't have any huge peaks or valleys in the responce.

Sounds alot better. I'm getting alittle rattle from the rear deck cover. I'll be messing with that in the near future.

Cheers,
M@

black_LS

Great thread, thanks McPierson. I will be installing an Acoustic Elegance IB10AU in a similar fashion.