deanshark

I think everyone named Dean is confused. There isn't too many of us around. The idler pulley is the only bolt that I've ever put threadlock on. That's only b/c that idler pulley pivots. I use thread sealer on anything coolant related. (waterpump and bleeder bolt) Watch out using the manual, I'm sure you see by now that some of the wording is wrong. Usually common sense figures it out though. How far are you on yours? Take your time with it and double check things as you go along.

deanbrown

Just putting it back together now. Manual says 181 ft-lb for the crank bolt, though I'm sure I read it was 280 somewhere else, because it was off my torque wrench's range. Any comments there?

Dashan what torque do you have for the crank?

dashan

I got 181 ftlb. If you have a torque wrench with an upper limit of 150 ftlb, you can get your wrench click at 150, then use the break bar to turn the bolt half to one more turn, and it would be fine (that's what I believe).

dashan

Dean b,
Do you have a pic of 96 similar to the attached one from Lexls. I want to know how that vertical wire on the driver site of the 96 was original tied.

Thanks

deanshark

Don't believe another half turn, that would be totally imposible. If ya need a torque wrench for 181 you can get a loan-a-tool from Autozone, Advanced Auto, or those type parts strores.

deanbrown

I second that at autozone they have up to 250 ft-lb free.

Dashan does this help?

deanshark

Hey Dean, is that pic before or after? Either way, do you plan on doing anything with your PS pump? I notice all that fluid on it, and your alternator, which is pretty bad. It looks like it's leaking from the O-ring that's behind the C clip on top of the pump. (not visible in pic) That's also where both of mine leaked from.

dashan

Started the car, engine ran good, no weird sound.
Did I do it?

dashan

thanks 10 characters.

billydpowe

iTrader: (1)

you did it.......... congratulations on a job well done....

dashan

Thank you everybody. I did learn a lot and got a lot of help from you.

dashan

Things that I replaced:
1. Water pump.
2. Water pump gasket and O rings.
3. Timing belt.
4. Two timing belt idler pulleys
5. Timing belt tensioner.
6. Crankshaft seal.
7. Two camshaft seals.
8. Two distributor caps.
9. Two distributor rotors.
10. Drive belt.
11. Bearing of drive belt idler pulley.
12. Bearing of drive belt tensioner pulley.
13. Engine collant.
14. Fan bracket.
15. Thermostat
17. Thermostat gasket
18. Radiator drain plug

Total cost of new parts: about $550 (price does not include rotors and caps that were bought a couple of years ago).

deanshark

NIIICCE!!! Congrats on a job well done. Feels amazing, doesn't it? Price for parts wasn't bad either. But, how much did you spend in tools? Glad you learned what you did. Now you know for any future repairs to the T-belt/water pump area, and you have the knowledge to pass on to others. See that, just like your parents used to say, "you can do anything if you put your mind to it".

dashan

There was noise at the serpentine belt area before the belt replacement. The noise became worse when the load at the serpentine belt increased (such as with AC on). The old gatorback serpentine belt showed no obvious wear and tear after 60K miles of use.

After replacing bearings of serpentine belt idler pulley and tensioner pulley, the noise at the belt area went away (even with AC on). Replacing bearings is a very cost effective way to fix the problem (two bearings cost about $5-6).

deanbrown

Congratulations Dashan - glad it all worked out for you. Does it run any different? I should have mine done any day now lol.

Dean I'm going to take a closer look at the pump, perhaps when all the timing belt covers are back on. The PS level never goes down though (that's 250K of leakage on there).