Ok I just bought a 1992 Ls400 with 195k miles on it.it didnt run when I got it it had been sitting for 3 years. It would turn over but not start so I grabbed a can of carb cleaner and sprayed it in the intake and it cranked up and sounded great! Got it home and removed the pump, cleaned it out, reinstalled it and it cranked right up!little smoke after a few minites of running though. Drove it around and it had NO power kinda like the TPS wasnt working. I decieded to do a FULL tune up on it, new timing belt, water pump, drive belt, both dist caps and rotors, wires and plugs, valve cover gaskets, fuel filter, air filter and oil change using 4 quarts 10-40, 1 quart lucus and half a can of sea foam. While I was tearing the engine apart I discovered 0 compression on cylinder 1. I put a little oil and tested it again 0 I filled it all the way up to the spark plug tube making sure the valves were closed and let it sit for 30 minites and the level never changed. I turned it over and the oil sprayed out and I tested the compression again... 0 I filled it again and let it sit over night and turned it over again the next morning and let the oil spray again my wife turned it over while I put my hand over the spark plug tube... nothing... nothing... nothing... COMPRESSION!! put the tester back on it and got 240 same as all the other cylinders!
Now the previous owner told me he stopped driving it because it would be driving find and then start slowing way down and then start driving fine again...
I am getting spark from both coils.
Oh when I test drove the car the CEL wasnt onafter I did everything and drove it around it still wasnt on but then I completely washed the bottom of the engine and I got code 25 and 26 when I started it back up again.
UPDATE: When its sitting at idle even for an hour it doesnt smoke but it I drive it 1 mile down the street beating on it it will start smoking on the drivers side. and the power comes and goes as long as your not flooring it but if you floor it no matter how fast your going it just boggs down.
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These coils do fail but normally it's the drivers side that does,if you have a meter you can measure the primary coil resistance,but they can fail on the secondary (high Tension) side which requires specialized equipment to test,replacements are around $40.00 so it may be worth just replacing it.
Or if you have the time and inclination swap the coils round and see if the coil still doesn't work indicating a faulty coil.
It was the original coil. There was 0 ohms between the 2 terminals.
I'm not doubting you but if it has 0 ohms I would make sure the meter is working correctly. Did you also check the drivers side coil?
Primary coil resistence. Connect ohm meter to ( + and - terminals)
(cold) 0.36 - 0.55 ohms
(hot) 0.45 - 0.65 ohms
Secondary coil resistence. Connect ohm meter to ( + terminal and high tension terminal)
(cold) 9.0 - 15.4 k ohms
(hot) 11.4 - 18.1 k ohms
You asked about the cam sensor, incase you need the resistence; (cam and crank)
(cold) 835 - 1400 ohms
(hot) 1060 - 1645 ohms
Ok the car was idleing fine yesterday although a coil was bad. I ordered a new coil and it came in today... Hooked it up and when I tried to start it I heard a sound like no timing belt... compression on 1 and 3 is 0... WTF!!!
There was no compression on 6 cylinders so I just sat there for 4 minites trying to start it and it finally sputtered to life... I had to keep my foot on the gas and it was running really bad but I had poored oil in all the cylinders after about 5 minites of running it had alight smoke and was idling smooth. After running for 20 minites all smoke was gone adn it was purring like a kitten.
As before after the car has completely cooled down it acts like theres only compression on 2 cylinders. It takes about 3-4 minites of turning it over floored to get it started and then it runs rough and I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it running for about 5 minites and then it idles smooth and runs great...