mostrandom

Greetings from NZ

Ok, so, I have a 1UZFE LS400. It is actually the Toyota Celsior equivelent but same car.

The water pump was leaking and making a grinding noise so I decided to replace the belt and waterpump with genuine new items. I Removed the hydraulic fan and radiator, removed the front pullys, covers, hydraulic pump and waterpump and cambelt. Replaced with new parts and reassembled. During the time, I managed to earth the + on the battery which blew the 120A main fuse. Disconnected the battery for the remainder of the time, then I replaced it with a 100A (its all they had at the store). I put everything back together, (lost no bolts and everything went back to where it should).

Went to start the car after, and it wont even crank. Turn the key, all the lights come up (no immobiliser light flashing or showing on dash). Turn to start and nothing. Have checked all the earths, fuses, etc.

I should also note that I slightly damaged the left hand Cam position sensor when removing it, but sealed it back up and tested the resistence which was identical to the other one so I assume it works. I also damaged the temp sender next to the thermostat housing, but replaced that with another from a Toyota. The resistences were exactly the same on the old and new one.

deanbrown

The starter doesn't spin?

tonyfazt

check all the fuses again
the efi fuse

mostrandom

Nah nothing. It wont even crank over. not even a click from the starter. Tried to jump it just incase there werent enough amps but nothing.

NTRUDA

I would suggest taking out the 100A fuse and replacing it with 120A...you may have to order it or wait until the place that you purchased the 100A fuse gets the 120A in or you can search the web and order from a good reputable shop/dealer...IMO...

mostrandom

Even with the 100A, it should still crank over. Its lower than the factory, so with a surge, it will blow earlier than the factory. But still, it should turn over and start.... :S

deanshark

The cam sensor wouldn't effect the cranking. It would still crank but not start. Even though you don't have any light for an immobilizer, just a thought, is it possible when you grounded the battery it set itself? Try locking and unlocking the doors with the key, not the remote. That's the first thing I think of when I hear "I have lights but wont crank". Only b/c it has happened to me a couple times. Also check the starter relay, that might have blown when you blew the main fuse.

mostrandom

Ive taken the cover off all the furelays in the main fuse box in the engine, none are burnt out. Ive unlocked and locked the car many times with the key. I even tried a method I read to have ignition on for 6 minutes then off and try. But that didnt work. This model im sure doesnt have the immobiliser anyways ? Could it have burnt the ignition switch? Or would the ECU (ECM) have burnt out and ould that have stopped it from turning over if it is ?

maxx999

How's your battery? Did you run diagnostics?

91LS400vgb

Maybe it's not related to anything you did, and it's an entirely distinct issue. I agree with Maxx about the battery - do a load test on it and make sure it's okay first. There's a few things it can be, like the neutral safety switch. You can try starting the car with the gear in Neutral instead of Park. Did you check the starter relay? The next thing would be to do a starter current draw test which you can do with an inductive ammeter. This will confirm if the starter's amp draw is too low. Just put the amp probe on the positive battery cable and turn the key. If it's low, then you know the starter circuit has high resistance that is possibly cause by poor battery cable or connections or a bad solenoid (assuming the battery is good, and everything else you tested was good).

deanbrown

He tried to jump start it so I think its not the battery itself.

is there any clicking or anything at all?

tenchu

Did you check the under dash fuses? I had this issue a couple days ago, and there is a little 7.5A fuse that is in a row separate from the main block of fuses that wouldn't allow my car to start.

tinman

This must be a fuse issue. My SC300 and GS300 have several fuse blocks that trip when you ground the positive cable. It took me awhile to find all of them when I did this a few years ago. There was a fuse under the dash and a useable link in one of the fuse blocks by the battery. I know it sucks, but there has got to be another fuse involved here. Make sure that 100A fuse hasn't blown since it wants a 120A, I doubt it has but you never know. Also, after doing all this work, it's a good idea to crank the engine over by hand to make sure everything is ok before starting it.

mostrandom

Hi again. Well last night I dismantled the lower drivers dash to get at the back of the ignitionto test it, at the plug further down the loom I jumped the (ig+) to the starter directly and still nothing. No clicking nothing so I can rule out being the ignition switch. The only other thing I can assume it is, is the Neutral safety switch burnt out from the arc of the battery ? I know that between the ignition, there is the factory immobiliser, the Neutral safety switch (anyone know where this is?) , and then the starter ??. The starter is a mission to get to. You need to remove the intake manifold so I want to avoid doing that without checking other things first. To the poster asking about the 7.5A fuse. Did your car turn over and not start? or not turn over at all ? Anyone confirm if this model had factory immobiliser ? Thanks for all the help guys ..

tenchu

Mine did absolutely nothing, turning the key wouldnt click, nothing.