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DIY Brake Job question and SS lines?

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Old 04-23-11, 06:05 PM   #1
SEBASS
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Question DIY Brake Job question and SS lines?

Ok so i changed front pads on my 90 lex ls400 but forgot that i need to use torque wrench set to specific number. I think it is 25lbs. Now i just screwed the caliper screw in tightly.

Is that a problem? Will this cause any damage to brake system. What's at stake here?

Also I'm thinking of installing Goodridge G-Stop (Stainless Steel) Brake Line kit to get rid of pedal being mushy. I think i have old and original brake line rubber ones. I talked to 3 car mechanics and they all said stainless steel brake lines will not improve over rubber. They said inside rubber there also is steel mesh wiring but some ppl at forums swear by it, that it imporoved braking a lot and got rid of mush brake pedal. Anyone had this installed and can actually swear by it? Couldn't brake improvement been just by getting NEW vs old lines?
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Old 04-23-11, 10:26 PM   #2
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If you're referring to the bolts that I think you are, a torque wrench isn't really critical. You just need it tight enough to not fall off, and 25 ft/lbs really isn't that tight.

Stainless lines will prevent the rubber brake lines from expanding under pressure, so the pedal will be firmer. However, if your brakes really are mushy, you may have an air bubble in the system. If you haven't flushed your brake fluid, I would recommend doing so.
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Old 04-23-11, 10:28 PM   #3
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no you didnt screw anything up. yes it will be fine.if you just did the fronts and still have a squishy pedal...you should do a brake fluid flush.
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Old 04-23-11, 10:44 PM   #4
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I've never used torque wrenches to do brakes on any of my cars.
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Old 04-23-11, 11:53 PM   #5
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it comes down to confidence. i use my tq wrenches whenever the LSRM has specs for them.

if you're SURE you have them tight enough, then you shouldnt worry about your breaks not working....

brakes, suspension, and drivetrain are places I refuse to "wing it"
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Old 04-24-11, 07:36 AM   #6
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Yea the caliper bolts are supposed to be torqued at 25 ft lb. I'm with PD, if it has a torque spec you should always use a torque wrench. Something as important as brakes, I would make sure it's right. Every true mechanic should own a torque wrench, even if it's a cheap one. (Harbor Freight) Any crushable gasket should also be torqued correctly. If ya don't tighten a bolt tight enough it can spin its way loose or if ya over tighten it then it might strip threads, crack parts, or crush gaskets to where they leak.
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Old 04-24-11, 08:39 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SEBASS View Post
Also I'm thinking of installing Goodridge G-Stop (Stainless Steel) Brake Line kit to get rid of pedal being mushy.
Don't you think car manufacturers would put stainless steel brake lines on at least their more expensive cars if they provided a benefit?

I've bought one new and and one low mileage used Lexus LS and neither had a particularly firm brake pedal.
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Old 04-25-11, 06:16 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kansas View Post
Don't you think car manufacturers would put stainless steel brake lines on at least their more expensive cars if they provided a benefit?

I've bought one new and and one low mileage used Lexus LS and neither had a particularly firm brake pedal.
Thank you all you guys. I got it pretty tight so i'm not worring about it becoming loose. I was more worried about getting it too tight and perhaps having caliper pin not working correctly but from what you guys are saying that's not even an issue. I'll try to get torque wrench for my next job.
I'm going to do back this weekend. Btw my caliper is pretty rusty and was not seizing up but was touching pads and pads were touching and heating up rotor.

You guys think if i use sand paper on cylinder and get the rust out, blow air it with air and then apply caliper synthetic grease it will work again or is that caliper doomed? I'm gonna try anyway but shall see

Kansas regarding SS lines. Did you have them installed or factory rubber hoses. Thing is those hoses might be original 20yrs old so they definitely garbage now. My ? is is the firmness gonna come from brand new rubber onces or SS only. After all rubber ones would be brand spanking new so def would improve over those OLD ones. But then again if it's SS thingy, then i would rather have shop install them.
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Old 04-26-11, 04:46 AM   #9
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Forget SS lines. They only become useful on the track after the brake fluid heats up thus heating up the lines making them softer and the pedal mushy.
Do a brake fluid flush. There's air in the lines for sure so getting that out and new fluid should help.
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Old 04-26-11, 07:48 AM   #10
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Braided...el_brake_lines
i have ss lines...but i put them on when i pieced together my big brake kit so i cant confirm or deny their stopping ability comparitively speaking. however i would say u r fine with rubber hoses but if they are original u might wanna replace them with new ones
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Old 04-26-11, 09:27 AM   #11
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95% of the improvement on a street car comes from merely flushing the fluid, since most of those going from rubber-->stainless lines have ancient fluid in them, then swap for new SS lines, forcing them to flush that crap fluid out.

flush the fluid, that's all you need.
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Old 04-26-11, 06:49 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PureDrifter View Post
95% of the improvement on a street car comes from merely flushing the fluid, since most of those going from rubber-->stainless lines have ancient fluid in them, then swap for new SS lines, forcing them to flush that crap fluid out.

flush the fluid, that's all you need.
So even if those rubber old hoses are old leave them be. I mean i don't know how old they are. I don't know if they still actually work well. Rubber is rubber. You think fluid flash is all i need? Yeah fluid is probably ancient too. Front brake job was success and it was my first. I'm kinda proud of myself. I just bought the rear and pads are so much smaller so looks like rear will be even easier then front. lol. Anybody can recommend good jack for our heavy 4800lbs car? I got 2.5 ton duralast from auto zone but don't like it. Saw ac delco one with same rating but was smaller. Seemed more advaned in tech tho.
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Old 04-27-11, 05:41 AM   #13
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replace the rubber hoses they break down and start to flex...they can also cause catastrophic failure when they burst. lexus recommends changing fluid every 36 months or 30,000 miles..practically every jack u buy will be made in china btw...hein werner is usa made
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Old 06-10-11, 07:44 PM   #14
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SS brake lines should be better than the rubber.. Mine customised from EARLS for my RAV4,SUPRAs and Landcruiser
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Old 06-10-11, 09:14 PM   #15
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Plenty of discussion about SS lines and the teflon issues to ponder.

As for the torque specs, when in doubt torque it to spec. But- have you seen the range of torque specs for some of the fasteners Toyota lists? Given that, one has to be very ham fisted-clueless to not get it within the specs.

Parts that heat cycle, I prefer to have them torqued to spec and especially gasket mating surfaces. Squeaks, rattles are yet another area to keep even values since those are annoying. Especially when removing the dash.
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Old 06-10-11, 09:14 PM
 
 
 
 
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2000, brake, diy, goodridge, job, lexus, line, lines, ls400, mesh, rear, replacement, rx300, ss, stop, video

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