Suspension questions
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Suspension questions
1990 LS400 with 245K miles purchased from a friend a few years when it had 230K miles...Car was maintained very well and still has the original struts....Ride is fine to me but i don't know how it would feel any different with new struts (I have nothing to compare it to) I'm looking to install KYB struts fairly soon and the question being should i automatically assume the shock mounts need to be replaced or should i make that determination after an inspection? New mounts will run about $250 so should i spend it up front or wait? Thanks all!
#2
Pole Position
First off, why are you changing the struts? Did someone say they are bad or are you just thinking mileage wise? You say it feels fine. Personally, I would inspect the mounts before just going out and buying them. Why spend the money if ya don't have to? But, if finances aren't a problem (like most of us have) then I guess you can get them without looking at them first.
#3
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
The ride seems ok to me but since i don't have the opportunity to drive this model with new or newer struts i don't know how much i'm missing What i think is fine might really suck when compared to new..I tend to agree that checking the mounts before replacing them is a good idea...But on the struts how much do they have left @20 years and 245K miles
#4
Lexus Test Driver
Most likely the strut mounts are fine. Nothing that I noticed to wear out when I had mine apart. I wire brushed the ones on my 91, primed and repainted them before reinstalling.
I'm sure you'll notice a difference in ride on new struts, simply due to the age of your existing. When you drive the car now, if it leans when taking corners, opposed to staying relatively level around corners, its because the struts are weak from age. The old bounce test doesn't necessarily reveal if a strut is weak, only if its failed.
You probably need new top isolators in the front and both top and bottom isolators in the rear. Replacing the top bumpers on all four are optional IMO, unless you've been driving the car in the Baja, you should be able to transfer over the originals...
As far as using the KYB goes, some have reported a somewhat stiffer ride from them vs OEM. I opted for OEM and I'm not disappointed. They had both "Toyota" and "KYB" stamped on them. I bought everything from Sewell. Around $623 delivered including isolators and bumpers (after CL discount). Also, I heard the KYB's don't come with a new center nylon locking nut that hold the top mounts on, or a new 19mm bolt/nut for where the base of the strut connects up to the lower control arm. The OEM's come with these.
Jim
I'm sure you'll notice a difference in ride on new struts, simply due to the age of your existing. When you drive the car now, if it leans when taking corners, opposed to staying relatively level around corners, its because the struts are weak from age. The old bounce test doesn't necessarily reveal if a strut is weak, only if its failed.
You probably need new top isolators in the front and both top and bottom isolators in the rear. Replacing the top bumpers on all four are optional IMO, unless you've been driving the car in the Baja, you should be able to transfer over the originals...
As far as using the KYB goes, some have reported a somewhat stiffer ride from them vs OEM. I opted for OEM and I'm not disappointed. They had both "Toyota" and "KYB" stamped on them. I bought everything from Sewell. Around $623 delivered including isolators and bumpers (after CL discount). Also, I heard the KYB's don't come with a new center nylon locking nut that hold the top mounts on, or a new 19mm bolt/nut for where the base of the strut connects up to the lower control arm. The OEM's come with these.
Jim
Last edited by JimsGX; 11-26-10 at 08:27 AM.
#6
Super Moderator
iTrader: (6)
The struts are long gone. As Jim indicated, the bounce test is not relevant in enough instances and not always will the tire bounce when driving down the road. YOu'll remove them to find they have no rebound left in them. That was how ours were at 80K miles. No obvious signs but with fresh struts in, an obvious improvement.
As for the boots, unless they have been eaten by rats or seen other harsh conditions, they are likely good. Their main purpose is to reduce road debis and like from embedding on the piston and also serve as a bump stop under hard compression. Inspect and replace as necessary.
The strut hats are probably also good. Of the cars we've had, I've not had to replace any, again, inspect and replace as necessary.
Hardware, the struts and shocks I have bought have come with the nut to attach into the body mounts. Only the lower bolt is not included. That has been my experience with KYB, Tokico, Bilstein and the Tokico has been my favorite among Toyota cars. The KYB GR-2 is an OEM spec strut, there shouldn't be an obvious difference but peoples backside varies.
As for the boots, unless they have been eaten by rats or seen other harsh conditions, they are likely good. Their main purpose is to reduce road debis and like from embedding on the piston and also serve as a bump stop under hard compression. Inspect and replace as necessary.
The strut hats are probably also good. Of the cars we've had, I've not had to replace any, again, inspect and replace as necessary.
Hardware, the struts and shocks I have bought have come with the nut to attach into the body mounts. Only the lower bolt is not included. That has been my experience with KYB, Tokico, Bilstein and the Tokico has been my favorite among Toyota cars. The KYB GR-2 is an OEM spec strut, there shouldn't be an obvious difference but peoples backside varies.
#7
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Let's assume all the existing parts are in good condition (bumpers, insulators etc) My expense would just be the KYB struts themselves @ approx $350 and i'm sure opinions will vary but should i just invest in Megan coilovers and ride off into the sunset?
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#11
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Megans seem to be the front runner and i wouldn't mind sacrificing some of the OEM ride for better handling...Already have the front upper strut bar working for me...might even recup some bucks selling the old suspension parts if in good shape
#12
Lexus Test Driver
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I think the Megan EZ Street would be your best bet. I don't know about the others with Megans but I think it still feels like the same car, but with a slightly shorter stroke and slightly stiffer with MUCH less body roll and squat while braking. It just feels much more controlled overall.
Bradster, if you do happen to get these any doubts will go away the first time you take an aggressive turn. Also you get new mounts included. So $350 for struts and $250 for mounts is $600 and you would still have old springs, or $650 for all new.
Go for it man! We have a few vendors who carry them so message them and let them earn your business.
Bradster, if you do happen to get these any doubts will go away the first time you take an aggressive turn. Also you get new mounts included. So $350 for struts and $250 for mounts is $600 and you would still have old springs, or $650 for all new.
Go for it man! We have a few vendors who carry them so message them and let them earn your business.
#14
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (1)
Most likely the strut mounts are fine. Nothing that I noticed to wear out when I had mine apart. I wire brushed the ones on my 91, primed and repainted them before reinstalling.
...
You probably need new top isolators in the front and both top and bottom isolators in the rear. Replacing the top bumpers on all four are optional IMO, unless you've been driving the car in the Baja, you should be able to transfer over the originals...
As far as using the KYB goes, some have reported a somewhat stiffer ride from them vs OEM. I opted for OEM and I'm not disappointed. They had both "Toyota" and "KYB" stamped on them. I bought everything from Sewell. Around $623 delivered including isolators and bumpers (after CL discount). Also, I heard the KYB's don't come with a new center nylon locking nut that hold the top mounts on, or a new 19mm bolt/nut for where the base of the strut connects up to the lower control arm. The OEM's come with these.
Jim
...
You probably need new top isolators in the front and both top and bottom isolators in the rear. Replacing the top bumpers on all four are optional IMO, unless you've been driving the car in the Baja, you should be able to transfer over the originals...
As far as using the KYB goes, some have reported a somewhat stiffer ride from them vs OEM. I opted for OEM and I'm not disappointed. They had both "Toyota" and "KYB" stamped on them. I bought everything from Sewell. Around $623 delivered including isolators and bumpers (after CL discount). Also, I heard the KYB's don't come with a new center nylon locking nut that hold the top mounts on, or a new 19mm bolt/nut for where the base of the strut connects up to the lower control arm. The OEM's come with these.
Jim
The mounts are basically two stamped steel plates with rubber in between (rubber is like on a transmission or engine mount). So the thing that wears out is the rubber. I bought my new mounts before taking it all apart (did not want to be delayed). Comparing the thickness of the rubber on new vs. old showed that they were in very good shape and could definitely have been reused. I weighed the cost of returning, and decided to put in the new ones. Still have the old if anyone wants to make an offer. I think when they wear out, like on most mounts, the rubber separates from the steel plate, and that is when you get knocking, motion, etc.
KYB's sales pitch on KYB vs. KYB-built OEM is that the KYB (GR-2, I think) ones are tuned slightly differently to account for wear of the other suspension components. Can't say I believe that. Probably just needs to be different for some reason.
The KYBs do come with the one mounting nut. But unlike the OEM, they do not come with the lower bolt + nut.
Other than the strut mounts, you should be able to jack each corner up and inspect the insulators (boots) and bumpers to help decide whether to replace them.
#15
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
With all the info recently gained on this subject i don't see any downside to the Megans as i would think they could be adjusted (if so desired) to replicate the stock ride...Am i correct in that assumption?