j three

I just got my oil changed last week back to Royal purple 5w-30 from Castrol Syntec 0w-30 European formula. I will never go back to that stuff, the people that tell you you can't tell the difference between oil is full of it. As soon as I put the syntec in last time the car felt like it gained weight somehow, and I thought my tranny needed a fluid change because the car felt more sluggish than before. I have just confirmed that it was in fact the oil because the car feels lighter and zings about much more effortlessly than with the last oil. My current setup is 6 quarts royal purple and 16 oz prolong with the filter I mentioned above. It really feels like night and day, the only variable was oil.

lexuslspro

j three you may have missed this so I'm just going to ask you this again.


Time for me to hijack this thread, NOT!

I am one of those people who truly believe the oil and filter play a huge role.

In terms of synthetic:
Amsoil , Royal Purple, and Mobil 1 are generally known to be the the best!

5w-30 is what Lexus reccomends.

Boy are we lucky Lexus didn't put in a turbo in the LS series!

Turbos leak like there is no tomorrow (espescially with age and mileage)!

3UZFTE

Ok, why must we start a new post when there are seriously probably a hundred threads rehashing A. "What oil is best?" and B. "Which filter is best?"...? Luckily I am at a convention monitoring our internet cafe, so I thought I'd add my 2 cents. Seriously Newbs, search, you already have the key to almost all the answers. The reason why it's a little stupid to debate "the best" is because it honestly comes down to personal preference as some people want to save $1 and some people want to buy the coolest looking bottle on the shelf that says you can go 500,000 miles on one oil change.
Oils... The fact is that we are talking about an engine that at the newest is a 00' 1UZ. And if we're talking about a 92' 1UZ, the requirements have long been superseded in order to meet newer and far more demanding rules and guidelines that oils have to meet. Without a doubt, if you compared oil of 92' and 10' you would not only find out how much it has improved but you'd find out that must oils meet these requirements, likewise if you take oil from a 76' Ford and compared it to a 94' Ford, their both oil and they both reduce friction, but with the technology over a 20 year period, we're not talking about the same oil Henry Ford used, it's totally different, and far better. If you have an oil leak, switching from regular to high mileage, or 30 weight to 40 weight isn't going to "solve" your problem, it is only going to either slow the leak down or delay it for another day. As far as J Three's comment, I don't believe the European blend meet the same requirements as the other oils, but I'm not totally positive on that, which is why it might explain the loss of power, but no offense, how do we really know that you lost performance, rather than just feeling like you did, we don't, we can only trust that you are aware enough that you feel like it's work and you feels like it's not and that all the variables are the same such as air density, fuel being used, weight in vehicle, etc, etc. I do trust J Three, as he's a long time poster, I just can't justify putting $7 a quart into my vehicle, a $60 oil change vs. a $22 oil change, I could change oil almost 3 times before it's cost effective for you to drop yours. If your really worried about the condition, longevity, and other factors, you should change your oil every 1,000 miles, but there just isn't a need for it.
Oil filters.... If you don't know that most of Toyota filter are interchangeable, now you do, with a few exceptions. The D3 filter is the OE filter that Toyota recommends, sure you can run a larger or smaller filter, which possibly adds a 1/4 of a quart, which really don't extend your oil life or capacity for that matter. Even if you put an extra 1/4 in your oil pan with a D3 filter, you won't have an adverse effects, but it's really the same result. If your really concerned about adding another half to full quart of oil, look into an oil cooler. Now, if I couldn't buy a Toyota filter and I was in a pinch and need an oil change, I would hands down purchase a Wix filter, than a Napa gold as it's made by Wix. I am sure that if they didn't have those filters, I would purchase a reputable name brand. (not Fram, I said reputable.) One common misconception is that all filters are made equally, and that's just not true. I would rather go 6k miles on my Toyota filter than go 3k on a Fram, but that's just me. One thing to note, if your actually going to research the best filter, find out all the specs that you need to measure the filter by such as filtration rate, capacity, oil relief valve psi, quality of o-ring, as well as the ability to take the used filter off. I've yet to have a Fram come off without the filter breaking, crushing or tearing as well as the o-ring sticking in place. I have done so many oil changes at Toyota using their filters, and not once have I had the o-ring stick to the block, not once! All of their specs are listed, as well as their oil pressure relief valve spec which varies depending on the filter being used. With all the being said Newbies.... I run the cheapest 5w/10w-30 oil I can find, usually Shell, as well as a D3 filter on my GS430, turbo LS400, and a friend's ES300 and have never had a problem in 3 years.

Just thought I'd put the kibosh on that.

3UZFTE

Why are we lucky...? I personally wouldn't mind having a factory turbo or supercharged LS400... I don't really know how many turbos you may have worked on, but usually if the turbos leak oil, their going bad... Now that I'm in the FI LS400 boat, I simply disagree. A turbo is very simple, and is almost the same thing, but opposite as an inline oil cooler, but instead it heats the oil up to around 200* instead of bring it down to ambient temp. The 911 Turbo my boss has doesn't consume any oil, my friends EG hatch w/ an H22 turbo doesn't lose oil, nor does our electrician's Jetta w/ 1.8T block, bored to a 2.0 with a Garrett T25 turbo, as well most of Lextreme doesn't mention an automatic oil loss once they go turbo, but your more likely to see oil seep from seals on higher mileage motors, but I mean what motor doesn't have a small oil leak past 100k miles...? Yes, your more likely to have oil leaks on a boosted motor, but I would happily deal with the leaks and replace the seals with a smile from ear to ear if my 92' LS400 had a factory 350rwhp turbocharged motor in a 4,000 lbs car.

somnoboy

Thanks for that long, and extremely informative post. I learned a lot reading that.

As a newbie, let me just note that repeating questions via new threads is not a bad thing. Heck, as the cornucopia of ads on this forum indicates, you should, at the margin, be encouraging new threads and page views, if there is no harm done to anyone (there isn't, at least as far as I can tell). And newbies like me learn a ton of things that they would never have even thought of searching for. Just my 3 cents...

bornpeace

a car with more than 75K is considered high mileage vehicle. To use high mileage oil is a recommendation not must(just make a call). Here is the benefit of high mileage oil; Extra anti-wear additive that helps protect critical engine parts, reduces the sludge and deposits that conventional oils can leave behind, contains a special seal conditioner to help recondition seals and prevent leaks, and higher viscosity formula helps reduce oil burn-off and leakage.
If your seals already leak, you have to replace them, this will just recondition good seals. I have use high mileage oil since 90K and now 190k with no leaks. Take this as opinion and dont try to prove anything(i use the oil and i have seen results)

Marklouis

Death!! to new oil threads...

bornpeace

here is the test results for viscosity

Mobil 1 full synt 5W-30
Viscosity, @ 40ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 63.1
Viscosity @ 100ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 11.1

mobil 1 full synt high mileage 5W-30
Viscosity (ASTM D445)
cSt @ 40 ºC 68
cSt @ 100 ºC 11.48

3UZFTE

I am glad to help, but I simply don't see why you couldn't learn from the old posts as well. What makes people upset, which is why they scream "Search!!!" is because these questions have all been hashed out a billion times over and over. It simply makes the work and effort we put in to the other threads simply worth less.. Do you know how many timing belt tutorials there are out there? I doubt we need another thread to re-hash timing belt questions like what's the part number. Now if you have a concern about oil leaks, timing belts, or other questions that haven't been discussed are strickly pertain to your personal scenario, then that's different. But to me, it is simply just a waste of time to keep saying the same info over and over. Don't get me wrong, I'm glad to help and continue the forums and help give advice, but to me, this has all been said before and we don't need new threads, as many of these threads have been around for 3-5+ years.

Congrats, you can read the print on the bottle or the advertising on TV. That being said, does any company really come out and give you 100% of the correct information, sure there are a few, but most companies need to have some mystery about their products. If you could explain to me, how does a special seal conditioner (a chemical) "recondition" the rubber seal? Rubber over time, dries out and cracks, and eventually will disintegrate. Yes, the thicker oil does do a better job of not going through the smaller holes that lets say a 30 weight oil might find, but you'd likely have the same results if you just step up the oil to 40 weight. The funny part to me... at least, is that the piston rings are not rubber, and it is likely at higher mileage, you will see consumption past the rings, no special chemical is going to help except for a thicker molecule... Sure the special chemical might expand the rubber cause it to seal better temporarily, but eventually it will start leaking again. To me high mileage oil is a band-aid instead of a fix. Not arguing your results, I'm just simply telling you for changing oil every for the last 10 years.

x2, 10 characters.

Nice, those numbers are great but what are they telling us? To me, it simply says that a 5w-30 high mileage oil has a high viscosity than regular 5w-30. Wouldn't it be safe to assume that if you took 5w-30, and mixed in a quart of 5w-40, you'd likely see an increase in viscosity seeing that now you have a 5w-32.5 oil? I am not proving anything, I am just saying... for all we know, they take 5w-30 oil and add 0w-50 oil to is to achieve their high mileage oil, who knows but the actual companies and engineers themselves. Oil is oil, yes synthetic is different from conventional, but that's a different debate altogether.

Carson-Lex

Not to sure if this helps, but the main reason we started bringing in the OEM Japan 90915-20004 filters was basically for all the request we received from members here on the boards. A lot of people did not like how the new YZZD3 # is now made in thailand out of a paper element. Below are the pics of the internals of the oem japan 90915-20004 filter. Big difference...






Also check this thread page, basically every filter that will fit your car with open disections and part #s and specs.

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...f-oil-filters/

bornpeace

"3UZFTE" if u pay attention at the shelf, for convention oil user Mobil 1 Clean 5W-30 and Mobil 1 Clean high mileage 5W-30 are the same price, same as full synthetic 5W-30 and full synthetic high mileage 5W-30. so why not get a slightly better oil for the same price(already mixed for you like u said). As far as rubber conditioner, Yes you can condition rubber just like you can conditioner your leather seat, the conditioner prevent rubber from drying and cracking. I dont have time to prove or explain to you(sorry). I have use the oil for the last 5yr and it works, i dont know what ur trying to prove. You cant say i am paying too much because is the same price as regular oil. I just share my experience, you can take it or live it.

iamviolet

vote for Castrol Edge...
90 LS400

lexuslspro

We have folks pulling opinions from hats here...this must be some sort of raffle...

somnoboy

Thanks for posting those pictures of the filter cut open and explanation. Enormously informative. Also, that Tundra link was absolutely fabulous, and a must read for anyone who has a First Gen LS. Absolutely great stuff.

Man, I am learning a ton of stuff here. This forum is great...

somnoboy

I like your high mileage suggestion. It certainly is food for thought, and I may very well go with the hi mileage stuff at my next change. Thanks for sharing the tip.