95-97: crank pulley removal question
03-27-10, 03:27 PM
#1
95-97: crank pulley removal question
What is the trick to bust this 22mm nut that holds the pulley on? The car is at top dead center but the pulley will turn with the breaker bar. I would have thought with the car being in gear the motor would not be able to crank or turn. What am I missing? FYI I am changing my crank seal and timing belt...
03-27-10, 05:59 PM
#2
Nm got that damn bolt!! I must have had 300 ft lbs on that thing and still would not bust. Had my compressor at 180psi and still would not budge. Finally braced the breaker bar and cranked the motor. Worked like a charm, well the 2nd try did! First try it just ripped one of my extensions to hell... Talk about some torque.... Check it out......
03-27-10, 06:10 PM
#3
To answer your question as to why the engine turns: The engine is coupled to an automatic transmission which has a torque convertor. The convertor "slips" at low engine RPMs and thus provides no direct connection to the rear wheels. Now, you would be correct IF the Lexus had a manual transmission. Then the wheels would be directly connected to the engine even at low speeds and you could "lock" the engine that way.
So, on to your original question. Some have used a very powerful impact wrench...somewhere in the 500-700 lb-ft range. The impact wrench uses a very quick torque and will break the bolt free. Not everyone has such an impact wrench. I do not.
Then there is the Lexus method. It requires an SST (Special Service Tool) which locks the pulley via 2 holes in the pulley. Would imagine the SST is rather pricey. This would be the preferred route but again, $$$.
There is also the "crank the starter" method where you wedge the breaker bar on the floor and give the starter a quick jolt. Not my recommended route although many swear by it. Or do they swear at it? Scares the heck out of me.
Finally, you can lock the flexplate which the torque convertor is bolted to by removing the rear under-engine protecting cover then the flexplate access plate. From there, you wedge a large allen key into one of the flexplates holes. Then slowly rotate the 22 mm bolt CCW until you feel resistance. You can then give the breaker bar several good tugs and the bolt will come loose. Takes a considerable amount of torque so eat your Wheaties. This is the method I used.
So, on to your original question. Some have used a very powerful impact wrench...somewhere in the 500-700 lb-ft range. The impact wrench uses a very quick torque and will break the bolt free. Not everyone has such an impact wrench. I do not.
Then there is the Lexus method. It requires an SST (Special Service Tool) which locks the pulley via 2 holes in the pulley. Would imagine the SST is rather pricey. This would be the preferred route but again, $$$.
There is also the "crank the starter" method where you wedge the breaker bar on the floor and give the starter a quick jolt. Not my recommended route although many swear by it. Or do they swear at it? Scares the heck out of me.
Finally, you can lock the flexplate which the torque convertor is bolted to by removing the rear under-engine protecting cover then the flexplate access plate. From there, you wedge a large allen key into one of the flexplates holes. Then slowly rotate the 22 mm bolt CCW until you feel resistance. You can then give the breaker bar several good tugs and the bolt will come loose. Takes a considerable amount of torque so eat your Wheaties. This is the method I used.
Last edited by randal; 03-27-10 at 06:15 PM.
03-27-10, 07:46 PM
#4
To answer your question as to why the engine turns: The engine is coupled to an automatic transmission which has a torque convertor. The convertor "slips" at low engine RPMs and thus provides no direct connection to the rear wheels. Now, you would be correct IF the Lexus had a manual transmission. Then the wheels would be directly connected to the engine even at low speeds and you could "lock" the engine that way.
So, on to your original question. Some have used a very powerful impact wrench...somewhere in the 500-700 lb-ft range. The impact wrench uses a very quick torque and will break the bolt free. Not everyone has such an impact wrench. I do not.
Then there is the Lexus method. It requires an SST (Special Service Tool) which locks the pulley via 2 holes in the pulley. Would imagine the SST is rather pricey. This would be the preferred route but again, $$$.
There is also the "crank the starter" method where you wedge the breaker bar on the floor and give the starter a quick jolt. Not my recommended route although many swear by it. Or do they swear at it? Scares the heck out of me.
Finally, you can lock the flexplate which the torque convertor is bolted to by removing the rear under-engine protecting cover then the flexplate access plate. From there, you wedge a large allen key into one of the flexplates holes. Then slowly rotate the 22 mm bolt CCW until you feel resistance. You can then give the breaker bar several good tugs and the bolt will come loose. Takes a considerable amount of torque so eat your Wheaties. This is the method I used.
So, on to your original question. Some have used a very powerful impact wrench...somewhere in the 500-700 lb-ft range. The impact wrench uses a very quick torque and will break the bolt free. Not everyone has such an impact wrench. I do not.
Then there is the Lexus method. It requires an SST (Special Service Tool) which locks the pulley via 2 holes in the pulley. Would imagine the SST is rather pricey. This would be the preferred route but again, $$$.
There is also the "crank the starter" method where you wedge the breaker bar on the floor and give the starter a quick jolt. Not my recommended route although many swear by it. Or do they swear at it? Scares the heck out of me.
Finally, you can lock the flexplate which the torque convertor is bolted to by removing the rear under-engine protecting cover then the flexplate access plate. From there, you wedge a large allen key into one of the flexplates holes. Then slowly rotate the 22 mm bolt CCW until you feel resistance. You can then give the breaker bar several good tugs and the bolt will come loose. Takes a considerable amount of torque so eat your Wheaties. This is the method I used.
Last edited by TRULUX; 03-27-10 at 08:24 PM.
03-28-10, 05:35 AM
#5
TRULUX, if you would like to look at a tutorial for the TB/WP on a '98, see this thread on LOC -> http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...howtopic=61372
03-29-10, 10:36 PM
#6
Thanks for the picture showing where to jam the flywheel, I had read about it several times but never understood where to access it.
This is the specialized tool: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sch64300.html
My timing belt will need changing soon and I bought a chain wrench, planning to try to cinch around the crankshaft pulley as counter torque. I'm not sure if it will work though and am considering either the starter or jammed flywheel approach.
This is the specialized tool: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sch64300.html
My timing belt will need changing soon and I bought a chain wrench, planning to try to cinch around the crankshaft pulley as counter torque. I'm not sure if it will work though and am considering either the starter or jammed flywheel approach.
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