1998 Ls400 Low Idle Dies When Warm Except W Ac On
04-22-15, 02:19 PM
#61
Lead Lap
rugbydad,
i noticed the car jolting when coming to a stop when i tightened my throttle cable a bit too much. if you put your head by the throttle body and manually move the pedal position sensor you'll hear a little click once you move it off of its peg. the click is the magnetic clutch engaging (i think, doesn't really matter but the click is there) and once that happens it's no longer "idling"
that's my only suggestion about that, to see if your throttle cable is too tight and the car is not in actual "idle" conditions. the black thing that the cable is attached to should go all the way back until it stops
i noticed the car jolting when coming to a stop when i tightened my throttle cable a bit too much. if you put your head by the throttle body and manually move the pedal position sensor you'll hear a little click once you move it off of its peg. the click is the magnetic clutch engaging (i think, doesn't really matter but the click is there) and once that happens it's no longer "idling"
that's my only suggestion about that, to see if your throttle cable is too tight and the car is not in actual "idle" conditions. the black thing that the cable is attached to should go all the way back until it stops
04-22-15, 03:30 PM
#62
04-22-15, 05:58 PM
#63
I had the same problem and was told it was the idle control valve well it was the TPS cost a little over a hundred dollar at Lexus and no more problems just replace the throttle positions sensor.
06-13-15, 09:28 AM
#65
Well, doing all these things on my 90K 2000, this weekend. Had a similar problem on my Honda SUV and a new TPS, along with a Fuel pressure regulator, solved the problem.
Think I might put my fuel pressure gauge on the LS and see what is what. Post here as I get data.
Think I might put my fuel pressure gauge on the LS and see what is what. Post here as I get data.
06-15-15, 11:13 AM
#66
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Waiting here with baited breath for those results
07-21-16, 04:57 PM
#67
Finally cleaned my air mix path correctly. Cleaning Those 8 little holes doesnt make any difference, but the two large holes on the top of the air mix path are something you should definitely clean. Mine were dirty as hell and I cleaned them with throttle body cleaner and my car blew a bunch of smoke out the exhaust afterwards
01-13-17, 02:53 AM
#68
When I went to start it up; it wouldn't. I had to continue to crank it while pumping the gas pedal and then holding it all the way down until it caught and then once it catches keep your foot on the gas just enough for it to idle pretty high for 5 seconds around 1800RPM or so.
I understand that this isn't a carburated engine and the whole blah blah blah the pedal pumping and holding does nothing because of technology A and B.
I'm simply stating what I did that worked for me. Unfortunately, I do not know enough about engines and fuel/air systems to explain why or how it works. I hope to be there one day, but that is neither here nor there.
I understand that this isn't a carburated engine and the whole blah blah blah the pedal pumping and holding does nothing because of technology A and B.
I'm simply stating what I did that worked for me. Unfortunately, I do not know enough about engines and fuel/air systems to explain why or how it works. I hope to be there one day, but that is neither here nor there.
02-28-17, 10:18 PM
#69
Driver School Candidate
I'm having a similar issue with my 95 after changing the battery, idles low around 400-600 and changes between those two rpms when running and tranny doesn't engage until around 2k. I'm going to get my caps in my ecu changed soon so hopefully this solves the issue. Do the 95's suffer from the air mix path becoming blocked? If so how do you clean them? Eg what do you have to remove to gain access to them? Photos are a real help.
cheers
cheers
05-08-21, 08:48 PM
#70
Racer
MngreLMatt, you explained things very well and also the way to shoot some compressed air into those bigger holes is a good idea to try before removing and cleaning injectors. My limited English is not good enough to explain things but now there will be many who can be helped reading your post. Aged 98-00 will have this problem 100%, I can say.
The attached drawing is the lower part of the injector. It handles not only the fuel but also the air at the side. A badly clogged throttle body often clogs injector's air mix path. You often need a whole can of cleaner or more to clean the path. To use a compressed air is a nice idea. I must try your method next time when I help someone to clean. In the past, all the people whom I helped were successful and happy except 1 which required to remove injectors. I should have tried your method first.
The attached drawing is the lower part of the injector. It handles not only the fuel but also the air at the side. A badly clogged throttle body often clogs injector's air mix path. You often need a whole can of cleaner or more to clean the path. To use a compressed air is a nice idea. I must try your method next time when I help someone to clean. In the past, all the people whom I helped were successful and happy except 1 which required to remove injectors. I should have tried your method first.
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