alohafaka

I have a 1991 lexus ls400 and when i start my car and throw it into drive once i give it gas the car starts to sputters like no gas is coming threw then it blows the EFI fuse and the car dies after. Not to sure what's wrong with it. I can only drive for about 1 mile or less before the fuse blows. What does the efi fuse power? Is there something grounding out? Also my a/c compressor is gone like it spins when the cars on and driving due to the ls400 motors only having 1 belt to pull everything but the a/c compressor is hardly spinning it's like it's almost frozen could that cause issues to my EFI fuse blowing all the time? Any help is appereciated



ALOHA

Jrezo

I would start by checking your usual emission/fuel controllers. O2 sensors are a usual. You can check the wires to see if there is any exposed wires or even cut wires. You can clean the MAF but i dont think that this should blow a fuse.

Sorry not sure on the AC.

Amskeptic

No, let's not send him down the river. Those things get wrecked by "cleaning" and have not a thing to do with blowing the EFI fuse.
Colin

Jrezo

What,

I clean my MAF, every time i change my oil and air filter. If you clean them with soap and water yes you will wreak them. Use CRC MAF cleaner, ask anyone.

If you read my whole sentence you will see i state that " i dont think this should be the blown fuse". MAF does have to do with the way EFI performs.


So back to his problem, its a short some where. Look at all of your wiring dealing with EFI.

j three

I don't think this will solve your problem but check the wires in your trunk on the left arm that holds the trunk lid. I have read a few threads about electrical shorts that were solved when the damaged wires in this area were fixed. There is a little trim piece that needs to be removed from the arm to access the wires. From what I understand this is one of the few minor but common problems with the first gen LS. I hope this helps.

outbid81

Doesn't really sound like a wire issue because you say you can drive for a mile before it blows. If you had a short, it would blow right away. If you had a component that gets too hot, say a fuel pump, it would blow the fuse then. The fuel pump is cooled and lubricated by gas. How much fuel is in the tank now? As far as the A/C goes, with a cold engine try and turn the compressor clutch by hand. There should be a little resistance but if you can't turn it at all, the compressor is seized and causing a big drain on the engine and that alone could stall it out.

fourthmeal

The fuse that powers the EFI 20A fuse also powers the headlights. Are they working?

From the EFI fuse there is a fusible link by the battery that attaches to a yellow wire near the battery. Check for damage. The yellow wire then splices to a pair of red/black wires that run to the engine compartment fuse relay box.


This stuff is really tough, btw.

bacaudio

My first thought is that the fuel pump is getting hot and it is blowing the fuse. outbid81 is right on the a/c compressor. Do that for sure. You don't want belts breaking as this is what the result will be.

alohafaka

thanks guys ima work on it today again as far as when i start my car it will drive for like 1 mile but right when the fuse blows for the next few minutes it will start to blow every other replacement fuse i put back into the efi fuse holder so i have to wait for alittle before i can put in a new fuse and drive it back to my house again could the fuel pump be getting to much strain because of the a/c compressor being almost frozen?making the motor use much more power which would be more fuel coming from the fuel pump making it heat up and blow the efi fuse????

alohafaka

bumppppppp

Amskeptic

A/C compressor has a locked rotor sensor that signals the A/C ECU to release the clutch. Plus, you the driver get to shut off the A/C with the "A/C" switch if you are testing to see if it blows the EFI fuse. It won't, by the way.

I would guess that your pump has had it. Many die only after they warm up a bit and short their internal windings.
Second possibility would be that the fuel pump resistor is shorting to ground when it warms up. This can be tested by pulling the fuel pump control relay on the right front fender and bridging the #2 and #4 terminals. Do not run the pump for too long this way. You just want to see if the hesitating and fuse blowing go away.
Colin