LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

DIY Engine and Transmission Bushings Replacement

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Old 03-20-11, 01:56 AM
  #31  
silos5
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it took me 5 hours to change engine mounts. I didnt have a lift, I used jacks. It was the first time doing it. It takes time because its not easy to take off the upper nut on the drivers side. Passengers side is 100 time easier. Once I took the nut off, the mount split into 2 pieces (because it old), it was easy to take them out of there, but putting a new mount was hard, there´s no space, so you just need to figgur it out what side to squeeze it there. it was physically and mentaly hard job.
Changing rotos is easier; never dealt with distributer caps.
Old 03-20-11, 08:59 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by kuziwk
This looks like a big job too. So you dont need to remove the power steering rack? I changed the distributer caps and rotors, spark plugs, wires....That took me a long time and i had to remove alot of components via lexls tutorial. Im just not sure if i have the skill for the mounts, how hard are they to replace compared to the distributer caps and rotors?
There is no comparing them to caps and rotors. But if ya do, it's like 100 times harder, maybe more. Everything is hard the first time you attempt it. Even though at times it may seem like they wont fit in there and you want to give up, don't, it's been done thousands of times. It just takes time, and effort. I haven't done mine yet but at least when I do them, and I will, I'll just check out the tutorials. If you go through the tutorials and set your mind to it, you can do it. Just think how good you'll feel when you complete the job.
Old 03-20-11, 10:59 AM
  #33  
kuziwk
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Originally Posted by silos5
it took me 5 hours to change engine mounts. I didnt have a lift, I used jacks. It was the first time doing it. It takes time because its not easy to take off the upper nut on the drivers side. Passengers side is 100 time easier. Once I took the nut off, the mount split into 2 pieces (because it old), it was easy to take them out of there, but putting a new mount was hard, there´s no space, so you just need to figgur it out what side to squeeze it there. it was physically and mentaly hard job.
Changing rotos is easier; never dealt with distributer caps.
no not the rotors on the brakes, the distributer rotors. And if you have never done it i suggest you look into it, mine were the original as were the plug wires. I was screwing around with the car for 6 hours too changing the dist stuff... because you have to drain the coolant. this is known as a major tune up and i heard it cost's $1000 to be done. Plus i had bought new bolts to fix the engine undercover with huge washers. So did you have to remove the power steering rack from the lines, or just unbolt?

Last edited by kuziwk; 03-20-11 at 11:43 AM.
Old 03-20-11, 11:59 AM
  #34  
billydpowe
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Originally Posted by silos5
about changing engine mounts: you need to take the AC/heater valve off, otherwise you brake it lifting the engine. I broke mine, damn expensive piece of plastic
YEP, we broke mine too, but I found one at a salvage yard, $15.
Old 03-20-11, 11:59 AM
  #35  
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I didnt touch the power steering rack at all.
Dont forget to take the AC/heater valve off if you have 98-00 LS or you brake it; I dont know how its with older models though.
Lucky you, billydpowe! I paid 80 €
Old 03-20-11, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by kuziwk
no not the rotors on the brakes, the distributer rotors. And if you have never done it i suggest you look into it, mine were the original as were the plug wires. I was screwing around with the car for 6 hours too changing the dist stuff... because you have to drain the coolant. this is known as a major tune up and i heard it cost's $1000 to be done. Plus i had bought new bolts to fix the engine undercover with huge washers. So did you have to remove the power steering rack from the lines, or just unbolt?
98-00 dont have distributors.
Old 03-20-11, 09:31 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
98-00 dont have distributors.
huh?? than what does it use to spark the plugs, lol. Ok so i dont need to remove the power steering rack on my 92 and you guys are saying about 5 hours for the engine mounts. I did the tranny one and it took me half an hour by the time i jacked up the car. LOn a random note, oving the muffler delete, easy and free , still deciding if it makes the car less classy though.

Last edited by kuziwk; 03-20-11 at 09:35 PM.
Old 03-20-11, 11:39 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by kuziwk
huh?? than what does it use to spark the plugs, lol. Ok so i dont need to remove the power steering rack on my 92 and you guys are saying about 5 hours for the engine mounts. I did the tranny one and it took me half an hour by the time i jacked up the car. LOn a random note, oving the muffler delete, easy and free , still deciding if it makes the car less classy though.
....really?

fully computer controlled, uses a coil-on-plug system with a camshaft position sensor. (and crank sensor)
Old 03-21-11, 09:18 PM
  #39  
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so after contemplating, i'm leaning towards oem mounts rather than aftermarket. i read puredrifter is steadfastly set against aftermarket when it comes to these. spoke with a few mechanics as well and they said the same. for those who used aftermarket mounts, can u prove it wrong?
Old 03-21-11, 10:35 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by wcoastls
so after contemplating, i'm leaning towards oem mounts rather than aftermarket. i read puredrifter is steadfastly set against aftermarket when it comes to these. spoke with a few mechanics as well and they said the same. for those who used aftermarket mounts, can u prove it wrong?
See the attached info re: LS 400 OEM liquid-filled engine mounts. There is a lot of engineering in those mounts. I don't know if the aftermarket manufacturers have duplicated the OEM design - or bettered it for that matter. But when I get around to doing mine, I plan to pay the incremental cost to purchase OEM and get original Lexus engineered smoothness back in my car. YMMV
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Old 03-22-11, 08:41 PM
  #41  
kuziwk
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lexus...Q5fAccessories


OEM quality, with hydralic....seems ligit to me...im buying them when i can get the money, tax return anyone??
Old 04-05-11, 08:50 AM
  #42  
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Wouldn't those Ebay ones also require the metal piece, I believe they are called the engine torque damper mounts, or something like that. I know if you buy from the dealer they come with it but a lot of other places just come with the rubber mount, not the metal piece. Can you re-use the metal piece from the old mounts?
Old 06-21-11, 12:39 PM
  #43  
royale455
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Default AC/heater valve

Great thread. Thanks for posting.

I have been looking through diagrams to find the AC heater valve. Can anyone describe where it is, or better yet post a pic? I'm planning on changing all three mounts this weekend and would rather not break something if it is avoidable.

Thanks - Gary
Old 06-21-11, 01:30 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by royale455
Great thread. Thanks for posting.

I have been looking through diagrams to find the AC heater valve. Can anyone describe where it is, or better yet post a pic? I'm planning on changing all three mounts this weekend and would rather not break something if it is avoidable.

Thanks - Gary
Check out #12 in this link, it will show the heater valve bolted to the firewall.
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/cooling/coolant.html
Old 06-21-11, 04:33 PM
  #45  
billydpowe
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we used ebay mounts, and have a smooth solid ride. oh, Jon took the right side out first then replaced the left side and then went back and installed the right side, had a little more room that way. the heater control valve is here.
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