The LS is lookin great man! I didn't realize you shimmed the accumulators already - good work, i cant recommend that mod highly enough. How thick was the total shim/washers you used?
The LS is lookin great man! I didn't realize you shimmed the accumulators already - good work, i cant recommend that mod highly enough. How thick was the total shim/washers you used?
Keep the updates coming
Gene
Thanks for the comments. Yes, I did already deal with the tranny. When I drove it around long enough, it would eventually make the O/D light flash, which meant a stored, failed code. So I pulled the code, and came across a few articles, but it was basically an "open" in the solenoid circuit. However, upon reading the R&R part of that, I also stubled upon the performance A340 section and...like you said, I couldnt help but be attracted by better performance. I am also a member on Supraforums, which is where I got it from. People came up with the weirdest ideas, but what appeared the best, easy, and most practical was the washers. I am quite sure I used 1/2" regular washers, I used 2 per accumulator, so 6 all together. I can't give you the exact measurement, but I would imagine washers don't vary to much from one manufacture to the other. Also, I really don't think it makes a SUPER big difference if you use 3 washers per accumulator, but it might be a little difficult to put back together on your back, but 2 was fine for me. I did also take out both of the shift solenoids that were visible to me, in order to prevent my O/D light from coming back I soaked them in P.B. Blaster for 2-3 hours. One thing I will mention is that almost every connector I touched, broke, so don't be affraid if you break one or two, there's no tension on the wires. Also use a big oil catch pan to catch everything that falls, I say this because I had a spring that I missed when I read the thread, however I put it back together, and while draining the old oil, I had an "extra" spring in the catch pan, so I hopped back on the net, research the spring, and took care of it, I have not had any problem since. It was quite fun trying to do this on my back with the car on jack stands, but with a little creativity it's done with basic knowledge, tools, and skill, it never hurts to do a ton of research first either, I can attest the trickiest thing is putting the valve body back up, because not only does it hold all 3 accumulators up, but theres a spring loaded check ball that I overlooked. If you do your research right, you will have all your angles right, but it sounds like you have you know what your after, so... after puting silicone on the pan and tightening it up, I filled it with fresh T-IV, then proceeded to run it for a few miles to get the new fluid through the gears, then drained and filled with fresh T-IV again. I have put about 50 miles on the car, and haven't had the O/D light come back, and the tranny works great, but it's not like its new or flawless, it's still a slugish beast, but it drives nice and shifts smooth def quicker, although it's not a ferrari split second shift....
I have put about 50 miles on the car since everything has been together. Exhaust hasn't been fixed because I am a busy man, too many cars, not enough time. I did notice that when I press the O/D button, and turn it off, and turn it back on, I get a tranny code. I am pretty sure it is the No.1 shift solenoid as I come up to stop signs or lights, it will start from 2nd gear. I then will pull it down manually into 1st or "L", it will then shift into 1st. Also I noticed that it will only happen when I turn off overdrive and turn it back on, it then will blink the O/D light at me, and accelerates like sheiiiiit from a dead stop. However, if I leave the O/D button in, it then will act as normal and shift 1 through 4. Also the kickdown needs to be adjusted, otherwise it runs great. I am going to drive it as a winter car.
Nice work you done it i have been looking at getting a older LS for a dd as turbo lexus arent know for being reliably lol. I read thru all 8 pages cant wait to see what she looks like all finished up.
you only used 2 washers each? ****, i think i used 6 in each of the accumulators in my supra (about 7mm total) - that definitely made the shift pretty damn sharp. Go have another look at that supraforums thread, i was there way back then too
Nice work you done it i have been looking at getting a older LS for a dd as turbo lexus arent know for being reliably lol. I read thru all 8 pages cant wait to see what she looks like all finished up.
Thanks for coming by and taking a look. I had been searching for an LSD for my GS430 when I come across this LS4 like 3 miles from my home. Needless to say I jumped on it, I have now spent a fair amount of money on this car trying to "restore" it to a more recent condition. That being said it has been a learning experience, however had I to do it again, I would have swapped in a 2JZGTE in it, and done a little fab work as opposed to leave it stock. I have yet to fully get it complete to sell, so I think I might put some winter tires on it and see if it can get me through the winter. That turbo IS3 must be fun, I am currently debating if I should sell my 430, and get a 300 to do an Aristo swap.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmacrae
you only used 2 washers each? ****, i think i used 6 in each of the accumulators in my supra (about 7mm total) - that definitely made the shift pretty damn sharp. Go have another look at that supraforums thread, i was there way back then too
I mean 6 washers is fine, I just didn't want to have it bang into 2nd or 3rd when I sold it to some 50 year old business man. I have also had to be contious of who is my target market on this otherwise I would have put flowmasters on it a long time ago. That being said, washers will firm the shift up, where as the rods they were talking about, I think that is a bit much, thats gotta be too firm.... for a Lexus.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Bentley
Love the detailed pics (car porno?). Did you install that antenna you got? If not, could you tell me how much the whole assembly weighs?
Your welcome, I agree, Pictures > Words. I did install that antenna I bought a while back, they always recommend a special tool, but fuuuck that, I dont like to spend money on special tools. 2 screwdrivers and it came off fine, if you use masking tape around the mast you wont scratch the paint or chrome nut that holds it down. However, I do have the old one laying around, the only thing it doesn't have is the actually antenna mast which probably weighs a fraction of a pount. But the unit I have (minus the mast) weights 2-3 lbs, my scale has a hard time reading so low, but it isn't over 3, and isn't under 2.
Hope this all helps, feel free to keep asking questions as I love conversating about these cars and otherones. Thanks for coming by, later guys.
Hey guys, it's been a while since I have updated my thread, as there would no point to post useless crap. That being said, the reason why I am posting now is that I am prefacing my "new" build/project. I am, currently not very happy with my LS4 build. I am pleased with my build, but there just seems like there much more life in this beast than it depicts. So I decided since my buddy and I are looking for good projects to build, I already had one, but how could it be made better? Well.... As everyone knows, these V8s are pretty dope right out of the box, but it seems like there could be a little more. So I am going turbo. That is right, I'm going 1UZFTE, in this 92' LS4. Along with a couple of internet buddies, and some local gear head friends, I think I can do it for under $1000, not including my labor of course. The most costly things to consider in my budget is the hot side piping, the cool side piping w/ intercooler, and a turbo. All in all, I will be doing this for almost a cheap as possible, and document my build pretty decently to give you guys an understanding of what it takes. Don't let anyone ever tell you it's easy, but don't let anyone ever stop you from doing what you please. Here is my inspiration, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZS9rToLAhU .
Step 1. I decided since I was running a single, I did have enough room under the hood. I am not a big fan of the remote turbo setup, so single it is. Unfortunately there is no real easy way of squeezing a 1000* turbine in the hood without the necessary requirements. One of the things I had to take care of was the 3"-4" down pipe, that will travel from the ABS pump area, and turn down in the front of the motor and travel underneath the oil pan, and the rest is history. The problem is that there are radius rods that control the front back and forth movement, the problem is, is that it is too large and causes the down pipe to interfere with the radiator outlet. Here is the picture of my radius rod in the car.
Here is a picture of someone who is helping me out, this is the right compared to the left, you can see how much to hack out of it.
Step 2. Delete ABS. Still in the process of this, but with a total of $25 in fittings and lines, I am able to really low ball my budget as I was really considering making AN lines/fitting/adapters and that is good money. Instead, I will show you what I am doing, once I get there.
Update...
Just a little update for you guys. I recently decided that I am going turbo. Along with that build, I need to clear some room under the hood for this to happen. I needed to remove the ABS system for the placement of the turbo and piping. So, I had to reshape the lines, and double flare the new ends. One thing I did find is that most foreign, including Toyota uses a 10mm X 1.0 fitting, however the line is 3/16". So, after calling a bunch of foreign parts distributors, online, and local auto stores. Hell, I even have a Napa distrubutor really close, they had all the fittings, but they didn't have a "T" union. So after a few days of chasing my a$$, I just bought 3/16" fittings and unions. So one the brake side of the line, it is 10mm X 1.0 fitting and on the master cylinder side, they are 3/16", so it's a little bit of a hybrid, but it will work fine and cost me a total of $21.63. I purchased (6) 3/16" brake line fitting, and (2) 3/16" 3-way unions. Now, I will say that I have my own brake/fuel line flaring kit, but one can be borrowed from a local buddy, parts stores, and tool distributors (harbor freight). All in all, it took me about 2-3 hours to make sure I had enough room for my custom header, turbo, and supporting accessories. The result, no ABS and enough room to start my build...
Just a picture of what I did.
Again.
Finished product.
And an overall shot of what I did.
Also, I picked up this head at a local yard for $45, as it has a bent valve. I am only using it to fabricate a passenger side turbo manifold, this way I know it will actually bolt up with no problems.
Wow, I was going to reply with some stuff, but I see its an older thread and probably have addressed what I was going to add.
My 1991 LS400 looks just like that (same color too), only it has a tan interior and does NOT have the traction control or CD. Being a southern car, mine is still 100% rust free, even under the doors and the interior is still really nice. I have personally never seen a rusty LS400... this was the first I had ever seen with rust, but I dont live up north either.
As you may know now, some of these cars do have that warping of the dash above the center vents over time, but still hold up better than many American cars of that era. Mine has hardened some, but has not warped yet.
I had the smoke on startup to... I am guessing it was the idle-up valve? That was causing the smoking on mine on startup and the leak on the PS was that small hose coming out of the back of the reservior.
With motor mounts, valve cover gaskets and what ever is going on with my steering was fixed, mine would be a good car, it has me so frustrated now I could run it into the lake.
Do you really need to delete the ABS? It's too bad because it truly does help.
Yeah, unfortunately it does have to come out in order to provide the necessary room under the hood to house the turbo and assorted piping. The only real benefit that I see myself loosing is the ability to stop as fast in slippery situations, otherwise on a dry day, non-ABS is just as effective. I don't mean to start the age old debate, but if you have cruised my threads you will see out of the 5 or 6 cars we own, only half of them have ABS. I have been driving around non-ABS cars for a long time, and am not too concerned as it won't be my daily, nor is it going to see any slick or slippery conditions.
Just waiting on a Turbo now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 91LS400LEX
Wow, I was going to reply with some stuff, but I see its an older thread and probably have addressed what I was going to add.
My 1991 LS400 looks just like that (same color too), only it has a tan interior and does NOT have the traction control or CD. Being a southern car, mine is still 100% rust free, even under the doors and the interior is still really nice. I have personally never seen a rusty LS400... this was the first I had ever seen with rust, but I dont live up north either.
As you may know now, some of these cars do have that warping of the dash above the center vents over time, but still hold up better than many American cars of that era. Mine has hardened some, but has not warped yet.
I had the smoke on startup to... I am guessing it was the idle-up valve? That was causing the smoking on mine on startup and the leak on the PS was that small hose coming out of the back of the reservior.
With motor mounts, valve cover gaskets and what ever is going on with my steering was fixed, mine would be a good car, it has me so frustrated now I could run it into the lake.
Hope yours is coming along good.
Hey thanks for coming by, glad to hear you've had pretty good luck with your car. I have been fortunate enough to be able to just keep this thing parked for a little less than a year, and still not lose money on it. I am sure that it was the idle up valve causing the smoking before, but now that I have taking those provisions out, I won't be working about it coming back anytime soon. Thanks again for the thoughts, and coming by.
Hey guys, just doing a little update, hope you don't mind.
Again, I need the clearance to be able to fit the massive 3" tube in between the head and the strut tower. It just wouldn't have worked out anywhere else without as little of work as I have in. I have spent a total of $75 on fittings and unions, a brake flaring kit, and a spare cyli head to fab up an exhaust mani. Anyways, here's what I started with.
And here's what I ended with... No AC lines, no ABS, no PS reservoir yet as I'm still modifying this....
Been working on my buddy's Olds Acheeba with the 2.4 Quad 4, not as exciting or as fun as the xUZFE..... Later, more to come when I find the time.
Wish my engine was broke down that far... I am in dire need of valve cover gaskets!
Speaking of Achieva. My mom has a '97 Achieva SL with the 2.4L... 189K miles now... to my amazement, its been a very reliable car... even after I hit a deer with it in 2006! It was my fall back car today when my Lexus decided to kick up a fuss.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3UZFTE
Been working on my buddy's Olds Acheeba with the 2.4 Quad 4, not as exciting or as fun as the xUZFE..... Later, more to come when I find the time.
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