Got $100 Get Some Performance ,gas And Smoothness Back,The ultimate DIY all in 1 fix
Ok so i like to make a good title so you already know what i am going to say.
It has been mentioned before but i had to put my name behind it as well .
I bought each for $50 and WOW the difference is more than substantial to each as i did not do them at the same time so i could compare them.
Both are OEM Toyota parts and not aftermarket.
The coolant temp sender is located under the throttle on the passenger side.
Open the rad cap to release the pressure ,( don't need to mention the engine should be cool) then re cap it to keep it from leaking out.
You have to remove the plenum cover and altleast push aside the intake if not pop it off .
Its on an angle and it easy to find as it is copper. You 'll need a extension that is able to get into tight spots .
It is easy enough to release with a bit of force , I did not replace the gasket just a touch of teflon tape and it is still not leaking a month later.
Screw in the new one , and rev the engine to 2500 for 5 minutes (cap off)to make sure no air pockets are in the system and your done.
So here are the results from this mod over the month, The throttle and tranny can be sloppy .
Instantly the throttle and tranny shifter in sync. No more lagging and unknown gears to go into . It holds gears long enough and the throttle is very crisp . With my exhaust i can also hear a much sharper valve note which is usually only at cold start up. I always thought i had to live with the soft response , not any more and i love it.
The gas is pretty much the same but i keep pressing it as it feels like a good 20 hp gain . Yeah that sounds impossible and i can't prove it .
If you ever noticed you car seems to perform much better when the engine is cold and then really sloppy when at operating temperature this is for you.
What i have also learned is the sensor is filled with wax that is measured by its viscosity to tell the temps. Well this wax breaks down and hardens causing the readings to be off.
The tranny mount is sort of easy to change .
You need a set of jacks and stands to get the car up .then another jack to hold the tranny in place so it does not stretch the other mounts and break them or strain the engine to tranny connection. The main point is being able to get the mount back in place as it just cradles the tranny up to the subframe.
I read before it was real easy to do . Well it is easy but not quick.
You need to loosen a ton of bolts
3 for the pan shield to bracket
4 for the bracket to subframe
4 for the bracket to mount
4 for the mount to the tranny. ( i think)
Install is the reverse. (just incase )
Anyway it took an hour(not the 20 minutes i was expecting) as i was going slow , under a car and working around my modified exhaust.
It tires your arms because of the angles.
The old mount was separating from the molded steel bracket but not cracked only slightly showing compression lines.
It was also very hard as it held tight as i loosened the bolts on it .The new one was very soft and kept swinging around as i tightened them up.
So immediately I noticed a change in everything again.
I could no longer feel the sine wave of ignition i have previously ( unless i look/feel for it). Ever since i could remember i could feel the ignition change up and down in a slow drone when i rev to 2000 rpm parked.
It is not dynamic as i can feel it parked ,
it is not rpm dependant , it creates a faster or slower sine wave type vibration depending on the engine temp ,so it is not a physical weight imbalance ,
the colder the faster or shorted waves it has.
Only thing left is ignition timing as a result of o2 sensors usually after the cats since the ecu creates a sine wave using fuel to tell if they are working or not.
I already replaced the 2 after the cat , so i am stumped for now. other than changing the pre cat ones.
(that is another issue altogether i am tracing) .
No vibrations at all now , also the highway ride is much smoother , everything is smoother , i love this piece of rubber.
I have engine mounts but am doing things in stages to gauge their actual results not a combined result.
I have a list of about $1000 worth of parts no labor for all the things i am maintaining on my car this year.
What do you expect for 350 000km.
Do it and you'll feel like you bought a brand new car.
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Great advice, i experience similar sluggish feeling when its hot outside. The mounts were on my to-do list on the GS, I might as well knock this sensor out of the way while im at it. Thanks for the write up.
BTW , if you are doing the sensor , use an OEM one and not an aftermarket sender as it is one of the most cruical parts of how your car runs since it decides the map to use combining the MAF and o2 sensors to work best.