Lexozz

Nice work, I'm subscribing to this thread.

JBrady

Great idea... find a Honda O ring that is the same size and that may do the trick.

Great posting

BTW, how many miles are on your LS400?

Last Q: Is there a recommendation for cleaning an alternator that has some fluid dripped on it that has not yet failed?

EUBT

Better late than never, here's a link to some pics:

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...ndpost&p=30429

robbyboy32

Big thank you to Zero. You're the **** bro. This tutorial is amazing.

Zero_One

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man!! Glad you found it useful!

clipster

Greatly appreciate this write-up. Having just finished doing this as a result, I thought I'd add a little value by listing the part numbers needed. (MY98)

O-ring #1 - 90301-53007

O-ring #2 - 90301-18013

O-ring #3 - 90301-11016

fixmiester

This is great information; thanks for the tutorial. One thing that was not mentioned in your fix, that shows up a lot on posts for the earlier models, is the Idle Control Valve. My '99 has what appears to be the same valve on the PS pump, and it appears to be leaking. However, since the fan blows any dripping fluid all over the pump, and alternator, it's hard to tell exactly where my leak is coming from, despite wiping it clean and checking several times. Do the '98-'00 series have the same problems with the ICV leaking that earlier models did, or do the O-rings usually solve the problem? I guess that valve is still pretty expensive, based on earlier posts; I'd hate to replace it if it's not necessary. Thanks,

Steve

ravig292

This was very informative thanks! I don't know if anybody said this yet because i skimmed through kind of but before people go in and take out the pump(which for me was a really hard because the bolts were so tight it seemed as if it was welded! Check the hose clamps to see if they need replacing. In many cases like mine it leaks from the hose because the clamps have gotten weak. Mine was so weak that i could pinch it with fingers. But if do see that it leaking from the pump in the spots that Zero_one saw it leak from then you can go ahead and change the rings.

LScowboyLS

does anyone know what are the most common leak areas for 95-97 models in order of how common?

hi pressure hose?
low pressure hose?
reservoir o-ring?
pump o-rings?
rack?

I have cleaned the underside of the car, and yet when I go back to look, the leak seems to be from ALL of the ABOVE

Shmee

iTrader: (3)

If you are comfortable doing so this method works well for finding PS leaks.
obviously you need some common sense to be sure you do not kill/injure yourself, damage your car or other property by doing something stupid.

If you have the ability to do so on a alignment rack is ideal but if you know of a place like a loading ramp for trucks (or anywhere that you can hang the nose of the car off of), and have a buddy you can trust, drive the car right to the edge so the wheels are close to the drop off with the nose is hanging over the edge as much as possible. Do this as soon after you have cleaned everything as not to obscure everything with excess fluid. With the belly pan off, the car in park and the e-brake applied, have your buddy turn the wheels from side to side right to lock and hold for a second before swinging back the other way to do the same. This will spike the pressure in the system and any leaks should start to run quickly or spray out and be obvious. Be careful as you do not want to have any PS fluid sprayed in your eyes, so wear safety glasses or eye-protection of some sort. The biggest leaks should be fairly obvious and easy to spot. If you are leaking at junctions, if possible check the tightness of connections and adjust where possible or replace gaskets/seals/washers and retest. if adjustment is not possible or gaskets/seals/washers are not the source of the leaks, replace the parts as needed. I have seen many cars where previous mechanics and even home-wrenchers have forgotten to install crush washers, seals or cross-threaded fittings causing major leaks so be sure to assess your leak properly. It might be as simple as you are missing a crush-washer or seal somewhere and only need a $0.10 part vs a $50,100,500 part or parts!

Fluid leaks in pressurized systems are ALWAYS a path of least resistance. However, fixing one leak can show another leak in a different place simply as that is now the weakest link in the system.
Aside from going through the entire system and replacing everything, you're going to have to go step by step to isolate and fix all your leaks as you find them.

good luck

LS400FAN

shmee....very good post and excellent advice on how to proceed finding and fixing the leaks. I'm just beginning to get into the problem on my 98 LS, the first thing I've noticed is the fluid in being forced up and out of the reservoir through the cap. After topping the sys off with Lucas stop leak for the past 2 years, I'm thinking that there is a clog somewhere which is preventing the fluid from circulating and the return fluid is being forced out through the top. Does this make sense and is there any advice you have in this regard? I plan to clean the solenoid screen, deactivate and plug the ACV, and bleed the sys to see if this helps, any other ideas I should consider? Thanks much.

Wakko47

Great writeup...still helping people three years later. What's the ACV and why is it ok to plug it? I just yanked dad's alternator and am doing the big pressure hose, figured I'd reseal the pump while I'm here. Don't want to climb into this thing again.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

air control valve, used to slightly increase the idle when the wheel is turned all the way to one side. Tends to leak/fail and when it does it spews PS fluid into the intake, making the car smoke a fair bit.

Wakko47

And this is the informative thread I just cited in the other thread. Perhaps it will be obvious when I get the pump out, but how do you cap this off?

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

I used a properly sized oil drain plug (get a shallow one) and some FIPG on the threads.