j2b4o

Did you flush the system?
Was it pushing fluid?
Did you bleed the system?
What type of fluid was used?

No noise and hard to turn would make me look hard at the pump and the rack.

joerand1

NEOfate, Question, where do I get a EVO or replacement sreen? Is there a way to repair the screen if torn? Can the rack and pinon operate without the solenoid? If yes, how to bypass it?
Sorry bout all the questions, just can find a seller for the solenoid.

richfung

Changed pump, pluged IAC, no leak and no noise anymore.

Maserati

iTrader: (1)

Is this for motors Pre-vvti or vvti?

revjohnnyg

Thanks for the "how-to" on Power Steering. I changed my motor mounts yesterday and found lots of Power Steering fluid on the bottom of the engine.

I have noticed a constant roar of the pump lately.

I didn't have time to trace the leak back to the source to determine exactly where it was leaking from.

Sounds like I will have another fun day under the car yet again!!

1996 LS400 218K Just bought it in Feb 2013. Lots of work yet to do.

dengman

hmm.. i guess this is where all my power steering fluid went and why its blowing smoke when it starts up. Looks like I need to pull my pump off and rebuild it and do what ever to get it to stop blowing white smoke..

YagerD

Great write up. One question though, couldn't you just loop the 2 vacuum lines on the valve or cap them off? If you plug those and the nipples on the intake and I take manifold wouldn't that work?

forHeisris

Option B) You use your old/existing ACV as your plug. This takes about 10minutes to fabricate, but I prefer using this part because it fits so well, and has a beveled edge that is designed for the slot.

1) Take the ACV, and put the plastic part in a vice, squeeze until it cracks , turn, repeat. The plastic will easily come off. If you don't have a vice, improvise with a hammer, pliers and so forth.

2) You will end up with an all metal piece, that has a concave end where the plastic piece was. (Further down pictures will show you what you will end up with) This has a valve running through it, which you can easily knock out with a small object.

3) Clear it out. - Valve stem and such from inside the bolt.

4) The following step is most likely unnecessary if you have access to a welder (and JB Weld would probably work just fine... just would need to give it more time to setup).

[
After trying JB weld and letting it set for a couple of days everything was going fine until after about 15 minutes of the engine running. Then a "Pffft" sound followed by "Psssssssshht". The pressure shot the JB weld out of the ACV valve. Fortunately no power steering fluid got on the alternator.

forHeisris

After taking the solenoid off a 92, 94 and 96 LS400 this procedure worked for all. Vice grips on the solenoid as pictured and then use a rubber mallet to tap the vice grips counter clockwise to loosen. Hope this helps.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

step 1: take acv to auto parts store
step 2: buy appropriately sized drain plug (match thread pitch x diameter and approx. length)
step 3: ?????? (hint- install drain plug)
step 4: profit from your no longer leaking (or present) acv.

crcuevas

I'm really having a tuff time remove the pressure hoses from the rack and pinion. Any suggestions? The angle is really bad and can't get a good grip. Please advise!!!!!

Omen

Experiencing same problems hopefully it's the same !

Lexinky

I replaced my high pressure hose/line assembly this past week because of a leak on the pump side where the metal tubing changed to hose.

I know what you are saying, it is in a tight spot and a bad angle on the lower fitting on the rack.

I used a 3/8 long handle rachet and about 12" 's of extensions (maybe an 8" and a 4" can't be sure) and an 11/16" six point socket. I had to use an 11/16 socket since it was a 6 point and it fit well.

It was darn tight and I almost gave up thinking I was going to break the banjo fitting, but it did break free.

Not sure of your level of experience so I 'll say something you know already, keep the socket firmly seated straight on the banjo fitting when trying to loosen and tighten. like you said it's at a bad angle and it's easy to let it get crooked.

I got it changed out and no more leaks and for some reason the steering is much smoother (it takes less effort). Perhaps there was a restriction in the old hose and that may have caused higher pressures and therefore leaking. Hard to say.

Be sure to use the crush washers on the banjo fitting connections at the pump and the rack.

If you need to replace the line also, make sure you watch how the hose and tube is routing as you tighten the connections up and re-use the metal brackets at the length of metal line as it runs across the front of the engine that have rubber bushings in them to hold everything firm and tight in the position you put it.

I hope this gets to you and helps you out.

sheila814

Although the ACV or ICV would leak into the alternator and was stated as the cause of the leaking issue from the power steering pump, I would like to point out that the power steering pump housing has a hole in it for letting fluid escape the inside of the pump when the seals and o-rings get worn. I just replaced mine (to late for my alternator) and there was no power steering fluid in the ICV or the vacuum lines. I didn't remove/replace the ICV because I couldn't break the seal the bolt had to the p/s housing (i'm a 66 year old lady with limited muscle capacity, ha ha). I will keep and eye on this valve to make certain my new alternator doesn't get ruined. I am going to make a shield to mount between the p/s pump and the alternator to redirect any fluid. I understand lexus starting installing these once they found out how stupid their engineering was in the first place (drip hole mounted over alternator..hmmmmmmm).

dicer

And if you come up with a real good design for the shield keep us posted, hmmm maybe start selling them.