Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Sorry guys about the 2 missing pictures, I unfortunately do not have them.. they have been deleted on the webserver indadvertently due to space issues in the past. So I hope the guide still proves some use without them.. I see it has helped a few people and even just helping one makes the write up more than worth it.

LILEVO

iTrader: (1)

My power steering doesn't work at idle. The wheel is super hard to turn. At RPM > 800 then it works fine, one finger action.

Could the valve on the pump cause this problem or something else?

willhickey

iTrader: (1)

by any chance (i know this is a dumb question) does anybody know what the black box next to the solenoid is called? did i damage it by opening it up? it connects to the steering shaft...........thanks thanks

agood1

So is the solenoid the part that firms the steering effort when at speed? My 93 is always loose, very easy to turn even at highway speeds.

91LS400vgb

I'd like to first thank everyone who has contributed to this thread, esp. Neofate. I thought I'd share this in case it might help someone. I was able to loosen the solenoid valve on my own LS several years ago using the screwdriver and hammer method. Yesterday, I was working on a relative's 91 LS and no matter how much I hammered away, it would not budge. Both of my vise grips are too big to grab around the solenoid, however I have a slim water pump pliers that fit well. The problem was that it would invariably slip whenever I tried to loosen it (which is why I was trying the hammer method). So what I did was use a vise grip to hold the handles of the water pump pliers together. I then was able to concentrate all my strength on loosening the solenoid. It worked great.

By the way, it was amazing how much crud was on the screen. I cleaned it all out, and the steering felt great while I had the front end up in the air. However, once I lowered it, I felt the same stiffness that it had before. I am going to check the resistance of the solenoid and do the click test next. The repair manual says that the resistance should be 6-11 ohms.

OneJay

iTrader: (14)

THANK YOU FOR THIS!!!!! I just had this same issue with the ACV valve on my SC w/1jz, and was burning a lot of ps fluid. I thought it was a leak at first, but never noticed any dripping fluid. I plugged up the valve with JB weld (didn't remove the plastic part, just filled the bolt and plastic outlets with the stuff) and no more white smoke!!!

I'm just waiting on word about a replacement, but the JB weld should tide me over for now.

KMinAF

The air valve from almost any toyota will fit. The one used in the early model trucks is all metal and at the local Pic a Part cost me $1.00.

DonCorleone

iTrader: (6)

Power steering pump has been leaking massively lately, found a remanufactured one at the junkyard that looked leak free, swapped it in before and during halftime of the superbowl no more leaks but it was smoking terribly, worse than before, total smoke screen. Fingered that the ACV was in worse shape on this pump than the one that came with the car.

Didn't want to putz around looking for a bolt that fit or remove the pump again just to do it, so today, I just did this;


(shown as tested on old pump, didn't take pics of actual install on car)

plugged the vacuum nipples with a short length of hose and a stove bolt tefloned/shoved and zip tied in. Took it for a spin, much better, still some fluid in the engine as it smoked a little but should subside over the next couple of days.

moat

Makes sense to me.

Lexus wants a lot of money for the return hose. Could I just buy any hose from an auto shop instead? What size and any particular kind of hose (that's good with Toyota T4 ATF)?

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

no, the rack lines are high pressure lines.

you can take your old lines to any hydraulic hose shop and have them rebuilt for cheap though.

moat

PD, I was not asking about the hi pressure tube (oem $400). I was asking about the return hose (oem $130) that goes to PS reservoir.

DonCorleone

iTrader: (6)

From the resevoir to the hard line between the wheel well and headlight (under the intake?)
I believe it's a 3/8 interior diameter rubber hose you can buy by the foot at any autoparts house. <$3 a foot.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

that FEED hose is from the pump to the reservoir is only ~$30-35 OEM and can be substituted by any standard rubber tubing that fits.

the RETURN tube goes from the rack to the reservoir, and comes in 3 sections that totals out at ~$250-320 OEM.

ChrisG1000

Thanks for the post and to all who have replied. I've been having PS issues lately- mostly noise and hard to turn at low speeds. I will give this a shot.
Thanks again!

mmartin888

great write up, can you just plug the two hoses at the top for a quick check. I am having some white smoke and I have noticed power steering fluid in the hose on the center of the engine. And if I do will I still have power steering and not mess up something. My power steering is screaming and buckling along with brownish fluid. I am not able as of now to get it in the air. Its a 92 sc400, thanks Mike