Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Heya,

Well spent the better part of this afternoon working on the PS systems. Removed the Solenoid again, cleaned screen.. Replaced it.. and tested function with 'on' on key. It clicks, so it is opening I suppose.

Then I removed the undercarriage engine shield... (Lots of bolts on that thing)

Got up into my ACV idle valve on the PS pump. Pulled the two vacuum hoses off it.. and then pulled them out and off the intake up top.

I've plugged/capped the intake where they went in.. and I went to Adv. Auto Parts and got what was said to work.

A 14 x 1.5 Bolt with washer(gasket type). It was labled as an oil pan bolt.

Anyhow, it was the right size, but the thread pattern is slightly different, no visible to the naked eye in general, but when you put it on, it only goes a 1/4 way then it stops. It is eating up the threads if you were to try and force it. (It also uses a 5/8'ths) to maneuver. I didn't trust it. So I went back, of course they had nothing that would fit the 'Metric thread'..

I went to Lowes.. nothing.

Home depot, nothing.

Hardware stores all closed on me.

So My car is jacked up awaiting an answer.

Hrmm -- I've heard some people took their Valve and ripped the black part off and somehow sealed the end of that bolt and used it as a cap.

I wouldn't mind doing this as it obviously fits.

Anyone mind telling me how to go about doing this with the regular ACV valve. I don't want to break it where it can't be used for the purpose, and would like to know what to do to seal it. Because the center is a valve.

I have access to a welder and other tools. How is it done to turn this valve into basically a regular bolt to seal the hole?

Seems easy enough, just need to know a good procedure for getting it solid. Leaving it as is, and say capping the nipples on the back wouldn't do any good, it would just leak I'm sure, and its under high pressure.

Any and all tips/answers, and if anyone has created a plug out of their ACV valve that would extremely helpful.

If no one has any idea,.. then where can I find this plug? I need to find it tommorow somewhere. The auto parts stores don't have it. And frankly I don't know what to 'ask' for -- What I have 'looks' like it fits,.. but its a thread pattern thing.

I have Adv. auto parts, autozone (same chain I think) -- Westwood (only one store).. and Napa around here. I didn't find one hardware store anywhere close.. they've all closed down.

Thanks!

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

I am going to be modifying this bad ACV in just a few hours, daylight is soon. So any quick replies would be great if any of you are reading this.

I basically want to remove the black/plastic portion. Then be left with the bolt (which has nut welded onto it).

The bolt is hollow with the valve stem inside it. So I need to plug this, and then it is ready to go back on as a regular 'plug'.

Do you guys think after I'm done, using teflon tape and a small rubber washer would be ok? I'd like to prevent any possible leaks, and I think that will be more than enough -- Considering from factory it had no teflon nor washer.
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Here is the image of what I'll be working with.. I'll try to take pictures of my work for you guys:

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

I guess the simplest question here, is whats the best way to get that plastic backing off? Just crack it with a hammer?

avalon42

iTrader: (1)

I'd just buy the bolt to plug the hole. I would use a washer regardless to make sure it seals.

Och

iTrader: (3)

Neo, since you already have the ACV valve removed, why dont you go to a store that sells bolts, and have them determine the thread size and sell you a bolt that will work?

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

It wasn't that simple for me, and I wanted to go ahead and use the idea I had of fabricating my bad ACV into a plug since it was designed for the housing already. -- I did take it to many stores, it is an odd thread pitch,.. and even a 14mm bolt of the right size wasn't the right thread (Eventually someone would have had it, but I got the idea in my head to just make it myself if it was going to be so rare for me to fine ). The oil pain 14mm x 1.5 (with the 5/8 nuts on them) was the wrong thread for the slot (That I found at an autoparts store). You can force them in, but you are stripping the previous threads,.. basically tapping it out by brute force with a ratchet. Metal shavings can get inside, and it can wreak havoc, as all wrong threads can.

I did fix my issues! Just posted a DIY of every step I took in detail, with a few pictures sprinkled in .. Its long, but I think valuable to the overall lack of Power Steering information we have. If we get some PS pump removal and installation on an LS 400 we'd be just about complete.

Och

iTrader: (3)

Neo, just to clear things up, once you got rid of the ACV your power steering issues resolved completely?

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

I can't say that was the ultimate culprit -- It was a combination of removing Solenoid, cleaning filter/screen.. Removing ACV, plugging it, (capping vacuum lines) removing return hose.. flushing system with several quarts of ATF.. replacing Return,.. Filling -- Then bleeding for 30minutes. So I can't be sure the ACV solved my problem(s),.. But among the maintenance, and changes I did it works.

The other things were just as important as the ACV imo. No difference without the ACV, and it gives me peace of mind knowing ATF fluid isn't going in my engine, nor can it get in there now.

melissac

Who ever said this was an easy job was terribly WWRROONNGG!! Sure taking off the ACV off is easy, but what the heck do you plug the thing with. Its an automotive thread so only an automotive store would have it, NOPE WRONG! The only thing to fit it is the ACV itself. Didn't weld mine just found a screw with deep threads and a washer about the same size as the cupped end of the ACV. Screwed it in and the threads made grooves in the metal inside, just as good as a weld. Believe me it aint budging. Feels great not smoking up the neighborhood ever time i start it up, or leaving a puddle of fluid under the car everytime it sits a while. The power steering has never felt or sounded as good as it does now. I recommend that everyone do it. Its worth the headache.

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

If I went in a second time to do this.. It would be faster. It took me a few hours to do this.. But I did a complete overhaul on the PS system, not just the ACV.

Anyhow -- The only thing to plug the ACV is not the ACV. The 14x1.5 will work, and has been proven to work. But it IS the wrong thread pattern for the power steering body. I don't advise using it.

However, you can go to a specialty store/shop and get the right thread match to your ACV. Bring the ACV to the store and they can measure and match it perfectly.

My only thing is,.. if you have a bad ACV .. why *NOT* just break the backing off , seal it.. and use it to plug. It makes the most sense, and fits perfectly (obviously).

You don't need a welder to do this. You can do what Melissa did,.. or get some JB weld from walmart or other stores and let it setup in the hole of the ACV. That will work just as good.

I recommend any First gen LS 400 owner do this if they have over 100k on it. Even with a working ACV, it is going to go bad eventually. The difference in ACV and no ACV is almost impossible to recognize. I acutally like the feel of the steering better without the ACV than when it had it.

A stranger to the LS would not know the difference.