Neofate

iTrader: (1)

One pipe is considerably more expensive than the other.. You guessed it, the expensive one is what you want.

http://www.lexus-parts.com/parts_det...id=62621&all=Y

Might help.

Don't get me wrong, I've never done this. So you might be better off replacing both of them and so forth. There are plenty of people on the forum who can tell you much better than I.

Also, it isn't absolutely certain it is your EGR pipe. A likely culprit, but I'm not sure if you are ordering parts or what here

omarg

i know exaust leaks are common for the LS400. Out of 4 ls400's close to me 3 have exhaust leaks. All the leaks are at the conncection between the cat conv and pipe. If you put your had close(when car is just started) you can feel the leak. Thats for my cars anyway.


PLEASE sombody put up a tutorial for the tranny mount please! I have annoying vibrations in drive when stopped.

en11871

Neo,

I just had my mounts changed. I DO have an EGR leak!!! Thanks for all your info. My mechanic told me that it is the gasket though. A faulty gasket is possible right, instead of replacing the entire pipe? PLMK. Thanks.

en11871

Neo,

Can you tell me whether the longer (#1) or shorter (#2) EGR pipe is the one that is damaged caused by the bad mounts? My mechanic told me vaguely because when I returned to pick up my car he has already left. I will have to order the part. PLMK. Thanks.

Chilkoot

A repost of one that I made at the LOC recently:

FWIW, I just had my engine mounts replaced, but have not gotten around to doing the transmission mount myself yet. it is also worth mentioning i broke a couple of sockets trying to use the "starter trick" to get my crank pulley off, so my motor mounts were certainly shot. my observations on a 1993 with 130k:

before motor mounts: i had bad vibration in the steering wheel, shifter **** and particularly seat at ~400RPMs, where my car usually idles. In certain conditions when it idles at 600 the seat vibration went away. Steering wheel and shifter **** have always and still do have a consistent much less pronounced vibration not noticably affected by RPM. Similar seat vibrations in 100 rpms windows every few hundred rpm.

after motor mounts: seat vibration at idle is GONE. I don't feel the engine anymore at all in the cabin below 1500RPMS. at 1800rpms the seat vibration comes back for 100rpm windows every few hundred rpm just as before, still only really noticeable in park or neutral. I suspect that with the engine running at that speed it's transmission vibration I'm feeling in the seat. steering wheel and shifter **** completely unaffected, but the vibration is really very slight.

so my best guess is that if you've got steering wheel, shifter or seat vibrations @ ~1800rpms +/- a few hundred RPMS in park, you should probably start with just the transmission mount and see if that takes care of your issues. If you've got vibration down closer to idle the engine mounts are due.

Yamae

A Japanese Celsior owner had experienced this. The hose was completely cut.

He had been warned by the dealer to replace the engine mounts. But he neglected it and it turned out to be like this. He needed to replace the alternator as well as the hose and the mounts.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

That hose gets ROCK hard over time, so if you do need to hold off on doing mounts you should drain the reservoir and replace that hose. it's a standard size, available at any part's store.

LScowboyLS

the one that cracks is called:
EGR PIPE SUB-ASSEMBLY NO.1 Toyota p/n 25601-50060

it is the longer one (and slightly more expensive one)

and I can assure you, you need engine mounts, all 3 of them, especially the rear (tranny) one