With much work is it worth keeping my '91?
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
With much work is it worth keeping my '91?
I have 180,000 miles on my 1991 LS400. I purchased it a year ago with 153,000 miles.
I would say the engine feels very strong and the transmission is in excellent shape.
Here's the problem.
1. Need new struts (front and rear) = $270 + $500 labor = $770
2. Need (4) new rotors - Brembo = $260 shipped
Mechanic checked it and said the RACK IS LEAKING but "not much".
I do have to put in some p/s fluid about once every two weeks. I replaced the p/s pump about 8 months ago.
3. Need (4) new tires in about 4 months. = $700 including alignment (costco)
4. New Rack & Pinion Assembly = ARC - $350 shipped ($400 labor)
$2,000 parts and labor to keep car going.
Paid $4,000 for car with loan. Still owe $3,000 on it over next 2 1/2 years.
Money is tight although I have a few thousand coming my way within a month.
The thing is, I love my car but I want some of your opinions on whether I should cut my losses, sell it cheap and maybe find one in better shape for $4,000.
Drawback = I still owe $3,000 loan.
Positive - I get maybe $2,000 and use $2,000 of my own money to find a ls400 that doesn't need any immediate work (I guess that's impossible to predict)
Or I plop down $2,000 for repairs and pray nothing else bad happens.
I guess technically it's only $1,300 for repairs and $700 for new tires/alignment. So maybe it's not that bad.
All opinions are welcome.
I would say the engine feels very strong and the transmission is in excellent shape.
Here's the problem.
1. Need new struts (front and rear) = $270 + $500 labor = $770
2. Need (4) new rotors - Brembo = $260 shipped
Mechanic checked it and said the RACK IS LEAKING but "not much".
I do have to put in some p/s fluid about once every two weeks. I replaced the p/s pump about 8 months ago.
3. Need (4) new tires in about 4 months. = $700 including alignment (costco)
4. New Rack & Pinion Assembly = ARC - $350 shipped ($400 labor)
$2,000 parts and labor to keep car going.
Paid $4,000 for car with loan. Still owe $3,000 on it over next 2 1/2 years.
Money is tight although I have a few thousand coming my way within a month.
The thing is, I love my car but I want some of your opinions on whether I should cut my losses, sell it cheap and maybe find one in better shape for $4,000.
Drawback = I still owe $3,000 loan.
Positive - I get maybe $2,000 and use $2,000 of my own money to find a ls400 that doesn't need any immediate work (I guess that's impossible to predict)
Or I plop down $2,000 for repairs and pray nothing else bad happens.
I guess technically it's only $1,300 for repairs and $700 for new tires/alignment. So maybe it's not that bad.
All opinions are welcome.
Last edited by Sportznuts; 01-20-08 at 04:49 AM.
#2
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (3)
$2,000 parts and labor to keep car going.
Paid $4,000 for car with loan. Still owe $3,000 on it over next 2 1/2 years.
Money is tight although I have a few thousand coming my way within a month.
The thing is, I love my car but I want some of your opinions on whether I should cut my losses, sell it cheap and maybe find one in better shape for $4,000.
Drawback = I still owe $3,000 loan.
Positive - I get maybe $2,000 and use $2,000 of my own money to find a ls400 that doesn't need any immediate work (I guess that's impossible to predict)
Or I plop down $2,000 for repairs and pray nothing else bad happens.
I guess technically it's only $1,300 for repairs and $700 for new tires/alignment. So maybe it's not that bad.
All opinions are welcome.
Paid $4,000 for car with loan. Still owe $3,000 on it over next 2 1/2 years.
Money is tight although I have a few thousand coming my way within a month.
The thing is, I love my car but I want some of your opinions on whether I should cut my losses, sell it cheap and maybe find one in better shape for $4,000.
Drawback = I still owe $3,000 loan.
Positive - I get maybe $2,000 and use $2,000 of my own money to find a ls400 that doesn't need any immediate work (I guess that's impossible to predict)
Or I plop down $2,000 for repairs and pray nothing else bad happens.
I guess technically it's only $1,300 for repairs and $700 for new tires/alignment. So maybe it's not that bad.
All opinions are welcome.
As far as finding another LS for $4,000 that wont need any maintenance - good luck. You're talking about 1990-1994 model, which is 14-18 years old. They all going to need something done sooner or later.
#3
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: TX
Posts: 631
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You could do a lot of the work yourself with a little research. I saved a $1000 by replacing the timing belt, water pump, etc... that goes along with the job by doing it myself with my father in law. tooks us about 8 hours total, but well worth the money. Just do some research.
#4
Sport,
I feel your dilema. I go thru the same question quite frequently. The question is, if you cut your losses, are you prepared to deal with them. I want a newer LS myself and have sought out to get it a few times, but I know where you are coming from. Keep in mind that you have an older car, Have a 92 myself with 165K, and it will need maintenance. I had that same discouraging feeling everytime I have to buy parts for my car, and I had most of the same problems that you have had tho most of mine are fixed. I still have to replace tie rod ends, UCA's in the rear, strut bars (front and back) and stabilizer bar bushings in the rear. It can be discouraging but it comes down to just HOW much you love the car, and at what point are YOU prepared to say enough is enough. Thinking at this time to fix what is needed evedn though is running very well,sell to my lil bro(has no car at all, will b ehis first one), and maybe step up a something newer (want an LS430). A newer car, WILL delay some of the repairs you will have to do eventually, and you can get a fresh start at maintenance alot sooner, but there will still be maintenance involved. As some of the others have said, do some research, shop around for parts (there is nothing wrong with EBAY, especially if you are on a budget), find an independant mechanic you can trust to wok on your car or do the work yourself if you are inclined. Better yet find some CL members in your area, who may be able to help you work on the carvery cheaply or for some beer and food. LOL!!! CL bruh's must stick together.
Struts- cost sounds right but labor is high
Rotors- Hit Carson lex for stock replacements, am sure they can get stock OEM cheap ($150 I think)
Rack - keep an eye on it, unfortunately a very common problem with our cars
PS pump - check the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve on the bottom of the pump, even though you
replaced the pump, the valve is not included with the replacement and may still be leaking.
This will account for a good deal of your PS fluid loss.
Tires- are you on stock? $700 sound like the price for Z-rated tires, and top of the line ones too.. I
paid about the same for Stock size Bridgestone Turanzas' and still think I got ripped off. I was in another state and had 2 tires blow out on me, (had really cheap tires on before) so I desperately needed them. Just because the car is rated to handle z-rated tires, doesnt necessarily
mean this is what you have to use. Go with a smaller rating (Y,H) and
the price will be a little cheaper. Just dont play speed racer with them.
This will buy you some time until you can get some better one's (if you choose to do so). Shop
around.
Look at it this way, do the repairs and still have a minimal car payment on your 3K loan. Then once your money comes in pay down the loan and be down with it. Sell it later and get a smaller profit b/c you can justify the pricing (keep your receipts). Someone is more inclined to buy and pay a slightly higher price for the car if you can prove that you have just dumped money into it to make sure that car is god for them. Just don't expect to make too much profit.
orrrrrr,,,,,,,,,
Cut your losses, and now have not 1 but 2 loans to pay on. Positive- new car. Drawback - 2 loans to pay on and you have said that money is tight.
I feel your dilema. I go thru the same question quite frequently. The question is, if you cut your losses, are you prepared to deal with them. I want a newer LS myself and have sought out to get it a few times, but I know where you are coming from. Keep in mind that you have an older car, Have a 92 myself with 165K, and it will need maintenance. I had that same discouraging feeling everytime I have to buy parts for my car, and I had most of the same problems that you have had tho most of mine are fixed. I still have to replace tie rod ends, UCA's in the rear, strut bars (front and back) and stabilizer bar bushings in the rear. It can be discouraging but it comes down to just HOW much you love the car, and at what point are YOU prepared to say enough is enough. Thinking at this time to fix what is needed evedn though is running very well,sell to my lil bro(has no car at all, will b ehis first one), and maybe step up a something newer (want an LS430). A newer car, WILL delay some of the repairs you will have to do eventually, and you can get a fresh start at maintenance alot sooner, but there will still be maintenance involved. As some of the others have said, do some research, shop around for parts (there is nothing wrong with EBAY, especially if you are on a budget), find an independant mechanic you can trust to wok on your car or do the work yourself if you are inclined. Better yet find some CL members in your area, who may be able to help you work on the carvery cheaply or for some beer and food. LOL!!! CL bruh's must stick together.
Struts- cost sounds right but labor is high
Rotors- Hit Carson lex for stock replacements, am sure they can get stock OEM cheap ($150 I think)
Rack - keep an eye on it, unfortunately a very common problem with our cars
PS pump - check the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve on the bottom of the pump, even though you
replaced the pump, the valve is not included with the replacement and may still be leaking.
This will account for a good deal of your PS fluid loss.
Tires- are you on stock? $700 sound like the price for Z-rated tires, and top of the line ones too.. I
paid about the same for Stock size Bridgestone Turanzas' and still think I got ripped off. I was in another state and had 2 tires blow out on me, (had really cheap tires on before) so I desperately needed them. Just because the car is rated to handle z-rated tires, doesnt necessarily
mean this is what you have to use. Go with a smaller rating (Y,H) and
the price will be a little cheaper. Just dont play speed racer with them.
This will buy you some time until you can get some better one's (if you choose to do so). Shop
around.
Look at it this way, do the repairs and still have a minimal car payment on your 3K loan. Then once your money comes in pay down the loan and be down with it. Sell it later and get a smaller profit b/c you can justify the pricing (keep your receipts). Someone is more inclined to buy and pay a slightly higher price for the car if you can prove that you have just dumped money into it to make sure that car is god for them. Just don't expect to make too much profit.
orrrrrr,,,,,,,,,
Cut your losses, and now have not 1 but 2 loans to pay on. Positive- new car. Drawback - 2 loans to pay on and you have said that money is tight.
Last edited by trukn1; 01-20-08 at 08:58 AM.
#5
Hey Sportznutz,
You are getting some great advice in the above posts. I have a 1991 LS as well, with 187,000 miles. For brakes, NAPA Ultra Premium rotors can be had for less than $130 per set and are of great quality. If you go through Carson for the other brake parts, you'll still be under the quote above for 4 Brembos. For your PS issue, even though your rack is leaking slightly, it IMHO would not cause you to have to replenish the fluid level every two weeks. In my case, I removed the Idle Air Control Valve and replaced with a standard oil pan drain plug and gasket (<$2) and I no longer have to continually top off the PS fluid. For tires, I am using the Kumho Solus (albeit "H" rated) tires, less than $200 a set shipped from Tirerack and had them drop shipped to an installer that did the mount and balance. They have been an excellent choice for my use.
Also, in the case of any used car, you already know just about everything that is right and wrong with your current ride, and that probably won't be the case with another car, even an LS. My advice, shop around on replacement parts and labor, prioritize repairs in order of importance/reliability, and know that once these repairs are knocked out, you'll be in great shape for miles to come.
PS - Where in CA are you located?
Jeff
You are getting some great advice in the above posts. I have a 1991 LS as well, with 187,000 miles. For brakes, NAPA Ultra Premium rotors can be had for less than $130 per set and are of great quality. If you go through Carson for the other brake parts, you'll still be under the quote above for 4 Brembos. For your PS issue, even though your rack is leaking slightly, it IMHO would not cause you to have to replenish the fluid level every two weeks. In my case, I removed the Idle Air Control Valve and replaced with a standard oil pan drain plug and gasket (<$2) and I no longer have to continually top off the PS fluid. For tires, I am using the Kumho Solus (albeit "H" rated) tires, less than $200 a set shipped from Tirerack and had them drop shipped to an installer that did the mount and balance. They have been an excellent choice for my use.
Also, in the case of any used car, you already know just about everything that is right and wrong with your current ride, and that probably won't be the case with another car, even an LS. My advice, shop around on replacement parts and labor, prioritize repairs in order of importance/reliability, and know that once these repairs are knocked out, you'll be in great shape for miles to come.
PS - Where in CA are you located?
Jeff
#6
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Ca
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey Sportznutz,
You are getting some great advice in the above posts. I have a 1991 LS as well, with 187,000 miles. For brakes, NAPA Ultra Premium rotors can be had for less than $130 per set and are of great quality. If you go through Carson for the other brake parts, you'll still be under the quote above for 4 Brembos. For your PS issue, even though your rack is leaking slightly, it IMHO would not cause you to have to replenish the fluid level every two weeks. In my case, I removed the Idle Air Control Valve and replaced with a standard oil pan drain plug and gasket (<$2) and I no longer have to continually top off the PS fluid. For tires, I am using the Kumho Solus (albeit "H" rated) tires, less than $200 a set shipped from Tirerack and had them drop shipped to an installer that did the mount and balance. They have been an excellent choice for my use.
Also, in the case of any used car, you already know just about everything that is right and wrong with your current ride, and that probably won't be the case with another car, even an LS. My advice, shop around on replacement parts and labor, prioritize repairs in order of importance/reliability, and know that once these repairs are knocked out, you'll be in great shape for miles to come.
PS - Where in CA are you located?
Jeff
You are getting some great advice in the above posts. I have a 1991 LS as well, with 187,000 miles. For brakes, NAPA Ultra Premium rotors can be had for less than $130 per set and are of great quality. If you go through Carson for the other brake parts, you'll still be under the quote above for 4 Brembos. For your PS issue, even though your rack is leaking slightly, it IMHO would not cause you to have to replenish the fluid level every two weeks. In my case, I removed the Idle Air Control Valve and replaced with a standard oil pan drain plug and gasket (<$2) and I no longer have to continually top off the PS fluid. For tires, I am using the Kumho Solus (albeit "H" rated) tires, less than $200 a set shipped from Tirerack and had them drop shipped to an installer that did the mount and balance. They have been an excellent choice for my use.
Also, in the case of any used car, you already know just about everything that is right and wrong with your current ride, and that probably won't be the case with another car, even an LS. My advice, shop around on replacement parts and labor, prioritize repairs in order of importance/reliability, and know that once these repairs are knocked out, you'll be in great shape for miles to come.
PS - Where in CA are you located?
Jeff
#7
Pole Position
1.5 x 14mm Drain plug w gasket.
I got my michelins for the front for $15 each and Goodyears for rear $10 each craigslist. Slightly used.
Most of the repairs you can do yourself. Some are optional. You usually save money by running the car to the ground. Especially a Lexus. Yours is just broken in.
I got my michelins for the front for $15 each and Goodyears for rear $10 each craigslist. Slightly used.
Most of the repairs you can do yourself. Some are optional. You usually save money by running the car to the ground. Especially a Lexus. Yours is just broken in.
Trending Topics
#8
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Straigh out rip off on the labor - the LS suspension is very easy to work on, and I dont see how the price of $500 is justified. Should be no more than $250.
Well, you could either keep adding the PS fluid, and see how much longer it will get you by, or you can go ahead and replace the rack and pinion, however the labor of $400 is unjustified. Like I said before, the LS suspension is easy to work on, when I had rack and pinion replaced on my old GS300, the labor was around $150.
How do you come up with $700 number? How much is each tire? I know any small tire shop charges $10 to mount and balance each tire, so thats $40 in labor. Alignment on RWD car is usually $40-50, so that's less than $100 in labor for mounting and balancing tires, and alignment. Are you spending $600 on tires? You can pick up a decent set of tires on tirerack.com for $60-80 a piece, assuming you have stock 16" or 15" wheels.
Well, first of all the $2000 price you're getting is as if you went to the lexus dealer. It's not a brand new car, so you should be a little more economical when it comes to repairs. Shop around, dont necessary opt for OEM parts. Try to do some things by yourself - use lexls.com for tutorials.
As far as finding another LS for $4,000 that wont need any maintenance - good luck. You're talking about 1990-1994 model, which is 14-18 years old. They all going to need something done sooner or later.
Well, you could either keep adding the PS fluid, and see how much longer it will get you by, or you can go ahead and replace the rack and pinion, however the labor of $400 is unjustified. Like I said before, the LS suspension is easy to work on, when I had rack and pinion replaced on my old GS300, the labor was around $150.
How do you come up with $700 number? How much is each tire? I know any small tire shop charges $10 to mount and balance each tire, so thats $40 in labor. Alignment on RWD car is usually $40-50, so that's less than $100 in labor for mounting and balancing tires, and alignment. Are you spending $600 on tires? You can pick up a decent set of tires on tirerack.com for $60-80 a piece, assuming you have stock 16" or 15" wheels.
Well, first of all the $2000 price you're getting is as if you went to the lexus dealer. It's not a brand new car, so you should be a little more economical when it comes to repairs. Shop around, dont necessary opt for OEM parts. Try to do some things by yourself - use lexls.com for tutorials.
As far as finding another LS for $4,000 that wont need any maintenance - good luck. You're talking about 1990-1994 model, which is 14-18 years old. They all going to need something done sooner or later.
I took my car to Wheel Works. They said 3 hours labor for the front struts and 3 1/2 hours for the rear. That's something I believe he looked up in his computer but I'm not sure if that's the official amount of time it should take. I can purchase KYB struts online for $270 shipped so these are not OEM.
As far as tires are concerned, that $600 estimate are for Costco's top of the line tire so you're right, I can get a cheaper tire, maybe $80 per tire and $70 for alignment somewhere else.
I think the mechanic said 5 hours labor for the rack & opinion. And I would be purchasing the rack online. I really don't mind adding p/s fluid every once in a while but if I plan to keep my car another 5 years doesn't it make sense to change it?
So none of these parts are OEM, they are all aftermarket parts bought online excluding tires of course.
Great response though. Thanks.
#10
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Sport,
I feel your dilema. I go thru the same question quite frequently. The question is, if you cut your losses, are you prepared to deal with them. I want a newer LS myself and have sought out to get it a few times, but I know where you are coming from. Keep in mind that you have an older car, Have a 92 myself with 165K, and it will need maintenance. I had that same discouraging feeling everytime I have to buy parts for my car, and I had most of the same problems that you have had tho most of mine are fixed. I still have to replace tie rod ends, UCA's in the rear, strut bars (front and back) and stabilizer bar bushings in the rear. It can be discouraging but it comes down to just HOW much you love the car, and at what point are YOU prepared to say enough is enough. Thinking at this time to fix what is needed evedn though is running very well,sell to my lil bro(has no car at all, will b ehis first one), and maybe step up a something newer (want an LS430). A newer car, WILL delay some of the repairs you will have to do eventually, and you can get a fresh start at maintenance alot sooner, but there will still be maintenance involved. As some of the others have said, do some research, shop around for parts (there is nothing wrong with EBAY, especially if you are on a budget), find an independant mechanic you can trust to wok on your car or do the work yourself if you are inclined. Better yet find some CL members in your area, who may be able to help you work on the carvery cheaply or for some beer and food. LOL!!! CL bruh's must stick together.
Struts- cost sounds right but labor is high
Rotors- Hit Carson lex for stock replacements, am sure they can get stock OEM cheap ($150 I think)
Rack - keep an eye on it, unfortunately a very common problem with our cars
PS pump - check the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve on the bottom of the pump, even though you
replaced the pump, the valve is not included with the replacement and may still be leaking.
This will account for a good deal of your PS fluid loss.
Tires- are you on stock? $700 sound like the price for Z-rated tires, and top of the line ones too.. I
paid about the same for Stock size Bridgestone Turanzas' and still think I got ripped off. I was in another state and had 2 tires blow out on me, (had really cheap tires on before) so I desperately needed them. Just because the car is rated to handle z-rated tires, doesnt necessarily
mean this is what you have to use. Go with a smaller rating (Y,H) and
the price will be a little cheaper. Just dont play speed racer with them.
This will buy you some time until you can get some better one's (if you choose to do so). Shop
around.
Look at it this way, do the repairs and still have a minimal car payment on your 3K loan. Then once your money comes in pay down the loan and be down with it. Sell it later and get a smaller profit b/c you can justify the pricing (keep your receipts). Someone is more inclined to buy and pay a slightly higher price for the car if you can prove that you have just dumped money into it to make sure that car is god for them. Just don't expect to make too much profit.
orrrrrr,,,,,,,,,
Cut your losses, and now have not 1 but 2 loans to pay on. Positive- new car. Drawback - 2 loans to pay on and you have said that money is tight.
I feel your dilema. I go thru the same question quite frequently. The question is, if you cut your losses, are you prepared to deal with them. I want a newer LS myself and have sought out to get it a few times, but I know where you are coming from. Keep in mind that you have an older car, Have a 92 myself with 165K, and it will need maintenance. I had that same discouraging feeling everytime I have to buy parts for my car, and I had most of the same problems that you have had tho most of mine are fixed. I still have to replace tie rod ends, UCA's in the rear, strut bars (front and back) and stabilizer bar bushings in the rear. It can be discouraging but it comes down to just HOW much you love the car, and at what point are YOU prepared to say enough is enough. Thinking at this time to fix what is needed evedn though is running very well,sell to my lil bro(has no car at all, will b ehis first one), and maybe step up a something newer (want an LS430). A newer car, WILL delay some of the repairs you will have to do eventually, and you can get a fresh start at maintenance alot sooner, but there will still be maintenance involved. As some of the others have said, do some research, shop around for parts (there is nothing wrong with EBAY, especially if you are on a budget), find an independant mechanic you can trust to wok on your car or do the work yourself if you are inclined. Better yet find some CL members in your area, who may be able to help you work on the carvery cheaply or for some beer and food. LOL!!! CL bruh's must stick together.
Struts- cost sounds right but labor is high
Rotors- Hit Carson lex for stock replacements, am sure they can get stock OEM cheap ($150 I think)
Rack - keep an eye on it, unfortunately a very common problem with our cars
PS pump - check the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve on the bottom of the pump, even though you
replaced the pump, the valve is not included with the replacement and may still be leaking.
This will account for a good deal of your PS fluid loss.
Tires- are you on stock? $700 sound like the price for Z-rated tires, and top of the line ones too.. I
paid about the same for Stock size Bridgestone Turanzas' and still think I got ripped off. I was in another state and had 2 tires blow out on me, (had really cheap tires on before) so I desperately needed them. Just because the car is rated to handle z-rated tires, doesnt necessarily
mean this is what you have to use. Go with a smaller rating (Y,H) and
the price will be a little cheaper. Just dont play speed racer with them.
This will buy you some time until you can get some better one's (if you choose to do so). Shop
around.
Look at it this way, do the repairs and still have a minimal car payment on your 3K loan. Then once your money comes in pay down the loan and be down with it. Sell it later and get a smaller profit b/c you can justify the pricing (keep your receipts). Someone is more inclined to buy and pay a slightly higher price for the car if you can prove that you have just dumped money into it to make sure that car is god for them. Just don't expect to make too much profit.
orrrrrr,,,,,,,,,
Cut your losses, and now have not 1 but 2 loans to pay on. Positive- new car. Drawback - 2 loans to pay on and you have said that money is tight.
After reading two responses I'm convinced to put money back into car. Like you said, it comes down to how much I love this car. And I LOVE THIS CAR!!:thumbup
Thanks so much.
I will definitely try to cut more costs on parts, funny about idle control valve, I mentioned that as a possibility of fluid loss and their parts manager said "it had nothing to do with it". Maybe I should get it checked by a front end shop who'll know more about my car.
Take care.
#11
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Hey Sportznutz,
You are getting some great advice in the above posts. I have a 1991 LS as well, with 187,000 miles. For brakes, NAPA Ultra Premium rotors can be had for less than $130 per set and are of great quality. If you go through Carson for the other brake parts, you'll still be under the quote above for 4 Brembos. For your PS issue, even though your rack is leaking slightly, it IMHO would not cause you to have to replenish the fluid level every two weeks. In my case, I removed the Idle Air Control Valve and replaced with a standard oil pan drain plug and gasket (<$2) and I no longer have to continually top off the PS fluid. For tires, I am using the Kumho Solus (albeit "H" rated) tires, less than $200 a set shipped from Tirerack and had them drop shipped to an installer that did the mount and balance. They have been an excellent choice for my use.
Also, in the case of any used car, you already know just about everything that is right and wrong with your current ride, and that probably won't be the case with another car, even an LS. My advice, shop around on replacement parts and labor, prioritize repairs in order of importance/reliability, and know that once these repairs are knocked out, you'll be in great shape for miles to come.
PS - Where in CA are you located?
Jeff
You are getting some great advice in the above posts. I have a 1991 LS as well, with 187,000 miles. For brakes, NAPA Ultra Premium rotors can be had for less than $130 per set and are of great quality. If you go through Carson for the other brake parts, you'll still be under the quote above for 4 Brembos. For your PS issue, even though your rack is leaking slightly, it IMHO would not cause you to have to replenish the fluid level every two weeks. In my case, I removed the Idle Air Control Valve and replaced with a standard oil pan drain plug and gasket (<$2) and I no longer have to continually top off the PS fluid. For tires, I am using the Kumho Solus (albeit "H" rated) tires, less than $200 a set shipped from Tirerack and had them drop shipped to an installer that did the mount and balance. They have been an excellent choice for my use.
Also, in the case of any used car, you already know just about everything that is right and wrong with your current ride, and that probably won't be the case with another car, even an LS. My advice, shop around on replacement parts and labor, prioritize repairs in order of importance/reliability, and know that once these repairs are knocked out, you'll be in great shape for miles to come.
PS - Where in CA are you located?
Jeff
And $200 a set from Tirerack sounds mighty good. Wow, you guys might save me $1,000 when this is all said and done.
I live in Rohnert Park, CA. Maybe an hour drive north of San Francisco.
Thank you much for your help.
#13
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: UK & NZ
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Keep in mind that you have an older car, Have a 92 myself with 165K, and it will need maintenance.
A newer car, WILL delay some of the repairs you will have to do eventually, and you can get a fresh start at maintenance alot sooner, but there will still be maintenance involved.
A newer car, WILL delay some of the repairs you will have to do eventually, and you can get a fresh start at maintenance alot sooner, but there will still be maintenance involved.