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The First Gen Power Steering Bible

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Old 04-25-07, 08:01 PM   #16
steph
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i just tried removing the solenoid from the rack but its made out of a really soft metal, when i tried using a screwdriver and hammer it wouldnt budge is it reverse thread? i can't seem to budge it
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Old 07-02-07, 08:59 PM   #17
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i changed my power steering pump and it still takes effort to turn the wheel, does this mean my last problem could be a bad rack? I have cleaned the solenoid, replaced ps ecu, replaced pump with the idle up valve and it is a little better but not what it should be.
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Old 10-12-07, 09:45 AM   #18
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First off, this thread is really great .

The only thing we're lacking is info on how to actually remove the pump, and possibly the high pressure hose. It would be great if those who have replaced these items themselves would post instructions or tips. Those 4 bolts seem impossible to reach!
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Old 10-16-07, 08:09 PM   #19
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i thought i would update this. I finally fixed the steering in my lex. the rack and pinion was bad. I got a good used one, and now it works perfect. If anyone else needs one i have an extra one.
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Old 10-28-07, 04:19 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SW07ES View Post
Is the RED arrow or GREEN arrow the correct place to pound?
Pound on the RED arrow side (think lefty-loosey) to loosen the solenoid enough to remove it.

Tips for cleaning the solenoid: brake cleaner combined with a toothbrush (preferably your roommate's)...comes clean really quick.
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Old 10-31-07, 12:42 AM   #21
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Ok guys, I just replaced the air control valve on my car, and I noticed a small brass piston with 2 Teflon or Viton bands and a circlip on it fell on the ground. Is that a critical part?
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Old 11-07-07, 11:22 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nthach View Post
Ok guys, I just replaced the air control valve on my car, and I noticed a small brass piston with 2 Teflon or Viton bands and a circlip on it fell on the ground. Is that a critical part?

post a pic please
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Old 11-07-07, 11:35 AM   #23
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Yes, it prevents fluid from getting into the intake. I think that's how it works. Otherwise, you can use a plug in place of that valve.
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Old 11-19-07, 08:12 PM   #24
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Hello. I am wondering - does the 95-97s have these common steering issues as well? Thanks.
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Old 01-19-08, 04:12 PM   #25
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Can't you just disconnect the vaccuum lines from the valve, and cap the valve off? Then cap off the one on the intake plenum and throttle body? Would fluid actually come out of the valve, even when no vaccuum is applied to it? Also where exactly is the solenoid located?
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Old 01-19-08, 04:38 PM   #26
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If you cap the lines yes, you have stopped the vacuum. But you will still have a leak from the valve. How much? don't know.

Its the O-rings that go bad just like the O-rings on the pump and reservoir.

cap it with the bolt I was talking about and cap the lines and you'll be good.

Quote:
Where is it?
Looking at the car from the front, on the left side of the engine, the valve is on the back side of the pump, pointing toward the right rear tire.
It is easier to change it from the bottom with a wrench. Some say from the top. I say bottom, whatever. Suck out the fluid first or be ready to catch some of it when you do remove it.

I have had a chat with a really good mechanic lately and he doesn't even bother capping. He buys a rebuild gasket kit for the pump, changes a few O-rings and the small o-rings on the valve and puts it all back together.

might be an avenue for us all to look at.
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Old 01-19-08, 08:18 PM   #27
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Thanks for the reply. I know where the valve is, I need to know where the solenoid is. By the way, what color is the Toyota fluid? I know Dex 3 is red, but my fluid is gold/brown. I am wondering if this is Toyota fluid.
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Old 01-27-08, 08:37 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. LS400 View Post
I I actually just bought a 93 LS just recently and it had the problem of smoking at start up and using power steering fluid.
I just bought a '93 LS400 as well, same exact issue.

This thread is very helpful. Thanks, Suneet!
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Old 01-28-08, 12:17 PM   #29
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Good info guys..
I had to replace my PS pump in 2001, my 1991 LS has 112K miles on it.. It ruined the alternator.. I had the dealer replace and it was like $850 back then. But it works great.. ANd my new alt is still clean.....
I wonder if the LS has higher pressure causing these pumps to fail, I mean as easy as the wheel is to turn, I wonder if that is the cause for problems/?? I wish they would use the old PS pumps that were metal they have on vans/trucks, those never go bad....

These plastic saginal pumps just seem to last a little over 100k and they start leaking..
Also my rack leaks a little bit.. I add a little fluid about once a year...Also my high pressure hose is a little wet... maybe the next pump That stuff will get replaced..LOL..

Good info.
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Old 01-28-08, 01:28 PM   #30
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Default Help w/ locating 2 vacuum lines to plug/picture

Ok , I removed the valve and plugged it. Although the plug size that was recommended did not screw in all the way, it was very tight sealed and is not leaking. The car seems to be running fine now. My car, 1990 Ls400 never had the white smoke problem. Can someone help me with which vacuum lines to plug? and is this necessary? A picture would be very helpful. Thank you.
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Old 01-28-08, 01:28 PM
 
 
 
 
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1996, air, alternator, battery, bible, control, filter, flickers, gs300, leak, lexus, light, ls400, power, procedure, replacement, solenoid, steering, valve

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